THRILLS ON MOUNTAIN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXVII, Issue 20521, 24 March 1930, Page II

THRILLS ON MOUNTAIN.

CLIMBERS IN THE 'ALPS. Ascent of mount cook* HAZARDOUS ICE BRIDGE CHECKED BY AVALANCHE. / The only successful ascent so far this season of New Zealand's proudest alpine peait. Mount Cook, was made a few days ago by a party of four men after a trip which their experiences made extremely memorable for them. The men who accomplished the feat are Messrs. A. ShanfJ, of Island Hills, Culverden, K. Parker, of Dunedin, Chief Guide V. Williams and Guide Bowie, from the Hermitage. Mr.' Shand, who has spent several years mountaineering in many parts of the Southern Alps, described the conquest of the tallest peak of the Alps as a'most pleasant and fortunate outing, for on the day when the ascent was made a solid frost on the ice and snow was followed by a perfect morning. The first attempt was made from the Haast Hut. When almost two-thirds of the climb were over, and the foot of the summit rocks reached, a severe alpine storm' arose, forcing the men to return to the hut. "We realised what a real alpine storm was like," said Mr. Shand, "for by the timo we reached the Haast Hut again we were well cut about and fatigued. The storm did not abate for five days, all of which we spent in the hut, Ijeing unable to venture far afield.". Difficulties at the Summit. Then in splendid weather conditions, with Guides Williams and Bowie at the extremities of the rope, the party left the hut &i 3.30 a.m., travelling via the Linda Glacier. The ascent was uneventful, except' that the ice cap at the summit presented difficulties, where a depth of soft snow frequently broken by deep crevasses hindered progress, this stage of the journey taking six hours to complete. The summit rocks,, usually covered with thin ice, and very dangerous, were practically/ clear of it, a fortunate thing for the climbers. The summit was reached by 12.45 p.m.—just over nine hours' climbing, and a rest was made for a while.

The return journey was not without its thrills, for in the first place a hurried trip had to be made to cross the head of the Linda Glacier before two ice bridges, which were shrinking when the party went up, collapsed. Only one was left when the men reached the place, this being only about 4in. through in the centre and crossing a deep crevass, 10ft. wide. Guide Williams was the first to try it, while the rest of the party dug themselves well into the slope in case the, ice would not .support the guide's weight.# , Tribute to Chief Guide.

"Guide Williams' nerve was great," Mr. Shand said. "When he reached the middle, he stopped, looked round, and passed,.a humorous remark about a block of ice breaking off, then carried on to the other side without a falter. Parker and I followed, the men on each side keeping the rope well strained. Bowie was last, the ice bridge cracking ominously as he stepped off it. We were very thankful to be across. "Further down we were held in check for a few minutes by Guide Williams, waiting for an avalanche to fall off the Silverhorn. Parker and X both marvelled at his judgment, for within a short time tons of rock, ice and snow hurtled into the glacier below. The view we got when we reached the top of that peak was wonderful. The ice ridge linking up Silverhorn and Mount Tasman is considered the finest in the world. It has been traversed only once, by Marcel Kurz and H. E. L. Porter, two noted alpinists. The Haast Hut was reached again by 9.30 p.m. after an 18hour day." The pleasure of the climb, Mr. Shand stated, was due largely to the confidence the two men had acquired in the guides, who, in Mr. Shand's opinion, are two expert and first-class climbers.