PARTS FASHIONS.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LVI, Issue 17151, 3 May 1919, Page 4 (Supplement)

PARTS FASHIONS.

Our Parisian correspondent writes: Once again the dressmakers of Paris are at war amongst themselves. This time it is a question of "ankle-length " or "much shorter " skirt.". Really at the moment it is difficult to say, definitely, which side possesses the necessary reserve force* to command complete victory.

For some months the New York girls have been wearing ankle-length evening and indoor frocks, and very fascinating many of them have looked. Over here in Paris almost all the dresses, day and evening alike, havo been notably short in front, with fantastic scarf-trains Jangling at the back, sometimes nearly a yard on the ground. A quaint fashion this, and on certain girls charming. But tho others—!

Revolt in the Air. v Yet this outline has been generally accepted, by young and have-beep-young alike. Now there is revolt in tho air. At least two of the most important autocrats in the Rue de la Pais have declared in favour of ankle-length frocks, and these they are going to make, notwithstanding the fact that hosts of the smartest little Pnrisiennes, and especially the Parisian actresses, are crying out against them. As a matter of fact an ankle-length evening frock which is draped in at the hem, riving a sortoof. f trouser effect is a delightful garment and mysterious withal, for one wonders how it was possible to get into it. Evening frocks made in this fashion are composed of crepe de chine, embroidered chiffon, tulle illusion in several different shades, one posed over the other, or exceedingly supple satin. The important point is that the whole frock must be ingLace for the Evenings.

I have seen exquisite evening dresses made of fine lace triced over with aluminium threads—this for tho cunningly draped skirt— casaque tunic* made of metallic brocade.

The latest idea concerning evening bodices 16 that they should be cut in a deep, narrow V back and front, the V reaching quite to the waist, but underneath there is a fragile chemisette of flesh-pink or heliotrope chiffon, much higher in front than at tho back ; there are, of course, no sleeves. This kind of bodice would look too decollete if the V opening were wide, but with the narrow slit the general effect is fascinating.

Metallic Mesh. The new metallic mesh has " caught on " in Paris; it is the craze of the moment The cross bars of metallic threads are quite large, and in the centre of each there is a tiny medallion, fringe and tassels competing the scheme. So skilfully is the mesh-tunic hung, straight from the shoulders, that it moulds the figure as though shaped to it. A model made of aluminium threads and fringes, seen the other day, looked superb mounted over a draped skirt of mauve and rose du Barri chiffon, with a folded sash of black taffetas wound round the waist in Fatma fashion, and, gorgeous aluminium embroideries finishing off the tasseled ends. Crushed against the breast there was a cluster of purple pansies and bright crimson rosebuds, the surrounding leaves being of cut jet. A big jet comb stuck out at the back of the hair made another touch of novelty.

The Greyhound Type of Girl. Narrow scarf-trains are still immensely popular in Paris, and on some of the new models I have seen side panels lengthened into scarves—two going to the dress instead of one ! There is this to be said in favour of the loose scarf-train for a dance frock ; it can be caught up over the arm without in the least spoiling tho graceful outline of the dress.

Nowadays one must be thin! It is no use trying to evade this fact. All the new evening gowns, without exception, are designed for the grevhound type of girl. It is awkward for " the others," but what will von? We have become completely Americanised, and the true American type —the genuine " Gibson Girl "—is a human grevhound.

No one is asking for plump arms or shoulders just now. and if one happens to possess them one tries all sorts of filmy disguises with lengths of tulle or embroidered gauze! I am, of course, over-stating the rase just a wee bit, but beneath my frivolous words there is truth.

The Knitted Hat Band. j A band made of knitted wool is a row and very pretty trimming for velour hats. I The trimming can be bought, and can also I be made at home in a very short time. I Manv of the hands have motifs upon them either worked on the band itself or made I or bought separately and sewn on. j The motifs continst of leaves, or a simple I flower, or fruit, made of coloured wools j or chenille and beads on the band itself, | o' French knots can be worked all round I the band with a contrasting shade of wool. ; To make the band take an ounce of soft I fairlv thick wool and two steel knitting j needles. Set on fourteen stitches, and I Haiti knit, slipping the first stitch in every j row. : Continue this pk n knitting until a I length sufficient to go round the hat is ' reached, then knit a little more to enable j the band to fold over, and put a fringe at ! both ends if liked. Decorate the band aci cording to fancy, stretch it a little, then pet it round the hat, putting a stitch here j and there to keep it in place.