THE GARDEN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LIV, Issue 16657, 29 September 1917, Page 3 (Supplement)

THE GARDEN.

Azaleas and rhododendrons aTe the gayest ornaments of the garden at the presont time. Both are profuse and gorgeous flowering shrubs that should have a place where space will admit, ,as they are of the greatest value for decoration, cutting, and exhibition. By a judicious selection of varieties, ftey may be had in flower for & considerate period. The varieties belonging to the Indian or Chinese section of azaleas are the most commonly grown, as they will flourish in I any ordinary soil, but prefer that of a I moist but well-drained character. Being mostly of dwarf, compact habit, they are admirably adapted for growing amongst the herbaceous plants and dwarfer shrubs in the mixed border, „ and also in the grass ,and on sloping banks where the roots are not interfered with, as they resent deep digging near their very fibrous roots. They require but little caVe and attention. They come into flower when everything is clothed in spring growth, and form a charming contrast to the verdant foliage of surrounding subjects, producing the utmost profusion of bloom, rendering them conspicuous at a distance. Azaleas in Auckland. Our climate is eminently suited for growinc azaleas, as may be seen by their permanence and the manner in which

they flourish in the open ground. In addition to the evergreen species of azaleas, there are the Ghent and Japanese kinds that flower before the leaves develop, tho flowers of which are most attractive, of yellow, salmon, orange red, and other exquisite shades. These require shady and cooler positions. Rhododendron Culture. Rhododendrons are associated with azaleas, being included in the same genus by some authors. They are justly classed amongst the most beautiful and attractive of evergreen flowering shrubs. There are a very large' number of species and varieties. Some are extremely hardy, others are much more tender. However,' the majority of the kinds will thrive in our climate, including. the very beautiful greenhouse varieties, notably Virginalis, Gibßoni, Fragrantissima, and others. Amongst . recent introductions, the varieties White and Pink Pearl produce very large trusses of marvellously beautiful flowers, the individual blossoms being of the largest size. In previous notes upon rhododendrons reference was made to their special requirements as to the preparation of the soil where the land is shallow with a retentive clay subsoil. In localities where the soil is naturally deep and of a fairly porous nature but little preparation will be needed. The very hardy varieties belonging to the Ponticum section will succeed in almost' any situation, and are not so particular as to soil. Flowering Trees and Shrubs. The yellow kowhai, Sophora tetraptera, a native species, and one of the vory few deciduous trees. belonging to New Zealand, now presents a mass of rich yellow pendant blossoms that literally covor the tree, making it one of the most conspicuous and unique amongst flowering trees. This tree should bo extensively planted, being interesting and attractive during all stages of its growth. The doubleflowering varieties of peaches, also the scarlet kowhai, Clianthus pumicens, aro in full flower. Exochorda grandiflora is clothed in a profusion of showy pure white blossoms. Photinia glabra and the deciduous varieties of magnolia are still in bloom. Wisterias are coming into flower. The gloriously beautiful waratah of Australia is flowering freely. Spring Bulbs. Narcissus, ixias, and kindred species, ranunculus, wood hyacinths, Watsoniaj, flag irises, and innumerable other kinds of bulbs and dwarf-growing plants make tho garden and grounds exceedingly attractive at this season. The splendid spell of fine, bright weather lias enabled the beds and borders to be dug and a general tidying up accomplished. With a little surface working the soil may be brought into a good state of pulverisation for planting the large number of plants that are now available. THE VINERY. From this time onward, throughout tho whole growing and fruiting season of the vines, persistent attention is necessary to keep pace with their ( many requirements. At this season vines grow very rapidly, and the work of disbudding, stopping, "and tying the laterals to the trellis will need daily attention. The training of vines during their season of growth is a matter of considerable importance, and entaih a great amount of labour, as well as a knowledge of their requirements

on the part of the grower. Yet, if the work is done' systematically, it can be kept well under control without risk of injury to the vines. One of the most important things in stopping is not to remove too much growth from the vines at one time, but to look them over frequently and remove a little from each until they are all done. If this is done two or three times a week only a small portion would be removed on vines at the same time, and there would be little or no risk of there being any check. Disbudding Vines. The first operation after the vines start into growth is disbudding, that is, removing all weak and superfluous shoots that start out from the base of the spurs. Tl is operation, as in stopping the laterals, should be done as often as possible, so that too much growth is not removed at one time.. In every case it is advisable to leave two of the strongest laterals to grow from each spur, until the most promising bunch is seen, when the other can be removed or shortened back, if not required to furnish the trellis. In r,o case, however, should the laterals be overcrowded, as every lateral should have ample space to fully develop its foliage. The next operation is stopping the fruiting laterals. As soon as sufficient growth has been made, each lateral should be stopped at the second or third leaf beyond the bunch, but in this the operator must be guided by the strength of the shoot, the distance the bunch is formed from the main cane, and the amount of trellis to be covered, One thing must always be

borne in mind that grapes grow and ripen best when protected by a canopy of healthy, well-developed foliage. Stopping Vine Shoots. The stopping should always be done while the growth is young and brittle, and can be done with the fingers without having to use the knife. Shortly after the first stopping secondary laterals are made. These must "be removed from time to time as they grow, in no case allowing these growths to accumulate. In tying up the vines to the trellis, they should be allowed ample space for the foliage to develop without being crowded near the glass. The trellis should in no case be less than from 18in to 2ft from the glass, the latter distance preforable. One of the most important things in vine culture, is to keep the foliage in a clean, healthy condition throughout the growing period of the vines, as it is quite impossible to produce good, well-finished grapes without an abundance of healthy foliage. Every leaf should be jealously guarded, particularly those on the lower parts of the laterals, as they are not only essential for the perfect "ripening of the fruits but they help to form and store in the buds at their base tho material from which leaves and fruits will be produced next season. Regulating Bunches of Grapes. The number of bunches each vine should be allowed to carry must, of course, be regulated by the strength and condition of the vines as well as the treatment they have had and will .receive when carrying their crops, and also upon tho variety of grape grown. Vines vary so much in size of bunches and berries; some producing bunches equal in weight to two or three bunches of other kinds. This' must bo considered in leaving the crop, In no case should the vines be over-taxed with fruit. It should bo Some in mind that it is not always the greatest number of. bunches that produces the heaviost weight of fruit, while over-crop-ping is certain to result in badly-coloured undeveloped fruit, as well as exhausting the strength of the vines. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. "Constant Reader:" Wood ashes are beneficial to heavy land, applied as a surface dressin "hen the soil is not too wet. On no account use coal ashes, as many a plot has been rendered useless for years by using those ashes. Coke, finely broken," would help to lighten the land, but is not recommended. The slops you refer to are better used fresh; they are objectionable when kept any length of time. For testing lottuco, cabbage, cauliflower, and > other quick-germinating seeds, the best plan is to place some seed on a piece of flannel that has been moistened. Double over the flannel with the seeds between, place in a saucer; seed will sprout if fresh in a very short time. W.S., Rotoma: Re peas during past two seasons growing freily, coming into pod, and then turning yellow and going off, roots being completely rotten. Continuous wet last summer destroyed many crops of peas in a similar manner, the plants showing signs of mildew. Broad beans are subject to fungoid attacks, which either destroy them or render them fruitless. Particulars as to quality of soil and position in your case would greatly assist in arriving at a decision. Too much contact with sulphur fumes micrht be the cause of your failures. KEI'OS.