THE GARDEN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LVI, Issue 17270, 20 September 1919, Page 3 (Supplement)

THE GARDEN.

CHARMING BORDER PLANTS.

Daisies, violets, and the primrose family, to which polyanthus and cowelips belong, are charming border plants of the easiest culture. Violas belong to the pansy tribe, and are esAansively used for bordering and massing for colour arrangements. They are exceedingly floriferous, continuing in bloom for a long period. Yellow, purple, and white colours are reproduced true from seeds. Pansiee are general favourites, and may be grown by almost everyone, provided the- position is neither too hot nor too dry. They delight in a good loamy, moist soil, and under good culture and liberal treatment give splendid results. Inferior strains, however, are not worth cultivating. The soil for pansiea should be well enriched with manure, thoroughly decayed cow manure being the best, and a top-dressing of the same material powdered up and mixed with coarse Band applied occasionally when the plants are in flower.

Popular Flowers. Polyanthus and primroses are exceeding attractive little plants at this season, affording euch a variety of colours. Cowslips are old-fashioned favourites of modest appearance. Violets never flowered better, they have evidently benefited by the rest in the autumn and dry winter. They have not run to foliage and

are of dwarfer habit in their growth. The Princess of Wales is the freest-flowering and most popular of the singles and Swanley double white amongst the double*. • Stocks and Linums. - Borders of Virginian stock are most useful and attractive at this sason and are not affected by wind or weather. Special strains comprise a pleasing "mixture of colours, including whites, lilacs, and reds. Linum coccineum. the scarlet -linum, fe a Useful, hardy, free-flowering annual, imparting a brilliance of colouring. Alonsoas are now in full flower. There are several shades of colours in plants, the bright scarlet being the showiest. . Lin&rias and Anemones. Linarias are plants that are well worth growing for their hardiness and freeflowering capabilities. Thev are most effective distributed here and there in little clumps on the rockery. Anemones and ranunculus are specially attractive at the present time. No flower can compare with the anemone for brilliancy of colours and diversity of shades. They will succeed in any ordinary garden soils, but thrive best where the beds are partially raised and well drained. tfemesias and Preesias. Nemesias are flowering most profusely, and are exceedingly attractive. The weather this winter has been favourable to'this plant, which comes from Africa, and naturally requires .drier conditions tnaiKusually prevail here. Volcanic soils ] and new land containing fibrous loam are

most suitable for nemesias. Dimorphothecas and sphenogynes, annuals of recent introduction, are a valuable addition to the floral display. Freesias must not be overlooked in providing spring flowers. They are so floriferous, very highly scented, and most useful for cutting.

Herbaceous Plants. Herbaceous plants are all on the move. Paeonies are throwing up their flower stems. Perennial phloxes and delphiniums are in active growth. Slugs are partial to both these species. Precautions must be taken to protect them, as injury to the new shoots impairs their growth. The sowing of annual seeds, as enumerated in last week's notes, should be attended to, always choosing suitable weather for the purpose and when the soil is in fit condition for working. The planting, too, of the many suitable kinds of seedlings should also be attended to, according to requirements. Slugs have come into prominence again, but are not nearly so numerous as in former years. Every means, however, should be adopted to keep them under control. If left unchecked they rapidly increase and de- j molish many of the young seedlings. I

VEGETABLE-GROWING. Better weather could scarcely be experienced for carrying on the work of this department. Early sown crops are making good growth, and will need timely

attention to thinning out before the plants become too large. If allowed te go too long before being thinned the plants become drawn and weak, and those that are left take much longer to establish. The main crop of potatoes should now.be planted. Successional planting of cabbags cauliflower, lettuce, onions, etc., should be made. Onions transplanted from the autumn-sown beds come in much earlier and invariably produce better bulbs than those raised from spring sowing. ° Planting Onions. In planting onions care must be taken not to place the plants too deep in the sou, otherwise thev have a tendency to form thick necks. Plant just deep enough to cover the roots, and tread the soil firmly. Successional sowings of peas, dwarf and runner beans, turnips, carrots, parsnips, spinach, beet, radishes, mustard, cress, and other crops should be made at reasonable intervals, according to the time the crop takes to mature, and in quantities sufficient to meet household requirements.

Herbs from Seed. Herbs that are raised from seed may now be sown, and old roots of sage, thyme, marjoram, and others may be taken up, divided, and replanted. The soil around growing crops should be broken up by being lightly forked or deeply hoed to allow the action of the atmosphere to penetrate and sweeten the soil. Earthing up Potatoes. Potatoes that are sufficiently advanced should be earthed up. This is one of the most important operations connected with potato culture. When the sets are planted fairly shallow, as they usually are for the early crops, young tubers form so plentifully near the surface that if notvsarthed up they would soon be exposed to the light and deteriorate. Earthing up also helps to steady the stems and prevents them being blown about. The earthing should be done as soon as the shoots are about six or eight inches high, loose, friable soil being drawn up around them. There is no better time to apply artificial manure than at the time of earthing up. Planting Out Tomatoes. A few tomatoec may be planted in a warm, sunny situation for very early crop, but defer planting for the general crop until the middle of next month, as little will be gained by planting. unless under the most favourable conditions, such as a warm, sheltered wall or fence. Harrows and Cucumbers. A few marrows and cucumbers may now be sown. The means adopted by the Chinese gardeners is the most successful method of raising early plants. A bottomless box placed over where the seed is sown and covered with a pane of glass induces quick germination and protects the plants until they become well established. Kerosene tins cut to a depth of about four or five inches and covered with glass will answer equally well. Rock, Water, and Pie Melons. The sowing of rock, water, or pie melons must be deferred until well into next month. These, too, are more easily raised by being -covered as recommended for marrows and cucumbers. As soon, however, as the plants are well above ground air must be admitted by tilting the glass until the plants become thoroughly hardened, when the glass and boxes can be dispensed with. Continue to earth up all plants that require it as they advance in growth. THE GREENHOUSE. At tin's season of the year there ia always abundance of work in this department requiring attention. In addition to the general work of repotting plants that have stood through the winter months, early struck cuttings that are needed both for indoor and outside decoration will require potting. Annuals, too, that were sown last month will require pricking out into boxes and pushing on for outdoor planting. The weather has been all that could be wished for hastening the growth of such plants. Most of the permanent indoor plants are now starting into active growth, and will be benefited by having a change of soil and pot. Repotting Plants. In reootting plants that have been practically at a standstill throughout the winter care roust be taken not to overpot. In most cases the same size pot will be large enough for the first potting. Many plants are often destroyed by being placed in too large pots before they have made sufficient roots to absorb the moisture from the soil, the roots rotting from the amount of soil and stagnant water that surround them. After potting water must be sparingly applied until there is active root action.

Ferns and Begonias. Ferns axe again rapidly developing their young fronds, and will soon be an attractive feature. Slugs ar e verv troublesome when the plants are at this stage. and destroy numbers of the young fronds, particularly of the adiantnros, and it is only by constant attention and trapping of these pests that good specimen plants can be grown. Bulbous and tuberous plants, such as begonias, gloxinias, and achemones and others, that have been stored away for the winter should now be repotted, and started for making a summer display, as few plants make a better display for greenhouse decoration. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. " Newchum :" Amongst the many don'ts in connection with the kitchen garden, don't plant tomatoes until towards the end of the present month. Don't sow seeds of cucumbers, rock, water, and j other melons in the open ground before I the middle of October; pumpkins and marrows may be sown earlier. Don't sow kidney beane, scarlet, and other pole or runner beans before the end of September. In transplanting onions don't insert the seedlings too deeply; merely cover the roots. Don't apply blood and bone or other powerful manures along the bottom of the drills prior to sowing peas and beans, as failures will result; the seede will rot in the ground. Don't plant kumaras or sweet potatoes before the middle of October, or sow table maize before that date, excepting in very warm, sheltered positions. Don't neglect the thinning of turnips, carrots, parsnips, and other crops until the seedlings become too large, and don't tread upon the ground immediately after heavy rains. The above are a few golden rules that should be strictly observed.

"Daphne," Hunterville: A good remedy for slugs is to obtain some fresh lime and make lime water. Strain through a piece of scrim into watering-can and sprinkle the ground with the rose on. Slugs do not as a rule eat daphnes. It must be something else that is affecting your plant. Diosmas grow in any ordinary garden soil, and do not require any special fertilising. A little bonedust or some well-decayed manure would be a good stimulant.

G. 8., Epsom : The grub that is so plentiful in your garden is the bronze beetle, which is closely allied to the May beetle of Europe. In the grub form it is destructive to the roots of many plants and ahrubs, also to the grass, by eating the fibre from the roots and greatly impairing the vitality of the trees and plants. When on the wing in the beetle stage it is most destructive in eating the foliage of roses and many other plants, also fruit trees, being particularly partial to plums. Syringing the trees with arsenate of lead is recommended. Repos.

Nature generously provides for more than one crop on the same soil. Vegetables which reach maturity early in the season should be followed bv later crops of the same vegetable or by rotation of other kinds. Onions to be need green may be grown in rows which are to be occupied by late tomato plants, as a few of the onions may be removed to plant the tomatoes. Radishes mature early and as they are harvested the space may be used for cabbage, lettuce, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts and other plants. Many combinations of this kind may be made.