THE GARDEN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LIII, Issue 16372, 28 October 1916, Page 4 (Supplement)

THE GARDEN.

There are few plants that make a more beautiful display of flowers throughout the summer and autumn than the tuberous begonia, and for either indoor and outside decoration they are unsurpassed. For decorating tli egreenhouse their rich and varied colours makes a. grand display; while for outside cultivation few plants have so many properties to recommend them. The floriferous character of the plants and the length of time they continue in bloom, renders them invaluable for bed or border decoration. The graceful habits of the flowers contrast with the beautiful dark rich foliage, dispelling much of the formality so often seen with other kinds of bedding plants. Colour Effect in Begonias. Where one colour and habit of growth is desired it can be obtained by using one variety of begonia; if on the other hand, mixed colours are preferred, nearly all leading colours, ranging from many shades of pink, scarlet, crimson, yellow, buff, and various other shades, can be used. The best effect, however, is produced when the colours are mixed, and as nearly all the above shades can be obtained from a packet of seed there is not the same trouble that would be needed to procure the number required of one variety. In raising these from seed the seed should be sown in early spring, or if sown now will make good bulbs by autumn, particularly if given a slight bottom heat. Soil for Begonias. The soil most suited for begonias is a mixture, of loam, leaf soil, and silver sand. 1% pans in which the seeds are sown should have ample drainage, as the plants require plenty of moisture, and unless there is thorough drainage the soil soon becomes sour and the plants decay. As the present is the time for starting tubers into growth, those intended for outdoor planting should be placed into pots just large enough to hold the bulbs until they are well started, when they should be hardened off and planted out where intended to be grown. Culture for Outdoor Begonias. For outdoor cultivation the plants should in no way be started in artificial heat, hut should be allowed to start naturally. For indoor decoration the cultivation of the begonia is so simple that they may be grown successfully by anyone having a greenhouse or frame. As soon as the tubers start into growth re-pot into a compost of rich fibrous loam, decomposed manure, and a little silver sand; keep the plants in a cool airy place, and water sparingly until active growth sets in. For verandah decoration there are few plants that make a moro pleasing display. A few tubers placed in boxes filled with prepared soil will grow freely and produce abundance of flowers throughout the summer and well into the autumn. Growing Tomatoes. There are few fruits grown that are more popular or more in demand during the summer season than the tomato, and but few plants grown that can be made to produce a moro plentiful supply of fruit when proper care and attention is paid to stopping and training. As the tomato can be grown successfully in almost every kind of soil there is scarcely a cottage but has space sufficient to grow enough fruit for home ' supply. At the time of planting the soil does not need to be enriched with manure; it is later on, when the fruit is set, that the plants need all the food they can get in the shape of liquid manure. A mistake is often made in heavily manuring the land before planting, with the result that rank long-jointed growth is made, and entails double the amount of labour in stopping and trimming lateral growth. Training Tomatoes. Tomatoes succeed best when trained either on single stakes, trellises, or tied up to the fence. The single method of training is to allow only the leading shoot to grow, removing ail lateral growths as soon as they start to grow. The main object is to produce the greatest quantity of fully developed fruit the plants can produce, and by removing all : lateral growths to concentrate the energies of the plants in that end. If two or three leaders, instead of one. is allowed to grow the same system of stopping lateral growth will apply. To prevent 1 disease attacking the plants it is advis- ■ able, even though no disea* I visible, to occasionally spray with Bordeaux mixture or Yermorite. Wood Ashes for Tomatoes. It is claimed by some practical English growers that the free use of wood ashes in the soil is a preventive from disease: in any case, the potash contained in the aslujj will certainly prove beneficial and assist in producing healthy growth. It i is during their earlier stages of growth that the lateral growth require almost daily attention. After tho fruit is formed growth is not so rapid, and the work is easily kept under control. Chrysanthemums. The planting of all varieties of chrysanthemums that are intended to be grown or for the production of exhibition blooms should be completed as soon as possible in properly-prepared beds, and arranged in rows at distances already specified. Select stocky, well-rooted plants, and as a precaution against fungoid germs dip the tops previous to planting in lime and sulphur solution, or in I Bordeaux mixture, the 4-4-40 formula. Firm planting is always recommended; ram the soil around the roots with the handle of the trowel or blunt stick. This system of planting promotes slower and more compact growth, and much stronger root action. .Add a little well-pulverised light earth for the surface filling. Japanese Varieties. The Japanese section of the chrysanthemum family is the most popular, and generally grown for various purposes. ' The incurved, or Chinese section, when well grown, are models of perfection. The anemone-flowered varieties, with cushionlike centres and gay or -florets once so popular, are now seldom seen. \ Pompone, or daisy-flowered chrysanthemums, aie very double, exceedingly quaint, but very formal. The single-flowered section, of which there are numerous varieties, all of which are general favourites for gar den decoration, and also for cutting. The planting of chrysanthemums for other than exhibition (lowers may be continued up to the end of November. Interspersed at intervals throughout the mixed border, they may be grown to advantage. The Dahlia Season. Dahlias are usually associated with chrysanthemum,*, as the planting of these should take place shortly after. 'Although I the flowering .if the dahlia takes place | throughout the summer, being about at j its best during the latter end of March and early in April, whereas the chrysanthemum commences its blooming about the first week in April, and is at its best towards the middle and end of that month. From about the 10th to the end of November is the best time to plant dahlias. Consequently, in filling the different beds and borders with various plants, spaces must be reserved for dahlias. Varieties of Dahlias for Planting. The different sections and the large number of named varieties comprised under each heading affords ample choice in selecting. The cactus are still the most popular: the large number of new and improved kinds always necessitates an annual revision of the lists. The aim in the most recent novelties is to produce kinds that throw their flowers well above the foliage or stiff, wiry stems. Those that flower in the foliage, with drooping heads, are being gradually eliminated. Cactus and Collarettes. In the cactus, flowers full to the centre, with straight, pointed petals, and also thoso that interlace, and others with clawshaped petals, incurving inwards, aro the

most prized types. Paeony-flowered dahlias come next in popularity. They are exceedingly showy and most useful, not only for garden decoration, but also for cutting; the colours are most attractive and fascinating. Collarette dahlias are a comparatively recent creation; they have beautifully-formed, large single flowers, with a row of secondary petals, forming a collar around the centre. There are a largo number of named varieties. The colours range from pure white, rich maroon, bright yellow, and crimson in various shades. The collar petals are mostly white and different shades of yellow. ' The plants are vigorous growers, most profuse flowerers, and very novel and attractive. There are also the old double show and fancy dahlias, that produce most perfectly-formed double flowers. Bouquet or pompone dahlias are miniature forms of the doubles; they are dwarf, compact growers, and produce their flowers in the greatest profusion. They are useful 'for planting near the edges of the beds. General Planting of Seedlings. The present is a busy time in filling the beds with selections from the many varieties enumerated in last week's notes. Owing to the prevalence of dull, moist, and occasionally wet weather, slugs have been greatly in evidence, and most destructive, requiring assiduous care and attention in saving young seedlings and re-cently-planted ones from their depredations. Benefits of Cultivation. Cultivating the soil is of the utmost importance at this season of the year. The whole of the beds and borders should be gone over at least once every week to lightly stir the soil and break the surface crust. This operation greatly benefits the plants, and adds to the appearance of the garden. Stimulants should be given to some of the seedlings; a little plant food has a wonderfully stimulating effect upon the growth of some plants. It must, however, be judiciously applied, a Utile and often. Lawns need constant attention whilst the growth of the grass is so active. Mow at least once every week, and lightly roll. Proper care at this season keeps the sward in good condition. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. M.H., Dominion Road: Tom Thumb nasturtiums are the best and most suitable plants for growing along the narrow border in front of, and close to, the hedge row. Dig up the narrow strip, obtain a packet of mixed seeds, draw a drill about 2in in depth, and evenly sow the seeds; they quickly germinate, and soon form compact little plants, producing the greatest abundance of the showiest of blossoms. The foliage is varied. The variety, Empress of India, has dark foliage and intenso crimson flowers. "Lover of Roses:" The rampant, growing, climbing rose that you refer to is one of the best and most popular of all climbing varieties, named Souvenir de Madame Leonie Veinnota, a French production. Its extremely large and very attractive flowers, described as jonquil-yellow, deeply shaded with bright china rose, being quite a new and charming combination. The flowers are produced in glorious profusion. The foliage is large and most distinct, an indispensable variety in every collection, and especially adapted for covering the pergola, and rambling in a wild state over shrubs and in the hedge row. J.G., Devonport: In planting the majority of the kinds of palms that are suitable for outdoor culture here, the same remarks apply as to growing them in pots, namely, the necessity for placing the plant the proper depth, so that the base of the plant from where the roots start is level with the surface soil, and also for well treading or ramming the soil around the roots, Chameerops excelsa, the common fan palm, is very much hardier and easier to grow, and requires but little care in the planting. Kepos. HINTS TO GARDENERS, A soil that will grow fuchsias quite well may be made up of three parts loam, one part of leaf soil, including a little welldecayed manure, and one-fourth part of sand". Drain the pots carefully. For planting under roses either the white or pale blue lobelia will suit practically every kind of rose. The viola is another plant which can be used to advantage for the purpose. It makes a fine show, especially the latest strains.

The little bulbils from the base of gladioli will form plants true to the parents. Being small, they should not be allowed to get too dry, but put in a box of sand till planting time in the garden or a box filled with a compost of two parts loam, one part leaf mould, and half a part of sand.

Chicken manure is suitable for flower gardens containing roses. A spadeful of the droppings to the square yard would be enough. Do not use it for geraniums, and such subjects as would grow to wood and leaves without blooming well. Use it in the dry state for digging into the ground in spring, or make liquid manure from it, and dilute it well for use in summer. Should sweet peas appear slow in moving, they may be given, as a possible fillip, a single watering with a weak solution of nitrate of soda (half an ounce to two gallons of water). Where the plants are well in growth, staking, if not already carried out, will have become a matter of urgency. It is disastrous to sweet peas to leave them nothing but the air to which to cling. ' They promptly begin to fall about, embrace one another, and end by either getting damped by wind, or almost irretrievably mixed up. Few hardy plants deserve more attention as a truly ornamental summer-flower-ing subject than the hollyhock. Hie ifiriety of pleasing colours in the flowers, their profusion, and the length of time they continue to bloom, combined with their easy management, render hollyhocks worthy of more popularity. They are specially adapted for the "back rows in wide, herbaceous borders, or to grow in groups among newly-planted shrubs before these have had time to exhaust the soil too much. Fine effects may also bo obtained if the plants are given a bed to themselves by massing- the hollyhocks in beds of one colour a hold and stately display is obtained without difficulty Plants raised from seeds—the best method of propagation—appear to be able to withstand the attacks of fungus. A sweet pea breeder says: " Yellow is a primary colour and cannot be gotten by the combination of any other colours It seems very unlikely, ' therefore, that we can ever secure a pure yellow variety of sweet pea by the crossing of existing colours. It may be possible, of course that some day we will find a yellow as a imitation or a sport of nature, but this is entirely a matter of chance and bevond the control of man. There remains* one other way. hybridisation, bv which we might possibly get a pure yellow sweet pea. In the past the crossing has been entirely within the species of Lathyrus odoratus. In all there are more than ICO species of lathvrus, and several of these bear flowers of a pure yellow colour The apparent question then is : cannot we make a cross between the sweet pea and any other lathvrus, and with this as 'in entering wedge finally gel the yellow colour of another specie* on to la'thvrus odoratus?'' SNAILING. I've been snailing. I've been snailinc Up and down each ordered row "' Where the lettuces and spinach And Canadian wonders grow I've been snailing, I've been snailing. By the rows of early peas, And I'm coming, and I'm coining With rheumatics in my knees. I've been snailing—with a candleWhere the dews of night are shed, And I'm thinking I'm an idiot When 1 might have been in bed. I've been snailing, I've been snailing, And my back is stiff an*" sore, But I'm joyful ! Oh, I'm joyful ' For I've bagged full many a score. AXiSETJ'E ,HaYWASP. Korthcote s