HISTORY OF THE KING COUNTRY.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LX, Issue 18342, 7 March 1923, Page 2 (Supplement)

HISTORY OF THE KING COUNTRY.

FOR LONG A LAND OF MYSTERY

COMING OF THE PAKEHA.

ROMANTIC TALES RECALLED

The name " King Country," does not imply any political organisation, as does "county" or "borough." It is territorial and historical, indicating somewhat vaguely a certain district, the boundaries of which were laid down many years ago by treaty with the Maoris and within which certain restrictions were observed, among them being the prohibition of the sale of intoxicating liquor. From Te Awamutu in the north to Taihape in the south and running westward to the coast, the King Country occupies the central highlands of the North Island of New Zealand, its chief geographical features being the threo giant mountains, Tongariro, Ruapehu and Ngauruhoe, which rear their snow-clad forms above a limitless extent of bush. Three great rivers take their rise from tho slopes of these mountains, the Wanganui and Rangitikei flowing southward, and the Waikato taking a northerly course. The Wanganui is the most picturesque and interesUig of 'these rivers and gives a sort of geographical unity to the Upper King Country, for its watershed embraces most of the area that commonly goes by that name, while the Mokau River lias a similar relation to tho lower King Country. For many years the King Country was scarcely looked upon as part of New Zealand. It was under the authority of the Maori king, and Europeans were rigidly kept outside its borders. It was a mystic sort of territory where Maori tribes still lived undisturbed on grassy alluvial flats by the rivers, on the shores ci mighty Lake Taupo. or in clearings among dense and unexplored forests, bo wonderfully rapid was the process of breaking down that isolation and so sudden the influx of European settlement that within a score of years the district was completely transformed. It is now only a question of time before it rivals the Waikato as a centre of production. To take one example only, the Kaitieke Dairy Company s factory at Piriaka, has already become one of the largest in New Zealand. The King Country in Maori Times. Fifty years ago the natives in the King Country comprised the Tuwharetoas, on the higher reaches of the Waikato, the Ngatimankipotos, the Wanganuis, pud those tribes which dwelt in the splendid valley of the Maunganui-o-te-ao. The arts of peace as well as those of war were practised by them. The carved house at Te Kuiti is a fine example of their skill. With the influx of the Europeans all native art seems to have become paralysed. The race of woodcarvera became extinct. Probably the last of them was old Nuku, who died in Manunui some ten years ago at the age of 100. Up to the last he could be seen pathetically carving volutes and grotesques from any odd piece of totara he could pick up. The settlement of this mystic land by pakehas makes a tale of romance, and residents who penetrated it in the early days and who still survive have a wonderful love for that wild and uncouth land, while those who contributed to its development, but have since migrated, look back on it with feelings of deep affection. It was the exploitation of the timber areas which first brought European industry into the district, and among the pioneers was the late Mr. J. W. Ellis, founder of the firm of Ellis and Burnand. He erected the first building in Otorohanga and later, in conjunction with Mr. John Hetit erected the first building in Te Kuiti. He was also the first to take up Maori land in the district, at Puketarata, at Puketiti, and later still at Maungaroa, far down the Ohura Valley. Timber Trade Opened. The beginning of the timber industry in the King Country goes back over 80 years-, for in the late 40rs Kawhia, which was then the largest wheat producing district in Australasia, was also the centre of a brisk timber trade. During the season several three-masted vessels would call in there for wheat and other produce to export to Australia, and after "49" even to California. These vessels often completed their cargo with timber, mostly white pine, and all, of course, pit-sawn. The first sawmill to bo erected in the King Country was built at Otorohanga in 1890 by Messrs. Ellis and Lewis. This mill worked for 22 years on a fine patch of white pine and rinm of about 1100 acres. In 1898 the firm (then Ellis and Burnand) secured the timber on the Tairoa block of 36,000 acres, and from that date for nearly 10 years, it continued without encountering any rival in the timber industry to establish miils along the route of the Main Trunk Line, supplying material for its construction, and for the townships which now began their infant growth. Then came the establishment of other large milling concerns, such as the Taringamotu Timler Company, the Pnkaweka Sawmilling Company, etc Long before farming became a profitable calling in the King Country a certain prosperity was enjoyed by the youthful townships through the circulation of cash from the wages of the timber mill workers. The Pakeha Maoris. Even before this phase of settlement, however, a few pakeha Maoris had found their way into the kaiangas and adopted tho Maori habits. Among these was a man named Moffat, who conceived the project of establishing a flourmill for the Ohura tribes at a place called Maraekowhai, at the place where the house-boat is now moored. On the river bank, and further inland, also, are still to he seen pieces of the machinery (notably sections of the large -grinding stone) which he had got the natives to carry in canoes from Wanganui—an infinitely laborious task. Moffat was at one time greatly trusted by the Maoris, but was eventually forbidden to return to them. Being anxious, so the story goes, to secure some treasure which ho had entrusted to his Maori wife, he proceeded to cross the river in spite of the stern warnings of the natives. He was shot dead when he feached the other tank. A Link with the Fast. There still lives in Taumarunui an old man named Alexander Bell, who forms an interesting link between the past and present. He has lived there for nearly 50 years. For the first 30 of these scarcely cnother European visited the place— occasional surveyor perhaps, or a scientist —but now Mr. Bell walks about the streets of a modern town, seeing new buildings going up around him nearly every day, and finding himself again enjoying, or perhaps, enduring, a civilisation he thought he had left behind him for ever. The story cf how he first came to the settlement is an interesting one. Story of Alezander Bell. Rome 70 years ago there was a tribal conflict between the Whanganui and the Urewera tribes, during which a man called Rangimaihi, of rangitira birth, very short and thick-set, and of surprising "strength, was made a prisoner

and brought to Taumarunui. Instead of being treated as a slave for the rest of his life--the usual fate of prisoners of war—he received the protection, and even the friendship, of one of tho leading chiefs, named Topine. This chief had a little daughter named Katarina te Waihanea, to whom Rangimaihi became devotedly attached. When she was still quite a child he actually won the father's consent to an arrangement that he should take her back with him to tho Urewera country, where sho would become coheiress to certain land belonging to that tribe. Ho carried tho little girl off. therefore, on his back, and brought her up in his home in the Wairoa district. When she had reached the age of 15 or 16 Mr. Bell, who was then in the Mounted Constabulary, fell in love with her, and married her. They lived to gether happily in the Wairoa till 1874. having one child born to them. And then Kacarin.'i's father, longing to see his daughter, who had been parted from him for nearly 20 years, isent messengers to bring her back to Taumsirunui. Horses (scarce at the time) were provided for Mr. and Mrs. Bell, but there was none for Rangimaihi. The faithful adherent would not. towever, be left behind. Hoisting on his back a great sea chest i containing all sorts of Maori bric-a-brac in the.way of adxes, etc., as well as European treasures, chiefly ironmongery, he led the way through the forest tracks. Owing to the shortness of his stat'ire and his stooping gut it seemed to those riding behind him as i;' tho sea chest were moving of its own accord through the bush. At last, after many days, they reached the boundary of the King Country, or Robe Potac, whore they were stopped by a border tribe. Bell was ordered to proceed no further, though his wife was accorded permission tc pass. In vain she pleaded for her husband's admission. Tho most sho could gain was that, he might remain the guest of the detaining tribe till she went forward and obtained authority for his entry. Failing this, she said she would return with him to the Wairoa. After a week's absence Rangimaihi came back with a passport for Bell, who took up his residence in Taumarunui, where ho lias remained ever since. His good wife, who was held in general esteem by Maori and pakeha alike on account of her extreme good nature and kindly qualities, bore him many sons and daughters, who have most of them married and fettled down in the district. She died a little over two years ago. Land Settlement. It is the advent of the settler on tho land which marks the permanent occupation of a district, and the settling of the* King Country teems with instances of magnificent pluck and perseverance on the part of the early settlers and their splendid wives. In another column may be read an acoonnt by a settler's wife of what the conditions were in those early days. It is a valuable human document. Historians tell us that the Saxon invasion of England took place along the rivers nnd similarly the settlement of the King Country had a natural tendency to follow the waterways, Now, as far as Pipiriki, the navigation of the Wanganui River from its mouth was not very difficult, but higher up it was almost impossible. A rough bridle track used by the Maoris ran from Pipiriki to Karioi, and it was along this that some of the first settlers penetrated the Kin<r Country on the south side a little over 30 years ago. One of these was Mr. Peter Brass, of Waimarino. He took up a small grazing run of 1200 acres at a place called Huikumu, 10 miles from Pipiriki. His experiences would have disheartened most men. He brought most of his sheep by canoe from Wanganui (a distance .of 60 miles) at a cost of 6s or 7s a head. The country was alive with wild dogs, which destroyed 500 of the sheep the first year Mr. Brass was on the block. The only other settler then .in tho district was an old Italian called Marie, who had built a slab wharo on the PipirikiKarioi track, and made a living by growing potatoes and selling them to the men who were making the track. This man lived for nearly a year on a few bags of wheat, which he got from the Maoris in payment for some services he had rendered them. Besides the Wanganui-Pipiriki River route and the Piuiriki-Karioi bridle track the only means of access for the early settlers who followed Mr. Brass was Field's track from Wanganui to Karioi, and thence to the block, a total distance of over 80 miles, and this track was often blocked for weeks together by trees falling across it or slips coming down and filling it up. Troubles of the Pioneers. Three years after Mr. Brass made his venture a little rush of settlement took place in his neighbourhood. It is almost pathetic to note the eagerness with which men try to get a footing on the land and to make a homestead even in the most difficult places. The Government opened up a good deal of land along the Pipiriki Road, the sections being of sizes which varied according to their quality, and these were offered for selection. The most of those adjoining the track were taken up, and the settlers soon occupied them, doing a little clearing, and building primitive homes. The bush was very heavy, which, though indicative of good land, was for the time being a disadvantage as, after the felling and burning, blackened logs in large numbers encumbered the ground. For a few years, while the original capital of the settlers lasted, they were fairly content, but a bad time came and lasted nearly 10 years. One would think that, when they had succeeded in providing pasture for their stock, and when the numbers of the latter had increased so as to furnish some ready for Bale, the settlers' troubles were over. By no means. The task of market- ) ing the animals then presented itself. The nearest market was at Wanganui, a distance of 80 miles, of which 60 were bridle track, and when the stock reached Wanganui the owner was at the mercy of buyers, as he could not drive the animals home again. The farm returns were so small that some settlers forfeited their holdings rather than carry on. Many other? took jobs at road-making, etc., and earned enough to keep their homes together. Unfortunately the land did not take the grass well owing to a kind of spongy substance on the surface, so that many thought the land was quite useless, and some in consequence sold their holdings for a mere trifle. Opening Communication. Readers .v.lio exclaim when their train is half an hour late, and write to the newspapers about it, can hardly appreciate the position of men who had no transport services at all—either by railway, road, or river. Not even as far as Pipiriki was there any organised transit service at that time. The settlers had to make the best bargain they could with the Maoris to bring up in canoes what they required, and to take away their produce other than livestock. In 1893 the Government offered a subsidy for a steam river service between Wanganui and Pipiriki. Messrs. Hatrick and Co., of Wanganui, put on steamers which have been running regularly ever since. The service was before long extended to Taumarunui. These steaniers° undoubtedly helped settlement a great deal, but did not by any means

fulfil all tho . requirements. In summer the river at times got so low that the boats could not get up for several weeks, and even then could carry little or no cargo, so that, great inconvenience was felt by settlers who could not get their wool a<w&y and thei* grass seed up the river. The Final Phase. The first gleams of prosperity came to those settlers when dairying was established in their district. This was done about 23 years ago when Messrs. Hatrick and Cummins started a butter factory at Raetihi, some 17 miles from Pipiriki, and 9 miles from Ohakune, to which it is now connected by a branch railway. The dairy factory had already given a great impetus to the district when the way was opened for a much greater and more rapid development by the construction of the Main Trunk line. Then came the era of the sawmillers. These flocked in, vieing with each other to secure timber rights over the heavy bush growing all round the mountain, and as much as £10 an acre was paid to Maoris and European settlers as well for timber growing on their land. The land .which was considered poor 30 years ago has agreeably surprised those who are farming it. It has, to all appearance, completely changed. The spongy substance has disappeared and now the land carries a fine sole of grass. Farms have consequently increased in value and towns have grown in proportion. Ohakune, which 30 years was merely a name, is now a thriving borough. Rangitaua is a town district. Raetihi has become an important stock centre, where large fortnightly sales are held. This is something of a contrast to Mr. Brass' introduction of a few hundred sheep 30 years ago. Settlement at the Northern End. It will be remembered that for several years there was much uncertainty as to the route of the proposed Main Trunk line. In Auckland there was a strong agitation in favour of the Ohura route. A syndicate actually sent an exploring party through the Ohura Valley, who, strange to relate, are said to have lost several of their horses from the stings of stinging nettles, but who nevertheless gave a glowing account of the attractions of the Ohura. They also drew up a document which was signed by nearly 2000 men, who thereby declared themselves ready to take up land in the Ohura if the Government threw it open. Some adventurous young . men, like Messrs. C. J. Ryan and W. K. Williams, did not wait for any definite decision, but took up land in the Ohura forthwith. They were successful after many difficulties, and are now prosperous residents of that valley. Scattered settlers had previously appeared in the Te Kuiti, Aria, Piopio, and Otangiwai districts, these being in no sense pakeha Maoris, but rather the advance guard of the permanent European settlement. Land was also taken up at a comparatively early date along the Kaitieke and the Retaruke- Valley Road, which was laid out in Sir Julius vogel's time. It was, however, when the Main Trunk line was pushed forward that the great influx of population began. towns, to'TLsnips, schools, factories, sawIt is not proposed to trace within the limits of this article the growth of individual townships. Suffice it /to say that mills, farms, and homesteads innumerable are now found in every part of the district. The spread of settlement has outpaced the making of roads and bridges, although large sums have been allotted for these purposes. Transit facilities are still greatly lacking in the King Country, but they are gradually being provided by the Government and by the local bodies.