TREE PLANTING.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXVII, Issue 20639, 11 August 1930, Page 3

TREE PLANTING.

PLANTATIONS FOR FARMERS.

HOW TO SECURE SHELTER. BY H.B.T. Although some districts in New Zealand are comparatively well planted with imported varieties of trees, there is still considerable room for improvement. Especially does this apply to farming land where plantations can be found only near the homesteads, apparently being considered necessary to shelter the human beings who have also substantial homes to protect them from the elements. If shelter from winds is generally considered necessary and is appreciated about tho homestead, it should not require much logical reasoning to arrive at the conclusion that plantations judiciously distributed about the farm at points where they would afford stock or crops protection from the prevailing winds, would be a good investment.

The amount of food which an animal requires for maintenance is largely controlled by the expenditure of this nourishment in the production of body heat. Apart from the cost of fencing to protect the young plantation from stock, tree planting on the farm need not be an expensive business. Seedlings of most of the popular shelter and timber trees can easily be grown in boxes or in a sheltered nursery.

Conditions were so dry during and pre ceding May and June—tlio usual plant ing months —that the work has been delayed this vcar. If, however, any tree planting is to bo done the work should be put in hand as soon as the soil is sufficiently moist to give the young plants a chance of survival.

Regarding the best distances apart to plant trees, this again depends largely on the object of the plantation. When planting for the production of timbers the trees should not bo more than six to eight feet apart each way, as this induces upright growth with few, if any lower branches. If shelter close to the ground is desired this can best be attained by planting the tiees from 15 to 16 feet apart to allow room for branching. A combined timber and break-wind plantation can sometimes be obtained by spacing the trees in the central rows six to eight feet apart, while the two outside rows—usually of macrocarpa or some other species of lowbranching habit—are spaced 16 feet apart. Securing Early Results. Where the plantation is to be only one or two rows wide, and it is desired to provide shelter at as early a date as possible, this can best be achieved by planting the trees six to eight feet apart. Later, when they are partially grown, every alternate tree can be cut out and the remaining trees topped at the same time to force rapid lateral growth. Poplars, when grown in a single line for shelter, should be spaced from four to six feet, and as these are practically always grown liko willows, from poles or cuttings six to ten feet in height above the ground, shelter from them can be secured on suitable country in a very short time.

There are various approved methods of planting out seedlings or young stock from the nursery. At one time it was thought necessary to dig quite an extensive hole, work tho earth up in this well, and possibly add some manure. Apart from the considerable labour involved in this method, it lias been found to havo several serious disadvantages over more modern and cheaper methods. The round holo in which the tree was planted, unless in very open soil, acted as a trap for rainwater and during a wet spring the young tree would be drowned in the mud that formed about its roots.

Tree planting is nowadays done either with a narrow-bladed spade or with a grubber. Willi the former there are several methods of opening the soil to receive the tree roots, the simplest being a single cut with the spade blade, which is widened sufficiently to admit the roots and then closed either by trampling with the heel or by putting the spade blade into the ground again, some three inches away from a parallel to the original cut, and by forcing the intervening soil over, pack it firmly around the roots Planting in a Furrow.

Another method is to cut a V or L, holding the spado blade upright with the back away from you. The sod between the two cuts is turned back at the second cut sufficiently to allow the young plant to be set upright in the angle, and tho sod is then pressed back firmly by treading with the heel. On moderately level grass country where a plough can be used, and the trees are to be planted in straight lines, it is a good plan to plough a light, single furrow on the line and plant the trees in the bottom of this.

Planting in the furrow may be done either with the spade, as previously described, or with a grubber. With the latter the blade should be about nine to ten inches long and four inches wide The blade is driven into the ground where tho tree is to bo planted to its full depth if possible, keeping tho cut as nearly as possible perpendicular. The earth is levered out by pulling the handle upward. and unless the hole requires further deepening by a second blow, the tree is planted against an upright side or end and the soil pressed firmly back round the roots with tho heel.

If tho space between tho rows is to he cultivated and used, as previously suggested, for growing some root crops, the initial ploughing should be done toward the trees, leaving the open furrow down the centre between the rows Care must be exercised when striking out not to throw the furrow on to the trees, hut if properly placed tho two furrows, one on each side, will afford considerable protection from wind.