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THE HOME GARDEN.

THE PLOWS® GARDEN. Ranunculi and anemone plants that present a yellowish appearance are suffering from the effects of excessive moisture; well stirring the soil around them will dry the ground, and aerate and sweeten it. Very early planted stock that are flowering prematurely and sparsely had better be pulled up and replaced with healthy, well hardened-off seedlings. Now is a most suitable time to plant stocks. Cannas that were taken up and transferred to winter quarters may be replanted. They should be placed to best advantage in round beds, or in groups, or planted at intervals in the mixed border. Some of the varieties are most effective in the rockery. Chrysanthemum ground should now be prepared for planting in October. The soil does not require to be heavily manured; dig in baste slag and top-dress with a liberal application of lime. Further ilertiiising is given as surface-dressings at different stages of their growth. Perennial phloxes, delphiniums, sunflowers, and other herbaceous perennials, must be kept free from weeds, and nrecautions taken to prevent slugs eating the new growths and weakening the plants. Dahlias that were stored away to rest should be overhauled, cutting off some of the surplus tubers and placing them in a glass-covered frame to restart into growth. Attention must be paid to sowing the different varieties of flower seeds for succession, notably phlox Drummondii,' larkspurs, African and French. marigolds, zinnias, antirrhinums, coreopsis of sorts, petunias, verbenas, poppies, ten-week stocks, etc.

RAISING PLANTS. SEEDS AND SEEDLINGS. In sowing seed and raising plants, whether vegetables, flowers, or other varieties, the success attained depends so much upon the condition of the soil, the time, and method of sowing, that too much attention cannot be given to any details that will in any way assist the amateur in this work. It has often been stated that there is little skill required

PROGRAMME OF WORK.

VARIATION IN SEEDS. Seeds vary so widely in char&ctei' that it is almost impracticable to enumerate all tho varieties to be sown, and the depth of covering needed. Discretion must in every case be exercised. Some varieties, for instance, particularly flower seeds, are as fine as dust, and scarcely need any covering, providing other conditions are favourable for germination. Such seeds, however, when sown in boxes and raised under glass are more easily protected, and if covered with' a pane of glass, and shaded with paper until they show signs of germination, there should be little risk of failure.

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. It will be found advantageous to sow all vegetable seeds in drills to afford better facilities for working the soil and keeping down weeds, thinning out the seedlings, and applying fertilisers along the rows. Do not plant cabbages, cauliflowers, or others of the brassica family successionally on the same ground if it can be avoided, especially where club-root has been prevalent. A ring of powdered alum placed around cabbage, cauliflower, and lettuce plants, is the best protection against slugs. Unlike lime, it is not rendered ineffective after the first rain. A light application of nitrate of soda given to peas whan the seedlings first appear above ground will give them a good start, and increase the root action. An ounce of phosphate of potash to the gallon of water is a good liquid stimulant for peas. The middle of September is early enough for tomatoes, unless the plants are protected. Planting during . unseasonable weather and unfavourable soil conditions courts failure. Carrots, parsnips, and beets are best grown in soils that have been manured with a previous crop. Heavy manuring at the time of planting causes them to fork. Onion plants from autumn sowings may be transplanted into rows. Arrange them Gin. apart in the rows, and 15in. between each row. Do not insert them deeply, merely cover the roots; the tops will lay flat an the ground, but will soon stand upright. Deep planting produces thick-necked onions.

PLANTING FRUIT TREES. NECESSARY CONDITIONS. Every advantage should b» taiken of favourable weather, when the soil is in a workablo condition to hasten forward the planting ot fruit and other trees. This work hitherto has been considerably delayed by the frequent heavy raiins, for even where the soil has been previously prepared, planting cannot be satisfactorily performed whiL sodden with moisture.

„ Having the soil well prepared beforehand, however, has this great advantage —that the planting can in every case be more expeditiously performed when favourable conditions prevail, whilo there will be little risk of failure, unleiss the planting is delayed until too late in tho season The earlier most fruit trues can be. planted, after being ready for liffctho better chance they have to succeed as they almost ai once comnience to make now roots; and are, in consequence, in a better condition to withstand any dry spell that may occur in early spring. The planting, however, should in no ,caso bo done while the soil is in .a soddein condition, so that the soil becomes puddled around the roots. This is often the cause of failure as the soil in such condition, instead of assisting root-action, forms a hard-caked surface. Cracks open as soon as dry weather is experienced, so that the roots become parched and all growth checked. In planting, the trees should in no case be planted deeper in the soil than they have previously been growing. Cut back any damaged roots, and, after planting, prune tho branches with the view of forming a shapely, well-balanced tree.

THE GREENHOUSE. SPRING CLEANING. At fte sctf&n t the year the greenhouse ©eoJvo its annual spnn „ cleaning «rA overhaul. Tho various pot plants should bo removed to the potting shed. Climbers should he taken down from their supports and thoroughly sponged with a suitable insecticide to kill mealy bug and other insects. Th® rafters and woodwork should be well washed and where necessary, painted Tho plunging materials and charcoal, or other substances the pots are placed upon, should be well stirred up and renewed, Next arrango tho climbers after repotting those that require a move into large* pots or fresh earth. THE WORK OF POTTING. Potting forms a most important part in the routine work of glass gardening and has to be practised almost daily to administer to the requirements of the different plants that are grown in pots. Soma require a firm potting, others moderately firm. Some require frequent moving into largo pots, whereas others need to bo repotted into tho same sized pots, or even smaller, until they start into good growth. Palms must be rammed firmly, and on no account over potted. Tho provision of efficient, drainage is always necessary. Tho pots should always be used dry and clean. Good drainage is un important preparation for potting. SOILS FOR POTTINO. The proper soil will naturally vary according to tho class of plants to be potted. It should bo just sufficiently moist at tho time of using. Wet soil must not be used as it cannot bo worked among the roots, and the plants never succeed as well when placed in it. Spring is tha season when potting operations aro most active, when tho new growth commences after a season of comparative inactivity. In addition to the ordinary potting, there are tho dormant tubers of begonias gloxinias, gesnerias, and achimines, that have been at rest for tho winter to bo knocked out of their pots, and to bs repotted into a fresh compost, to restart thorn into their new season's growth. REPLACING PLANTS. After the potting, or as tho potting progresses, tho plants must bo replaced into their various positions in the house* Water sparingly until they make fresh

. roots. Close tho house early, and damp i the walks with a sprinkling of water. This creates a humid atmosphere, such . 03 most plants revel in. The general , cleaning-up makes a wonderful difference - in the well-boing of the plants. ; TO CORRESPONDENTS. , " Argument," Waiuku.-Tho ioeios , (Arundo conspicua) of New Zealand and tho pampas grass (Gynerium argenteum) of | South America both belong to the earn# J natural order, Gramineaj, but are distinct species. They are noblo grasses. The toot too ie abundant in most parts of Now Zealand, and extends as far south as Ota go. H.C., Waihou.—Specimen of acacia with 1 showy yellow flowers is Acacia suaveolew, a native of Australia, The number of species of acacias is over 300, tho genus being one of tho largest known. These that are mostly cultivated are all natives of Australia, chiefly New South Wales. " Inquirer," Matamata.—-In growing barberry from seed, sow thinly in shallow drills about 4in. wide; evenly scatter tho seeds i and cover with three-quarters of an inch of soil. Sow early in September. Seedlings will be what are termed one-year-old the following winter and large enough to transplant into tho hedge tows, or they may remain and grow on for another year in the i seedling rows. R.T,D.,Tuakau.—Cauliflower plant- is attacked with a species of mildew. This ofton attacks the very early sowings. The cauliflower is a tender plant. Sowings made now are not likely to be affected. Instead of sowing the seed in boxes, sow in the open ground in a warm, open, sunny position. Incorporate lime and, sulphur in tho soil, .and when the seedlings are about 2;n. high water with a weak solution of nitrate of soda—loz. to ihe gallon of water. Very early varieties should be selected for present planting. Broccoli are more hardy and are in plentiful supplies how from plants rowed \ out in February. " Settler," Patetonga.—Now is the best time to plant cuttings of eleagnus. Select the cutting from the long, smooth shoots; cut them into 12in. lengths, and plant in rows, inserting them from Bin. to Dm.- deep and firmly tread. A.D.K., Picfon,—Chinese privet may b« propagated from cuttings put in early in June or later. As they are grown so easily from seeds raising from outline* is little practised. J.N., _ Remuera.—Campanula fotundifolia and Scillanutans syn. Hyaeintaua nonscriptus are both called bluebells. Campanula rotundifolia is tho true bluebell of Scotland referred to in song and story—" E'en th» slight harebell raised its head, elastic from her airy tread." Scilla nutans is the wild hyacinth, bluebell and harebell, native of Western Europe (Britain). " Cyclamens," Hamilton.-—The holes in the cyclamen leaves are made by caterpillars, which have been more destructive upon th* plants this year than previously. The aphi* that sometimes attacks tho flower stems and buds is easily killed by spraying with black leaf 40. " Curious," Brighton.—Potentelas belong to the order rosace®. They are a larea genus of hardy sub-shrubs or herbs rarely annuals. There are some beautiful flowering species that are much valued for rookeries. R.W., Paturnahoe.—Be lifting bulbs: They may, if necessary, mostly bo taken up when the foliage is partially ripened off after th# flowering. Hyacinths should be taken up when in this stage. Common tazetta tnarcissus flowering sparsely: When tho foliage has ripened of!, take the clumps up and thoroughly dry them in the sun. Replant early in March, arranging tho bulbs 3in. apart. Each bulb should flower .at the proper time. Re dahlias: Hand-picking and spraying the plants with arsenate of lead will control caterpillars. Tea roses and selections from the hybrid teas rto the best to produce the best supply of flowers for cutting. The names of a few hardy shrubs that flower over a long period are—Ericas or heaths. abutilons, veronioas, polygala grahdis, magnolia stellata, daphnes, hydrangeas, protea. rhododendrons and azaleas, alao leptospermurns and, viburnums. " James," Devonport.—Bordeaux mixture or lime sulphur would be the best npray to use upon peach tree that is being covered with moss. Either of these Eprays would act as a fungicide and prevent leaf curl. The caustic alkali solution might injure the swelling buds, " Learner," Masterton.—Kindly send another specimen of climber, the one you mention having been either omitted or "Jus* laid. Daphne that suffered from drongbt last summer and is now flowering most profusely, though the bush presents a sickly appearance. Cut tho majority of the flowers off. Remove some _of the . surface sou around the plant without . disturbing the roots and replaco with a mixture of coarse sand and light loamy so;X M.L.H., Pai.nevirke.—Cherry tree blossoming freely and only setting a few fruits that drop off before ripening ss due to defective fertilisation. Procure some scions from a known fruiting tree and graft over some or the branches, or obtain another variety ana plant in close proximity. 8.E., Epsom.—Weeping elms are pro* duced by grafting scions of the weepers on tall, straight stems of common elrnß. In" ordinary whip-tongue graft is the best, ihe stocks should be properly trained to produce straight sterna. They may be ailow<sl to branch when Bft. or 9ft. high arid a graft placed upon each branch. Conlir.e tae branches to about three. J.R., Ruawai. —The only effective way to rid the soil of convolvolus is by persistently forking the ground over. This is , most, effective during a dry summer. ...Using » weed-killer to destroy the tops will weaken thw roots. Sowing a thick crop of mai» will choke it provided the maize .gets a Rooa start. A liberal application or salt trow bacon factories will keep it down. Hokianga, and other correspondent* look for replies nsxt week. JisMß.

Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/NZH19260821.2.171.33

Bibliographic details

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXIII, Issue 19412, 21 August 1926, Page 4 (Supplement)

Word Count
2,207

THE HOME GARDEN. New Zealand Herald, Volume LXIII, Issue 19412, 21 August 1926, Page 4 (Supplement)

THE HOME GARDEN. New Zealand Herald, Volume LXIII, Issue 19412, 21 August 1926, Page 4 (Supplement)

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