MAORI COOKING.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXIV, Issue 19763, 10 October 1927, Page 6

MAORI COOKING.

{MEAL ON MOUNT EDEN. METHODS OF OTHER YEARS. UNIQUE OVENS FASHIONED. INTERESTING DEMONSTRATION lit a time when the Maori race has Adopted "pakeha" methods practically universally, it is a revelation to see something of the old customs which were observed by the Maoris years ago. It was a novel experience to large numbers to watch the demonstration of Maori cooking given on the slopes of Mount Eden, near the tea kiosk, on Saturday afternoon.. The demonstration, which was arranged by the anthropological and Maori race section of the Auckland Institute, assisted by the lAkarana Maori Association, proved most instructive and entertaining. of the association, together (with Maoris from Mangere and Onehunga, carried out the work. Two earth ovens or hangis were prepared in the morning, bo that the food they contained would be ready for use in the afternoon. Everything was prepared and a rousing welcome was in store for the members of the institute when they arrived. The Maoris advanced to meet their guests, and then came the welcome in the true Maori style, with gesticulation and chant. It was the ancient greeting to a friendly party, a very different thing from that given to an enemy or to a suspicious band. This welcome was repeated when a group of girls from the Victoria School for Maori Girls arrived. Opening the Hangis. But the business in hand was the preparation of the kai. In a roped enclosure the party set to work to show the visitors "how their fathers did it." Two stalwart warriors began the preparation of two additional hangis. Pieces of bark and sticks cf wood, the whole surmounted by stones, made up the Maori oven. For want of the right wood with which to produce a light, they were forced to use the modern vasta for that purpose. Meanwhile, the hangis already prepared, and containing food, were being jealously guarded by four or five wahines. A number of inquisitive little boys were beginning to encroach upon the sacred grounds and the wahines waged incessant war with them. When the stones on the newly-prepared hangis were becoming sufficiently hot to receive the food the fire was extinguished and a flax band placed round the stones to keep them in position. The food was then placed on the stones and covered with mats and earth to imprison the steam. These operations were all explained for the enlightenment of the yisitors. Then came a little more ceremony. The food was judged to be ready in the other hangis and the earth was removed and the wrapping taken off, to the accompaniment of a slow chant from the women and a lively contribution from the men. The one disclosed a large piece of pork artistically set in potatoes, the other pieces of fish with potatoes and mussels. The food looked very appetising. Ceremony of Eating food. 'A number of small flax baskets had been manufactured and, carrying the food in these, the party set out in a procession to convey it to the visitors —members of the institute grpuped on the hillside some little way off. Each one placed his burden on the ground in front of the The invitation to eat, which was given in Maori by Sir. J. Rukutai, president of the Maori Association, was rather a delicate matter, as care had to be taken to see that the order of rotation did not offend any of the party. The Mangere Maoris were the favoured ones, the first cry of the announcer being "Kia Mangere." After members of the institute had eaten some of the food, the baskets Were passed round among the crowd. A pleasing ceremony later was the planting of a totara tree on the spot where the hangis had been fashioned. The actual planting was carried out by Mrs. Rukutai, the wife of the president of the association. It was explained the' Maoris always named a tree under such circumstances, and this one was given the title of "Potiki-Ropu"—the child of the association. In, addressing the tree, according to custom, Mrs. Rukutai expressed a hope that' it would prosper " so that in days to come our grandchildren may come and rest in your shade." In short addresses, Mr. W. Page Rowe, of the Auckland Institute, and Mr. E. H. Potter, Mayor of Mount Eden, thanked the Maoris for their demonstration. '