SUCCESS IN HIMALAYA.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXVII, Issue 20639, 11 August 1930, Page 11

SUCCESS IN HIMALAYA.

INTERNATIONAL EFFORT. JONSONG SUMMIT REACHED. ASCENT BY TWO PARTIES. A cable message published on June 23 recorded the =ucce3s of the international Himalayan expedition—following the abandonment of the effort lo scale Kauehenjunga—in reaching the summit of Jonsong Peak, 2-1,340 ft. in height. the highest mountain upon which the foot of limn has ever been Bet. The first party, contesting of Ilerr 11. Hoerlin (Germany), c.nd Herr E. Schneider (Austria), reached the summit on June 3, and on June S. the summit was again reached by the lender of ( he party, Professor G. O Ji.vlirenfurth (Germany). Mr. M. Kurtz. (Switzerland). Herr U. Wicland (Germany) and Mr. h. b. Smith (Britain), and two porters. The first party, Hoerlin, Schneider, Wood-Johnson and Smythe, left the base camp on May 30, ascending the south siido of Lhonak Glacier. Camp One was pitched on a stony ridge separating the north and south Lhonak Glaciers. From this point there was a fine view down tha Lhonak Valley, with its great terrace of brown glacier debris, which Dyhrenfurth says proves without doubt the existence of a former ice age when an enormous glacier filled this valley, extending far down to the plains. As the sun set the whole of this wonderful and practically, unknown valley, visited only by Kellas, was filled with an indescribable colour, its brown earth golden; its far depths purple; its fantastic ice pinnacles bloodtipped like the spears of warring Titans. The following day the party left in good weather and ascended the northern Lhonak Glacier, following the Kellas route. Horrible snow was encountered, bearing the climber for a few steps, J hen collapsing and letting him sink into it up to the thighs or waist. Despite snow racquettes it was very hard work for laden coolies, but they struggled gallantly on. Then the weather broke and snow showers flying up from the south seemed to promise the monsoon. Camp at 20,000 Feet. Camp Two was pitched at 20,000 ft. in the shelter of a solid ice wall beneath the col reached by Kellas. To tho north of this col rise 3 a fine peak about 22,000 ft., which the expedition named Kellas Peak, while the col was named Kellas Col, in honour of the great Himalayan mountaineer, who, without any European companion, did magnificent work in the Himalaya, particularly in finding the route to this col. The indefatigable Schneider went on alone, prospecting the way, and returned with a hopeful report, but that crevasses were dangerously concealed and that he fell into one. That night desultory snowstorms developed into a fullfledged blizzard. Listening to the lash of snow on the tent roof is not inspiring. It seems possessed of almost personal malevolence, and we lay all next day in our sleeping bags uncomfortably conscious that supplies allowed for little inaction. A View of Everest. On June 2 the weather cleared and the party ascended the easy snow slopes to the north-west ridge, passing treacherous concealed crevasses. From the ridge was a superb view of Everest and Makalu with a host of unknown peaks in Nepal, while to the west of Jonsong Peak a great glacier stretched away at our feet toward the Tibetan frontier. It was interesting to watch a ceaseless battle between the monsoon winds and the dry, c6ld north winds from the Tibetan plains. Dense cumuli covered tho Teesta and Arun Valleys, while south-east a woolly carpet told of rains raging over the Bengal plain and the southern side of Kanchenjunga. The cloudy battalions struggled to invade Tibet, but always the north wind triumphed, routing them all save a few platoons that marched slowly over thoso brown, arid plains. After two steep slopes, requiring stepcutting, tho ridge narrowed, rising to a sharp ice summit, beyond which the ridge became knife-like and decorated with cornices, finally falling to the glacier leading easily up to the foot of the final slopes of Jonsong Peak. It was hazardous to get the porters along the ridge and to establish the final camp so high, as the ridge was a first-class Alpine difficulty, while a direct descent of 600 ft. of ice slope to the glacier was also formidable, and would require fixed ropes for porters, and we had not enough rope. - Provisions and fuel running low, too, we must camp on the ridge and rush the peak in one day. Wild Night of Storm. As the sun set the wind arose, howling across the ridge and driving clouds of snow which penetrated into the tents as we painfully cooked a cheerless supper with wet fuel, but we forgave the weather as we peered out at the glories of sunset seen over 21,000 ft., with Everest rising solitary and majestically over 50 miles away. We could clearly distinguish the North Col and the weary, East Ridge, up which the expedition fought its way. As we gazed at the final cone beneath which high hopes were shattered we thought of Mallory and Irvine. Their last resting place was surely one to. be envied. A wild night followed. It was bitterly cold, with 50deg. of frost, and the wind striving to hurl the encampment from the ridge. An early start was impossible, but the wind moderated as 'the sun gained power, and at 9 o'clock we were off in two parties, Hoerlin and Schneider on one rope, and Wood-JohnsOn and Smythe on the other. Schneider, who throughout the climb had led with great skill, sparing himself no work, went ahead.