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THE HOME GARDEN.

THE FLOWER GAEDEIT. t With the advancing season attention ] roust again be directed to the culture of , chrysanthemums which are the best of all autumn flowering plants. Those of the old plants that nave survived the mater should be looked after. Unfortunately many of the weaker growers have com- , pletely rotted, notwithstanding the exceptionally favourable winter and drier state of the ground than usual. . These failures are duo chiefly to the frequent rains throughout the autumn. Those |in the light volcanic lands have fared'better. Growers generally will 6nd*it diflicult to propagate a sufficient stock of many of the best varieties to meet th& coming season's requirements. Every care should now be taken with the old plants, weeds should be taken out from among them and the ground carefully dug or forked between them; to do away as muoh as possible, with any haroour for slugs which are destructive to the young shoots, eating them off as soon a 8 they appear above the surface. A good plan is'to occasionally dust a little lime mixed with soot' over the plants. Some of the best kinds that are not making any signs of shooting should be taken up and placed in pots or *h shallow boxes. Propagation of Chrysanthemums. This must now be proceeded with in order to obtain a supply of strong healthy younp plants for bedding out next October, the middle of the month being the best time to commence planting. This may best be affected by taking off cuttings and inserting them in pots or shallow trays or m prepared beds in a frame.under a glass tiorht. Propagation may also be done by taking off the suckers with some roots attached. This is a good method for the amateur who has- a good supply of suckers around his old plants. Never allow planta that flowered last autumn to grow on for the next season's flowering, always divide them up or take cuttings from them. Tuberoses. Polianthes, often, but erroneously pronounced and spelt polianthus, are delightfully fragrant flowering bulbs. To grow and flower them successfully in the open ground they require' special treatment. Expert cultivators take up the clumps annually after they have done flowering and the foliage begins to ripen off. They either allow them to remain on the surface of the ground for exposure to.the atmosphere, or place them on shelves in trays to become dry and have a complete rest, re* planting them again about the middle of September. Under this treatment they are more certain to flower. They may also be successfully grown in pots. The tuberose is a native of Mexico. There are several varietie« both single and double-flowered; thq variety called Pearl is one of the best, being of dwarfer habit than the others. Carnations and Plcotees. Are everybody's favourites and well deserving of special care in cultivation. Layers that were taken off At the proper time and planted in rows fairly close together in specially prepared and raised beds should now be taken up and replanted into their permanent positions in>the beds and borders. In lifting the young plants take them up with as much earth as the young fibrous roots require and in replanting mix a little coarse sand with some dry powdered cow dung and incorporate with the soil near the roots. Well firm the soil around the roots with the hands, leaving the surface filling light and loose. The present ia a critical time id the existence of the plants, the chief trouble being to keep slugs from eating the young shoots. A little soot and lime mixed together and placed around each plant keeps slugs away and is also a valuable stimulant. 1 Those thas w«ge planted last year about! this time will nave grown into good large plants. They require to have all the dead leaves pulled off and to have some of the.! surplus shoots cut or thinned out. Carefully fork the soil aroand them anoValso dust some lime and soot on the surface, lifting the growth up to: apply the dressing ' close in around the stem. Wire worm!*, slugs, and woodlice, find a suitable harbour beneath the foliage of old carnations; hence the necessity for, liming. Planting Seedlings. Attend to the planting of the different varieties of annuals and biennials that are suitable for this season as recommended in last week's notes. But defer, the planting of tender kinds and thorse-that are out of season. The recent speU of warm mild weather is an inducement especially to the amateur to plant kinds that should be deferred until very muoh later. Each variety hag its proper season; this should always be taken into consideration when making selections. Later cold cutting winds and occasional cold rains are sure to oc«ar, consequents tender plants will suffer.. Scarlet salvias should not be planted before the middle of October. The sowing of several kinds of hardy tmhualr may be .done now..',';-. i■ * _'..., , Plants in Flower. Among plants in flower at this season, Bignonia venusta is conspicuouswith its large bunches of V funnel-shaped orangecoloured! blossoms. This lovely climbing Elant is a native of Brajsil. It succeeds ere and flowers\mbflt profusely, provided J a wafin sunny aspect ~:ts given to it, sua* as of the, house facing the north. Coming into full flower at this season when ■' there is such apaucity of bloom, it is most ' welcomed and should be more extensively 1 grotwn. Jasmfinum psrimulinum is now i laden with the greatest profusion of lovely, double, yellow-coloured flowers produced ! at the ftxlls of the leaves all up the stems. This is a most useful shrub and may also ; be trained as a climber; it is very hardy 1 and should be extensively planted. . It is easily grown and keeps free from disease, ' an important factor in any plant. 1 From this, and for severaP weeks hence, • anemones, rahunoali, freeaias, cyclamens, J hyacinths, narcissi, will provide .a ' plentiful and gay display 0 r flowers for > garden decoration and for oatting. Anemones and cyclamens are particularly good, the plants being mostly in a flounshing condition. The different early flowering varieties of trumpet daffodils are now. in \i full flower and much appreciated tor i cutting. ,_ J THE VINERY. All Winter work connected with coohhouse vines, such as .pruning, cleaning and painting the vines, should have been com- : pleted not later than the middle of last ■ month. There are but few, even of the very latest vines, that are any longer dormant, while many of the earlier cool-house vines are rapidly swelling their buds, j In Starting the vines, the Tiouse should be* kept well open} so as to allow'the--vines, to Btart as naturally as possible vnM a strong break is secured. This is important for if started with too high a temperature it is almost sure to result in weak, longjointed growths. The temperature should bo kept as low and as even as possible when the vineg are starting, and; as they advance in •growth the ; temperature may be gradually increased. As the season advances the heat naturally increases, so that greater care is needed in ventilating the house. A% soon as they show signs of starting, the vines should be freely sprayed, as moisture is an important factor in assisting the bud to 1 break; Every effort should be made to! induce the buds to break evenly all over the canes. _ To do this the canes may require: bending in different positions aocording ito.. circum-: stances. In very many instances the buds on the top and upper part*; Of: the canes are the first to start, unless: means are used to check the flow of l the sap. When this occurs, the canes should be bent hack, so a s to check the upward flow* and keep them in this position until the other buds are sufficiently- advanced ■to ensure a regular evejf growth from every spur. Tying Up Vises. As soon as, the whole of the buds have started the cane s must be carefully secured to the trellis. This requires careful manipulation, as the buds; at this time- are .very brittle and easily broken. In tieing ' up the caney however, it should in no case: : be taken close up to the trellis, but 8hould : . be allowed to hang about three i»eheS;;he-,:j low the wires. This apart from there bemg less risk of damaging iha buds,; is»^g^ a *j advantage when tieing in the .iaf^w*»' : **:j

there will be much less risk of them being broiien, than when the young brittle shoots have to bend down to tho trellis. The cultivation of the vine under glass requires the most careful attention to every detail to attain the best results, and neglect at ...; any time during their season of growth is almost certain to result in partial, if not complete, failure. To maintain anything like an exact temperature after the vines havn started is, of course, almost impossible, as the weather during our spring months is so variable, the nights being often exceptionally cold, while the days are warm aud sunny. Much, however, can b« done in regulating the temperature in such weather, by ventilating freely during the da" and dosing the house while the temperature is fairly warm. Moisture as already mentioned is an important factor, not only in inducing an even break of the buds, but in assisting to secure healthy, vigorous growth after thoy have started. The Ploor of Vinery. In all houses where late grapes are grown the floor of the house should be covered with concrete asphalt or with tar and sand. If this is done the temperature ag well as the atmosphere can be better regulated, while it prevents an excess of moisture, so often experienced when the soil is sodden with moisture just at the time when a nice genial temperature is most needed. Sufc it is,in the late autumn when- late grapes are wanted to ho kept, that a dry atmosphere is essential, and when the greatest difficulty is experienced in preventing decay of berries. The present i s a good time to undertake this work and to reap the full advantage of it during the coming season. Vines that are being pushed on with the aid of artificial heat'will now'be well ad- ! vanced '. Little, however, is -gained by pushing the vines so rapidly, for if too high a temperature is maintained at this time, weak, long-jointed growth is almost sure to result. If started slowly until strength of lateral and a good show of bunches are shown, they can be pushed on more rapidly with little-or no risk. Disbudding. - ■■--•'- - -..--.- ♦...-... ':. j . The first operation after they are well started in disbudding—that is removing all shootg not required for fruiting or for covering the trellis. It frequently happens that three, four, or more buds start out around each spur, and;, should be with exception of the two. strongest growths. These- should be left until th<> one showing the -'.most "promising bunch can be and Until the lateral is secured .to the. trellis, when the other lateral, if not needed, may be,shortened back As soon ase sufficient growth has I>een made, the.laterajji will reouire stopping, 'the stopping being regulated h- the space the lateraJ 3 are required to fill. case, should 1 it be . ■ i ," 1 ? 1 " the second eye or leaf; bayond the bunch, while in every case!three eyes! are •■■preferable if space will allow. : This stopomg is soon followed by secolndqrr laterals starting to grow from each ;jointj \ these must be kept removed, from time to time as soon as they start to'grow. V PEIJIT TSEES; Transplanting operations is this, department should now be well advanced. Throughout the whole winter months; tho .. iweathor >has" 'been, very favourable A far working the sojl,. and" placing /it I'm", the best possible condition for planting. The season for' .transplanting will soon be drawing to a close, as already some varieties are showing signs of activity,, particularly the peach and kindred varieties. The severe frosts experienced I have cetainly kept the growth; jn. Check, ' j but with the lengthening days, and in- .. ■■. 1 creasing heat, miny ntona fruits are I rapidly developing their newer "bods, Early planted citrus fruits havei in many - instances. suffered from the -severe:: froste, especially,, "when ;pisat^-.,iaJew; Jyipg; '■' aitaataohs',. and when they have net been '< in some way protected. In wKposed ; sitoationa tbivt are liable.to severe i : the safest.time toplant lemonH or Other'';' ' citrus fruits is-during the present. and ; i succeeding month; In fact littlo is in planting before thta time, unless it is in hght,-'fmUe soils, and'in Wjarm.innny positions. When planted at this time, if , the soil has been - welK treated, there is naturally mcne warmth in the ground, so that root action is more rapidv and the plants ajfejmore: qnicHy established. It uobs not necessarily follow, however j/iliat - much grbWth;.\wa:r .'. hot, summer' monthß, as most: of the" cife: rus trees, altho'dgh root growth; oftenvmaks' little or bog , growwi until in the- snmniiir ■.*»: - early autumn, when they generally:, start into heai^y^''-growth...\--'Tnis;esimaJayTap : »:.-.:- plies to newly plantied trees, and is nou so noticeable; with plants that are thoroughly established. The fact of their ; making theii?.young growth in the autumn >- issihe more reason why they should hsfra some protection, when; planted in situations that at all subject to severe frosts. ';v ■,>",!* " For planting citrus fruits, the-, sotf, .can-. [ not be too weiLprepared, and. the " ! cannot be too >careJhilly The "trees in';no case 4»i: planted! deep. ■..• ' Most o£ the Citrus fruits ■ are .worked, | the orange: stocjf, l the bud or: grafting be-r ing: inserted itsi the stock three movei 1 inches the soib The trees, should - " in no instance be placed deepesr than i6;;< , J has preyiduslybeehi growing, while if" toe soil is at aE of- a stiff- nature, JS ' should: be securely staked to-, prevent r planting, the ttees will be. on a slight f mound-, As soon as jilafatedi the trees,. should be stacked to prevent ■ them being swayed abouti by the wind, t '■■■- : ; "~~~~" , -' : - • s answebs to oobbespoitdekts. , .'.'.. . - ; -.:...,'. .:-' . • '-. ' 8.L.T., Pirongift.—•Name or grass ie Prairie crass. A strong growing and. hig'aly ' perennial specks- It is much appreciate*! ' by all kinds of cattle; is a for _ i- planting among orchard troea and cutting ?' for cattle feed. Ifcrsoon dißM®<3aw fnTtter- . manent •pastures, owinK 'to the-close'eaiingw, down and treacling of the stock,iand previsa- • tion of seeding. It is one of -■ the b«Bt : ! grasses for sotring for the: nuipoee of digr- ' f ginjt down to add fibte ana tehew'kitehen' I garden and other eoi'e haye--become dead and lacking in bumus, It. is also a • good kind for smothermg winter w<aeds," and keeps the' surface" soil from bemsr beiien "-;'. hard by the heavy wmtsr raaTjS.';■ : Tbe:- ■ value oi this crass is not sufficiently *ppreciated. ■ - >:.-'-,-/-• • " - " Tolosa," Avondale.-7-No effeclraal; : remedy . for the destruction of thai pesniciqus pest.'.■'.'.-'■.■ . the pear nudge, has uo to the!'present ': 1 be«n discovered. Deep ploughing thiioughou% i.-i • • |he orchard to' turn- the insects .undUar- wh«n- ! i in the chrysahs state, e«id to kill them. Tho Horticultural Division are experimentitwr. and wih. no doubt, find."*. -mean* e£. : destroying them; -~ Sprayinga. are ineffective.,-,. . i Spraying with arsenate of lead. tlKng- ona tablespoonful to the gallon of water, is the best preventative: for the small brown beetle , 'k that paakea its .appearance in' the spring i • time. Tab -4.4.40 formula,, is the, beat; that , is 4lb: bmestene P 41b. hme to 40 eallons' of wster is. the most approved strensth to ■• 1 use. It will not burn: the foliage at this i strength. Instead of tib. of lime, Sib of « wttshire eode bo . substituted. Sows© i orcnardists are dispfinsing with the lime and using-the pure bluestone at as much as Sib 1 ( to the 40 gallons. \ ,'■ . li.Mc.. .Th»mesV-~Se- your' : iaw9,'.only laid r)o<vn and sown two or threo yaars ago, wad i now thickly covered with moss, apply a , good liberal dressing, of n«;wly-nlaked roche. . lime, with a littlo salt added. This will kill!. i the moss and act m * fertihwr. A i ew weekji' ■■. |stor ol nitrate, of soda, dissolved • in water. apphed;wi4h th.e watering;can, wiU . be beneficial. Your ground must either be, shaded or naturally::damp for moss to have tiikon such * hold. Afew; days after the i luninz,. rakmg . the surface over •-. will assiat , in killing the moss. " Vegetable grower," 1 application of " concentrated chtmical m«f '.' •; nures, notably,'nitrate of soda, great carei i should be,taken net to apply too nuich,*]: , any one time, else the plants will be forced toabnorb more nitr*se than is kom for it, - 1 "JUHtlo and often', is the mw:im_ i , , Ka«nfi;,. .... i applied t» this highly-concentrated fertuMer-. The same c*ution applies to suprarpncspoßt?* ' containing an excefca of acid or sucb"*! 1 " ' as sulphate of ammonia, kainit, «t«t -* 1 ? s overdose will kill some plants . also aour heavy land, Cowers,; otter:member»^tt^|W^|-. family wa sreatly benefited by ' dose to «sach W*ll&sFuitr > days to »lc«of befngs, i » '.''Amateur, '•'=■ supply vi If re? l . »»i ' : £L '^SSaMfft,*;«wn3» in *»; ] estivation 1»P»ot, and aoma 'wl«s they fu^ : : xjever be»lM > y^^"rr«m^• vegetabl* parasites - ". '■';<■ $$&& Md W upon tbo -

Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/NZH19220819.2.129.30

Bibliographic details

New Zealand Herald, Volume LIX, Issue 18173, 19 August 1922, Page 3 (Supplement)

Word Count
2,836

THE HOME GARDEN. New Zealand Herald, Volume LIX, Issue 18173, 19 August 1922, Page 3 (Supplement)

THE HOME GARDEN. New Zealand Herald, Volume LIX, Issue 18173, 19 August 1922, Page 3 (Supplement)

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