LONG-SUFFERING WOMEN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXVI, Issue 20372, 28 September 1929, Page 6 (Supplement)

LONG-SUFFERING WOMEN.

SHORT-COATED ENSEMBLES. WATER-PROOFED TWEEDS. | SPECIAL TO N.Z. lIEftAt.D. —COPYUIOfIT. ) . LONDON, August ll'>. Should the weather this coming winter prove as seveio as last, women look liko suffering agonies of cold in their efforts to follow fashion. Not only evening ensembles Imt the now afternoon dresses tiavo been designed for a milder climate than we ever enjoy in these northern countries. Three-quarter length fur coats are to he worn over dresses of velvet satin or cloth to tone with the fur of the, coats, and little fur caps to match. 'lbis fashion leaves the knees protected only by a comparatively light-weight dress, so that we look like having hot heads and cohl feet! The length of the coat, whether three quarter or seven-eighths length, distinguishes tho new ensembles from any we have had before. It looks as though full-length coats, so useful for covering any odd frock, will have a demode air ibis season. Thus does Pamo Fashion make women increasingly extravagant. If one chooses an odd length coat the skirt must tone in colour, even if it does not match in materials; or, at least, it must appear to bo a definite part of tho scheme

Again, the old comfortable arrangemen? of cardigan, skirt, and jersev is i/ono, except as a garment in which to d 1 ay games. In its place we have a dress with a jacket that is three-quarters or seven-eighths length. Iho mateiial used for the dross is a fine tweed or tweed jersev. so supple that the frock can he tucked and strapped as though it were made of crepe de chine, and so thin that it conveys no feeling of clumsi noss or stuffiness. Many of tlieso cloth frocks—which really are frocks, nut compromises like the 'old coat frock—have lingerie collar and cuffs. Over (ho dress is the straight coat, ending at the knee or above it. This is usnallv made in a heavier tweed, but of the same pattern as the frock. One designer uses a darker tweed for theso jacket coals, lining them with tho same tweed as the frock A new departure in these materials is if jersey woven to exactly match a tweed Thus, vou may have a tweed skirt with a jersey top. which looks as though it was made of one piece of material. I am sending you sketches of two fvpos of ensembles, both of which hail from Paris, and the morning ensemble shows a coat dress of diagonal tweed in brown and beige, with blouse top and coat lining of sued.? jersev. Tho afternoon coat is of chocolate brown velvet wiUi very deep cuffs and nrld shaocd collar and rovers of Russian dyed sable. It was worn over a frock of dark brown satin, nod the beret tuque was mounted on a tight-fitting head band "losolv embroidered >n cold and brown I threads

This desicrn would also make an ex cellent evening coat in lame or brocade, trimmed with fur, for short evening coa's liavo become intensely smart with billowy tulle or chiffon frocks. Leather coats grow more beautiful each season, and thev till so many occasions that one wonders how women ever managed before the days of these softly 'tailored, beautifully' dyed leather garments. Reversible Couts, For people who cannot afford two or more fur coats, and several tweed coats, ho coat that combines tweed and leather is a perfect godsend. Tho latest idea is to combino tho two fahrics in one coat, in such a manner • hat one may walk in tweed one flay ind in leather tho next without having different coats: but one that is completely reversible. One can cheerfully set out for a long run in an open car knowing 'hat the leather surface of the coat will keep out that wind and rain while tho rweed limn? and woolly garments worn beneath will supply (ho warmth. Leather is dyed so many beautiful shades that it is possible to choose a coat which will tone with many other items in one's wardrobe; but for a long coat, the darker and moro neutral shades are most appropriate. A short roat of cherry rod, jade green, or light h'tie leather is very attractive with a well-cut voollen skirl that tones. The best typos of leather coats are usually cut "very simply with s':rn lines and belted. On the other hand, (weed r-oa's are becoming much more trimmed, and fur linings, fur collars anil cuffs are certainly more general on this type of coat than they liavo been for many seasons.

One fur lined tv.eed coat seen this week looked as slim as nnv of the summer models, and one does not suspect 'he warm coney ftir lining until it is thrown open in front. Another innovation this season which will please the sportswomen who have irdered tweeds for shooting parties in the north is a new process by which all tweeds and woollens are waterproofed without the aid of rubber. And en tirelv British manufacture. These new weather protected materials are soft,, liuht, nnrl supple, arid ouite impossible lo detect frorn anv other variety of woollens. So now with 'he usual contrariness of things, wo may expect an extra fine season.