CITRUS FRUITS

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXIX, Issue 21254, 6 August 1932, Page 8 (Supplement)

CITRUS FRUITS

DIRECTIONS FOR PLANTING localities at all subject to severe frosts, toward the end of the present and throughout the succeeding month is the safest time to plant out lemon and other citrus fruits. In seasons such as the present it is far safer to defer planting until there is more warmth in the soil, when, by giving a little extra care in preparing the soil, and in their after treatment, greater success will be secured. If planted in well-prepared ground, and when there is a fair degree of warmth in the soil, root action is naturally more rapid, and the plants soon become well established. It does not necessarily follow however, even under the most favourable conditions that much new growth will bo made during th 0 early summer, as the peculiarity of most newly planted citrus fruits is that though healthy root action is taking place, the plants often remain almost stationary until late in the summer, when they invariably start to make healthy, vigorous growth. If the plants are kept well mulched during the summer so that tho moisture is retained at the roots, earlier growth is often obtained. PREPARATION OF SOIL In planting lemons, or any of tho citrus family it is imperative to tiavo the soil thoroughly prepared beforehand, and if the subsoil is of a stiff clayey naturo, thorough drainage must bo provided, for while a reasonable degree of moisture is essential to ensure healthy growth, there must not bo an excess, or failure is almost certain. When planted in localities subject to late frosts, some protection should be given until the plants become established and hardened to tho locality in which they aro planted. All citrus fruits thrive best when planted in soir that has previously been well worked. As the plants are naturally surface rooting a wide hole should bo dug, and after seeing that free drainage is provided, refill the hol 0 with tho best soil obtainable. If the soil is of a stiff nature, it is not advisable to dig or stir beyond the depth of the surface soil, for while deep cultivation is advisable if th 0 soil is of a deep, free, open nature, to penetrate into clay is almost certain to result in water accumulating in the bottom of the hole unless provision is made to remove it. SHALLOW PLANTING Do not plant too deeply in the soil, as it is the cause of many failures. Most raisers of citrus fruits, bud or graft the plants sufficiently high from the ground to admit of their being planted 60 that the points of union, where th e bud or graft has becln inserted, can be kept well above tho soil. In planting, after cutting back any roots damaged in lifting, or any forming a taproot, spread the roots out level with the surface, so that when the roots are covered a slight monnd is formed. This system of planting is especially necessary in land of a stiff or retentive nature, or that is inclined to become sodden with moisture. MULCHING FOR SMALL FRUITS In the cultivation of the soil around small fruits, such as gooseberries, currants, loganberries and similar fruiting plants, special care is necessary not to disturb the ground too deeply. These are naturally surface-rooting plants, and deep digging or hoeing is liable to injure the roots and impair their cropping capabilities. Light hoeing sufficient to clean the ground of all weeds and applying a good mulch m the best method of treatment for thes« plants. The mulch need not be applied until next month, as the main object, apart from stimulating growth, is to retain tho necessary moisture at the roots when the plants are in flower, and until the fruit is set. Good, fresh stable manure, when obtainable, is best for this purpose, as it not only provides the necessary mulch, but mosfc of the manurial properties are conveyed to the roots by the spring rains, which stimulates root growth. One of the chief causes of failure, particularly in Auckland gardens, is that dry weather often sets in just at the time that the plants aro in flower, and unless the roots are protected by a good mulch, the flowers drop off instead of setting fruits. TO CORRESPONDENTS T. 0., Morrinsville.—Turf from a rich pasture where a drain is beinp; due, if Btacked in heaps, should bo sufficiently decomposed fdr top-dressing the lawn next autumn. " Shrub," 6mokoroa,—The shrub is Carmichaelia Australis, a uniaue New Zealand species, with quite flat bronchlets and distinct alternate notches. It is common on the East Coast. " Anxious to Know," Remuera.—Miorolaema etipoides is a native grass that in recommendod as a lawn grass. It succeeds well under the shade of trees and grows on poor banks. 71 good system of introducing it into the lawn is to obtain roots or clumps and spade it in nt equal distances apart. . " Parsnip," Putaruru.—The lumps on the fibrous roots of parsnip aro a form of clubroot, caused by on inßect. The heavily manuring with decomposed cowynrd manure would no doubt account for the trouble both in the flower and kitchen garden. To counteract the clubbing, apply a libernl dressing of lime and soot or sulphate of ammonia. Plant your vegetables in fresh land if possible. " Cabbage," Kaeo.'—Tho wet season and heavily manuring is probably tho cause of the outer leaves of cabbago parting from tho etem and assuming a withered appearanco. Although snails, slugs and woodlice abound, they would not causo tho trouble. As you suggest allowing ducks the run oI this plot, they would soon lessen tho insects, but they would also attack the cabbages. Allow them a free run for n.n hour or so in the early morning. " Curiouß,'' Basset Road.—Waitzia aurea, tho golden-yellow flower heads tinged with brown, are special favourites for everlasting bouquets. The flower heads are produced in terminal corymbs. It is a native of Australia and grows from Ift. to 2ft. high. This useful plant is but littlo known to florists excepting in imported everlnsting flowers. Victoria regia, the Royal or Queen Victoria's waterlily, is ouo of tho most, remarkable productions of tho vegetable kingdom. It would require artificial-heated water to grow it here. " Interested," Remuera. —Vinca rosea is the Madagaseor periwinkle, a very pretty greenhouse plant, with rose-coloured or whito flowers with a pink cyo. Propagation cuttings of the young shoots taken off 111 tho spring and inserted in sandy loam eon soon Btriko. To make tho plants bushy, pinch out tho tops. The flowers are borne on the new shoots. I am not euro whether plants of this pretty greenhouse plant ore obtainable locally. Tropaeolum speciosum. the beautiful flame-flowered nasturtium, requires a moist and shaded position. It is well known in Dunedin. where you have seen it in the fullest perfection.- It has been frequently tried hero without success. C.8., Opotiki.—Your inquiry apparently refers to one vine only. It is certainly difficult to account for tho vine fruiting only on tho western and not on tho northern side, for, if the growth is of equal strength and the wood is well ripened, one would expect the opposite results. Tho method of pruning may havo had something to do with the failure. In pruning cut the laterals back to within two of the strongest buds formed at the baso of each lateral. If both buds grow and are not required, one can always be shortened back or removed ofter the strongest and most promising bunch of fruit is seen. A liberal dressing of bono manure is the best and most lasting materiol to apply in soils of the nature you mention. The Maori method_ of planting kumara is a safe one to practice, as most Maoris are experts. The cutting back of the tons, however. is rarely practised unless when tho plants ore making exceptionally vigorous growth. Occasionally lifting tho runners to prevent them rooting into the soil is important, or they otherwise check the development of the tubers. KIPOS, <