PRUNING ROSES.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LX, Issue 18457, 21 July 1923, Page 4 (Supplement)

PRUNING ROSES.

AN IMPORTANT OPERATION.

This most important and necessary operation should bo commenced about the middle of this'* month. Pruning the majority between the 15th and 30th, and the balance not later than the middle of August. Pruning at intervals is recommended in order to obtain as early and as prolonged a bloom as possible, and to suit different aspects. All varieties of roses when newly planted require to bo more or loss pruned in order to ensure strong and vigorous growth, and to produce tine blooms. The amount of after pruning will depend upon the individual variety, its habit and the class to which it belongs, and the maimer to which it is trainedno hard and fast rule can be laid down as to the performance of this operation. As a general rulo the more vigorous the variety the less it should be pruned and vice versa, but all are more or less benefited by being cut back. It is better to overprune than not trim at all. The operator must possess some knowledge of the variety he is dealing with. Tho tendency with the inexperienced operator is to treat all varieties alike, using the seccaters or knife ruthlessly and cutting vigorous growers hard back; these should only bo sparingly pruned. Tho weaker growing varities" must as above stated bo cut harder back than those of more vigorous habit. Make it a rule to keep the centre of the bush well open and the plant as evenly balanced as possible. To effect this see that the bud nearest the cut is pointing in tho direction that the new growth is intend to take to produce a shapely bush. All weak and decayed wood must bo removed as well as any shoots that crowd the plant and prevent free access of light and air. Consequently if branches cross each other one of them must be removed Practice is required before anyone can become proficient in the art of pruning. In nianv instances a bush may have made only one strong shoot, surrounded at the base with weak and decayed growths. Consequently when tho leader is cut back and the useless growths removed there is little of tho plant left.

HOW TO TREAT THE VARIOUS SECTIONS,

The varieties belonging to tho un d perpetual, onco the leading section, are now greatly reduced in numbers. Those with a few exceptions, notably Fran Karl Druschki, which is. an extra strong grower, should be pruned back to within three or six buds from the stock. Those bolonging to the Hybrid Tea Section which is the most popular, and tho varieties most numerous, should bo much more sparingly pruned, excepting of course the weaker growers, that must bo treated accordingly. Tho Tea and kindred sections require to be still more sparsely pruned, ft little shortening back of tho leading growths and thinning out branches bhat crowd the bushea beinc- all that is necessary. Climbing roses that are trained against fences or the sides of houses and up verandah pillars and over arches and pergolas only require tho side or lateral branches cut back to within two or throe eyes from tho main or leading stems, and to have all dead wood removed. When new growths are wanted to replace any that have become too old, hard cutting back must bo resorted to. Minature or poiyantha roses also moss rosea, should bo treated similar to tho Tens. Rujsosa. roots must be very sparingly pruned. In addition to winter pruning the bushes should receive atention during the summer, and ha-vo any shoots that, have outgrown the others on tho same plant shortened back to produce n, mora equal distribution of sap and even growth, and not allowing any one shoot to rub the remainder of 'the nourishment necessary to the welfare and balancing of the plant. SUOKEJUNG.

Budded roses, the usual method of pro- { pagation, are liable to sucker more or less c from the stock, but by careful planting i and selection of plants, as well as after < attention and keeping them in an healthy. , growing condition, little annoyafice will i bo occasioned by suckers. At the time ' of, or immediately after the pruning, , these robbers should be removed by , drawing away the soil carefully from the roots and cutting off the wilding with a sharp knife or chisel close to the point where it has started from, in order not to leave any eyes at tho base to produce after shoots. Nothing looks wore unsightly than to see a rosebush surrounded by suckers, but how bften do we rivet with plants where tho stock has taken possession, and those who are not very observant, wonder how their once beautiful roses have deteriorated so. After the pruning collect all the cut off portions and burn them, and when convenient apply a good dressing of manure—stable being preferable i obtain able— if previously dressed with stable, to give the ground a change, apply honedust and basic-slag, evenly distributed .and dug in. With the lengthening days and every j prospect of finer weather and mnre sun- j shine, the week-end gardiner should again, after'a period of eight or nine weeks in- | activity, 'have an opportunity of beinjr j able t" : resume ordinary garden opera- j tions. A few fine days soon dry the surface sufficiently to tread upon tho soil j for the purpose of trimming find cuttir-g j ! hack those plants that need ltlen'iio-i in i this respect, and also for weeding amor.a ■ bulbous plants and seedlings, nnd_ after- ! wards digging to bury weeds and give the i various beds and borders a tidy appear I mice. By allowing weeds to grow pics j vides a surface cover, and keeps the soil ! in much better condition than when it, is j ■ bare and exposed to dashing rains, and j adds manurial properties when they ami I dug under. j PLANTING OPERATIONS. j Proceed with the planting of permanent i perennials, such as rose:;, and the dif- I ! ferent varieties of dwarf-growing flower- j ': ing plants: also hardy seedlings, inchid-j ■ ing pansies, stocks, antirrhinums, Canteri bury bells, daisies, dimorphothecas, gail- j ! lardias, penstcrnons.. careopsis, grandy- ; I lova, etc. ; also the different varieties of I ! trees and shrubs that am stntab'h for j I lawns, the mixed border, and shrubbery, } ! and for hedge and shelter purposes. I'.edr, i I containing anemones, ranuctili, and cycla- | 'mens should be weeded, and have the j i surface soil around the plants lightly i i stirred; this sweetens the ;-"»il and pro-: ! motes growth. I , . , VEGETABLE fiROWTNO. j PEAS AND BEANS. ! Owing to the unfavourable condition* : that Lave prevailed for so many week l ;, j any direction:-: for no wing of feeds or i piiintiiic; have been quite unnecessary! With the favourable change in the' v,<-ather li')W»-v«r, <:■■:>■■.::■ effort should be i made to place the ground in the best j r.c.-.'.«-ible condition for the sowing and; phoning of early crop?. _ \ '•";•:"v oof a toes Pre alwavs in demand, ;,;,» there is always considerable ri-k ': v.-,;h the *.'•;;■ tarty planting. i;ide<i»i placed hi a very dry "arm sit untie;;, ; where there is little risk of fronts Broad j beans "■; account of their hardiness, are' .-i useful vegetable for early use, and a! row or two r f . a now be put in. drawing the drills about three inches deep, and \ - at least two ?<■•«!„ bet.we«:i the row-. Tho j dvjil- should be Hi.ide v.ide enough to' admit of ■• do;:r>;'- row -,[ ><■,■<]. the .fed \,f'\nv -srr.'i' -j'-n nltrrnalvSv and placed from ; 3 to 9 inches apart. A ''•'■•■-' row* of peas ' t.or-, ii.v'.dd be sov.n. Of a!! '.egetsJdes 1 pear rue he _ most popular and a few '■ For early wx\r.p the dwarf varieties are ; the l.e;-t. the drill? bei;>2 drawn on or,-:-";; deep <..n;-'ugh to a Mow'of about ;<n ir.'.-h]] ;•■.■-.-, .in ;idva',i.'-.-. I,i snwing, waiter ;..!.e j - . ttedi Lhitkiy itud eveniy along tho drill i

Early sowings require to bo sown mot*s thickly than later crops, as they are more subjected to the attack of slugs, birds and other pests. Birds are most destructive as soon aa they commence to show through tho soil, and unless precautionary measures are taken, the whole crop is likely to be destroyed. Against birds the writers have found no better method of protecting the plants than stitching two or three rows of black cotton along the rows, keeping tho cotton three or four inches above the coil. To raise lettuce, cabbage, or small cauiifowor pants at this season of the year a cool frame or hand light is almost a necessity. Sown under these the seeds quickly germinate, and with reasonable care are protected from slugs and birds until the plants are well advanced. A correspondent " A.8." requests information re asparagu 3 culture. Direction how to prepare the soil, the arrangements of plants, and the best time to plant was given in tho garden column lest Saturday, July 14.

PLANTING CITRUS FRUITS.

PROFITABLE YIELDS.

When planted in suitable soil and proper care is given to their cultivation, there are few plants that produce more abundant yields of fruit and that give better returns to the grower than wellgrown lemons. Tho success that .has been achieved throughout the northern districts as well as the more southerly districts on the east coast has fully demonstrated that fruits of the finest quality can be grown. Orange trees thrive well in some districts, but there are U>?,* localities where the temperature is high enough to place sufficient saccharine matter i>\ the orange to produce really first-class, fruit, while there is evidently all tho essentials for producing acidity in the lemon. The fact that lemons, unlike more other hardy fruits, can only be grown in districts where the climate is temperate and where severe frosts an* seldom experienced should be an incentive to any person possessing these advantages. Before planting lemons, oranges or any of the citrus family, it is important to have the soil thoroughly prepared beforehand. and if the subsoil is of a stiff clay nature thorough drainage must bo provided for; for while a reasonable amount of moisture is esseutial to ensure healthy growth, there are fow plants that succumb more quickly through an excess of it. It is a common thing to hear of plants dying after _ tho plants have attained to a good size and when they should bo giving some return. This is often the result of planting too deep, or planting in soil of a stiff clay nature, with little or no provision being made for the outlet of surplus moisture. The holes prepared for the plants should be filled with, the best soil obtainable; any decayed vegetable matter is an excellent material for mixing with the soil. In planting the greatest care should be taken not to place the roots too deep in the soil. In most of the New Zealand nurseries where these plants are grown the plant--are In some instances budded well above the ground, so that the points where thu buds have been inserted can be kept well above the soil. If the soil is at all of a stiff nature or inclined to be wet the best plan is to raise a slight mound, so thatafter planting the plant is raised slightly higher than the surrounding surface. Before planting cut back any roots that have been injured by the spade in lifting or those forming a tup root. In situations subject to severe frosts the planting should be deferred until later in the season.