GARDEN AND ORCHARD.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXIII, Issue 19504, 7 December 1926, Page 16

GARDEN AND ORCHARD.

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN i i ■■■— ■■■-• ■

CULTURE OF BROCCOLI. BY S.T.&. The bi'occoli plant is very similar- .to the cauliflower but differs from that wellknown vegetable in several respects. In appearance it is very similar but the {lower head is divided into sections much more distinctly than the cauliflower head is. 'To make the divisions more pronounced small leaves sometimes grow in between the divisions that comprise the flower-head. Another difference is the time taken to reach maturity, the [broccoli requiring 9 or 10 months (sometimes longer), whereas the cauliflower in about 6 or 7 months. As it requires such a long period to reach maturity the broccoli is not considered worth growing by some gardeners. This is quite right if cauliflowers can be obtained all the year round or almost so. In the small garden also the space it would occupy for such a long time could be put to a better use, bat in a larger garden there is no reasop why this crop should not be grown. Broccoli are very useful to maintain a supply during the winter when caubV flowers are scarce. Besides this, one can rely more on the broccoli crop to come in for early spring use than on a crop of cauliflowers, because the development of the latter is regulated by the weather which prevails during the winter season, and, as the weather is variable 'from year to year, so is the time of the maturing of the crop. Growth in Cold Weather. If the broccoli is planted at the same lime each year it will usually reach maturity at practically the same time each year. One great advantage that the broccoli crop possesses is that it can withstand the cold, severe weather in winter; in fact, it is rather improved by it. Such a crop is surely worth growing, for the gardener usually experiences difficulty in providing a good assortment of vegetables for an early supply before the majority of the crops recover from the check" received during the winter months. Although fair results may be obtained from the average soils yet none can equal those given by a well-tilled clay soil This crop seems to have a preference for the stiffer soils and generally does not do well on loose soil. There is one variety of which I know, however, that will grow well on loose soils also, especially that of volcanic origin. This will be mentioned when varieties are discussed. The broccoli crop will succeed on new land that has not been cropped before, or, if it is not possible to have it on such ground, the next best thing is to have it to follow a crop of peas or early potatoes. In the average garden it may not _ suit to put the crop ic. according to either of the above ideas, in which case it should be grown in what is considered the next most suitable position. One important point to note is that it ought nsver to follow a cruciferous crop, such as cabbages, turnips, etc., on account of the danger of infection from club root. Preparation ol Soil. In mailing preparations for growing broccoli, the soil should not be loosened tip too much, but should be kept fairiy firm. It must not be too firm, however, or else the ground will become dried up in summer and waterlogged in winter. The different types of soil require different preparation. A clay soil may be dug deeply, whereas a medium soil will require shallower working; and for a light loam very little tilling should be given, beyond loosening the surface with a hoe. The manurial question must > also be considered, as it likewise varies with the different soils. Although the broccoli crop does not make a heavy demand for food yet it is not a light feeder. Just sufficient to satisfy its requirements should be given, as it is one of the crops that can be over-manured. The most suitable manure is a mixture of sulphate of ammonia and superphosphate applied at the rate of |oz. of each to the square yard. The rate at which it is .applied varies, of course, according to the richness of the soil. The rate given above -is for the average soil. Organic Manures. Organic manure such as blood and bone should not be given as it encourages club root. Stable manure may be used in small quantities only. Large amounts of it tend to produce an undesirable result, i.e., to induce a rank gowth, the outcome of which is the development _ of tender plants not well adapted to withstand the winter weather the same as a strong well-grown plant would. The aim of the grower should therefore be to promote a sturdy growth so that the plants are hardy. To obtain such plants, though, the rate of growth must not be made too slow, otherwise .the crop will be too long in maturing. The seed is sown in a seed-bed in shallow drills during the months from 'August until November. Varieties ot m ,arit are early Penzance and Walcheren for sowing early to come in during winter; Allan's .up-to-date for_ a midseason sowing (this .variety being the ons mentioned previously as one which succeeds on loose soil); and Sutton s Last of All for a late sowing. The seedlings should be thinned early to keep them from being overcrowded and becoming spindly. It is of great importance to secure hardy, robust plants for setting out. If the plants are ready for putting out before the ground is ready for "them they should not be left :in the seed-bed to choke one another and be reduced to weak, straggly plants in a very short titn". Instead they should be put out. temporarily until their permanent quarters are ready. Work ol Transplanting. For the work of putting the young ■plants out either the trowel or the dibber may be used. In transplanting on clay soils the trowel should be used for the ground is already firm enough and will not be made more so by the trowel. On loose soil, however, it is advisable to use the dibber as it compacts the soil somewhat. The plant is set in the hole formed by eithei tool and the soil is gently pressed around the roots but is left 'loose on the surface to prevent evaporation. The plants are set out in rows about 2ft. apart, allowing 21in. between the plants. _ After transplanting watering will be necessary on account of the dry state of the ground during the period when the plants are put out. Of course, the weather and soil conditions might be ideal when the transplanting was being carried out. which fact would render watering unnecessary. The watering also has another use as' it washes the fine particles of soil around the roots and so helns the plants to establish themselves sooner and be able to withstand the dry weather. Such work consists of keeping the surface soil loose and free from weeds but do not disturb the soil to any depth. On the whole the broccoli crop does not occasion, much trouble to bring it to maturity. During drv spells it mav be necessary to water the plants. her attention necessary is the proheads ° AHV> ne Faction for the flower- , the earliest crop |o e not^^ adS '°-'fir hot summer OT n S°ov« vJfS? th - e required by the . rr loft exposed to the e emeL ' discoloured and otWkt i? b . ecome To afiord ■ ' : ■

leaves may bo tied together above the flower or else they may be broken and bent across the flower. The latter method may be put into practice more easily and is equally effective. I would, therefore, recommend this method to my readers. The time to give the protection is of importance. When the flower-head e first begins to show through the leaves .- they should be tied up or broken over, [j From then onward the plants should be watched every few days. . y Pests and Diseases. j The broccoli receives the attention of the pests and diseases common to plants of the cabbage family. The worst pest 2 is the diamond-back moth, the larvae of 0 which eat a large part of the leaves of e the plants. If the moths are at all prevalent it is difficult to guard the plants from their attacks and bring them 5 through reasonably unscathed. In the » small garden the best method of control is to frighten the destructive larvae by rustling the leaves so that they drop to the ground, and then to break the " threads, by which they dropped, by - means of a bushy stick. This leaves the 5 caterpillars on the ground for birds to r devour. As birds are common in gardens this should prove a fairly effective way } of controlling the most dangerous pest. J If one happens to have some kerosene emulsion ready for use on fruit trees a , spraying of this might be given to the broccoli crop and for that matter to any other similar crops that are also serving 1 as hosts, for the pests. Another important factor in combating the diamondt back moth is to sow early enough for the plants to attain a size which will not be affected much by the attacks of the pest 1 when it becomes plentiful. Various aphides also attack the broccoli crop but these' are not very plentiful. When present the _ control measures for these insects consist of a spraying with black leaf 40 or kerosene ejnulsion. As previously mentioned the broccoli is attacked by the club root which has the effect of reducing the yield more or less according to the seriousness of the attach- The control methods should consist. of the application of lime, the practice' of rotating the crops as explained in last week's notes, and the discontinuance of the use of blood and bono. Stable manure should also be excluded in favour of some artificial manure as it is also inclined to encourage the fungous disease though to a lesser extent.