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THE VEGETABLE GARDEN.

CULTIVATION OF THE SOIL.

In the cultivation of spring and summer crops, whether vegetables or other varieties, the success attained depends in a very great measure upon the method of culture adopted. Not only docs the ground for sowing or planting require to be deeply broken up and manured, but from the time the plants are, raised until ready for use, frequent cultivation or stirring of- the soil is necessary. Even the most inexperienced grower cannot fail to notice the contrast in the growth of plants when the soil is kept occasionally stirred, with those growing in a hard, unbroken surface, and deprived, iu a great measure, oE the elements that are so essential to healthy root growth. To keep the soil frequently stirred is to give tho plants a better chance to make good root action. This is best done either by light digging or tho free tiso of the hoe between tho crops. Frequently stirring the soil, apart from being a means of keeping down weeds, creates a fine loose surface that sets as a mulch, and assists to supply the roots with moisture during dry weather. . Although up to the present there has been no lack of moisture in the soil, it is surprising what a few dry days or a week of harsh, drying wind, will do in drying up the ground. By the free use of" the hoe the surface soon becomes broken up into fine particles, which lie close together. Although the soil may be quite dry as far as the hoe penetrates, yet beyond that depth the-soil will be "found to retain moisture.

By breaking up the ground as deeply as the hoe will go, air is admitted to sweeten the soil. Warm rains have a chance to penetrate to the roots, instead of running off the ground as is often the case where a hard puddled surface is allowed to remain unbroken. •

ADVANTAGES OF MULCBING. Mulching, where practicable, is, of course, the best method ot treating such crops as peas, beans, lettuce, rhubarb, cucumbers, marrows, and others that ai> quickly affected by a dry spell. A good mulch is preferable to artificial watering, as frequent applications from an artificial source often have a hardening effect upon the soil, and unless tho surface is again broken up tho practice is not productive of the good results expected. Too often, however, simplysprinkling instead of soaking the soil is done, with the result that the roots are induced to come to the surface, when they soon suffer from the least neglect. In" mulching, the material should be applied while the ground is moist. Evaporation will then be checked, and sufficient moisture retained to ensure healthy growth. As the season advances, increasing heat and dryer weather must naturally be expected, so that, in preparing the ground for sowing or planting, special preparation must be made for the roots of the crops to bo well nourished. For sowing late peas and beans a good plan is to open trenches and place in a good layer of well-decomposed manure, or other vegetable matter. Grass, clippings, if partially rotted, are excellent for the purpose. In drawing the drills, make them deep enough so that after the seeds arc covered the drills are slightlv below the surrounding surface. This will be filled up as soon as the plants are sufficiently advanced for earthing.

CONTINUITY OF SUPPLY. Peas' are the most esteemed of spring and early summer vegetables, and, to maintain a fresh and continuous supply, require to be sown at intervals of two or three weeks French beans, too, are always in demand during the summer, and are obtainable when peas are often difficult to procure. To keep up a supply of young, tender pods, a sowing should be made about every three weeks, or until such time as scarlet or other runner beans come into bearing. In ground that has beon well prepared, sowings can still be made of carrots, parsnips, spinach, turnips, rooted beet, silver beet, leeks, lettuce, and other plants for salads, also cabbage, cauliflower, brocccoli and other col worts. Attend to the thinning out of seedlirg crops. Timely thinning is most essential if the best results are to bo obtained, and should in every case be done while the plants are small and can be removed without injuring tho main crop. Earth-up peas, beans, potatoes, cabbage, and others that need it, and stake all crops needing supports. Examine early-planted tomatoes, and if any have failed replace with strong well-hardened plants. Early-sown celery should now be sufficiently advanced for pricking out into boxes. These plants require to be grown with as little check as possible from the time raised, and for fhis reason the plants with all the roots intact should be pricked out as soon as they are large enough to handle. Good, rich soil should, in every case, bo used, and the plants placed far enough apart, to allow of their being lifted, when ready for planting with a good ball of earth. In preparing the boxes place a good layer of well-rotted manure in the bottom. and fill up with fine, rich soil. Another sowing should be made for later planting.

SWEET CORN

Sweet corn, when successfully grown, makes an excellent change in vegetable diet. It succeeds well in almost any reasonably good garden soil, providing it lias been" deeply worked. A sowing made now and two other sowings at intervals of three or four weeks will provide a crop until late in the. summer. Though there are several varieties in cultivation, the golden bantam and country gentlemen are both popular and satisfactory kinds to grow, the first-named being the best for the earliest sowing. If the cobs are gathered as soon as the grain is developed, but before it begins to get hard, it, makes a delicious and nutritious vegetable.

Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/NZH19271112.2.218.34

Bibliographic details

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXIV, Issue 19792, 12 November 1927, Page 5 (Supplement)

Word Count
980

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. New Zealand Herald, Volume LXIV, Issue 19792, 12 November 1927, Page 5 (Supplement)

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. New Zealand Herald, Volume LXIV, Issue 19792, 12 November 1927, Page 5 (Supplement)

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