LONDON FASHION NOTES,

New Zealand Herald, Volume LII, Issue 16098, 11 December 1915, Page 6 (Supplement)

LONDON FASHION NOTES,

- Feathers. Aigsettes and much high-class " curly plumage are finding,bat few purchasers. We may get back :to high turbans surmonnted' by aigrettes - and of modified" shapes. Some plumes are superseded by bows of ribbon mounted on wire, so that they stand as high as can bo wished. With all this thought and labour no woman looks well unless she knows how to wear her clothes, feathers or no feathers. k- f - : . ■ Something ■ Hew in "Disss, - - - - The high crowns to -hats, not unlike the man's silk hat," with, a brim that scoops up in front and dips at both sides, is original. The resemblance to men's hats is - - . ■ ■> carried out not only in- shape but in the silk plush of which many of the high crowns are made. The silk that shines like tarpaulin Is also being utilised'for hate. , -The boat; shape ; with drooping feathers is essentially; English, ; for it suits the feminine physiognomy of our countrywomen. Some of the velvet hats have the brims lined with crepe. The Hew Bodice. Prodigal as fashion is this year with regard to.skirts, she is extremely parsimonious as to bodices so far. ■ The truth is she has set her fickle heart on our having waists./once': more, arid/this/is her method of emphasising the fact. Sleeves ; are set in nowadays, and there are dart seams from armhole to waistline to fit the bodice a little closer, and a determined line is drawn rather tightly -where the waist ought to be. In fact, we are to be led, willy-nilly, but quite gently and tactfully, back to defined waists and other dimly-remembered things. While, skirts are abandormed, bodices are prim- and 1 straight-laced to & degree, and the inconsequence of the mixture gives a really rather quaint effect, with an early Victorian charm of its own. It is an essentially ingenue mode and supremely suited to the slim' and youthful figure. In soft pastel shades and flower-strewn material-, youth will disport itself very charmingly this season, while maturer years ill have youth imparted to them by simpler-lines and flowing draperies. How To. Be Smart. - . ' We are very fond of - saying, "let me be simply dressed . but anyway smart," which is not to be interpreted as arrayed in assertive styles or bright colours, but really well turned out. This does not mean that the very latest fashions have been followed. To be smart is the antithesis of being dowdy, winch may be very estimable but not at all desirable); avoid extremes if you would attain your object and take endless pains. There are people who by personal charm and persistence attain their object, and moreover, what they wear their friends and acquaintances have a chance of wearing also. ' Personality has a great deal to do with smartness. -; But be the m:tde whatever it be, it must be started by those who ] make them becoming: no one will, if they know it, wear what is 'unbecoming. The very high collars are -the thing and there is much - isnartaess in . them. When they were first brought out they were not high . enough., The new ones are very high out . soft, the thing to be.. careful of is that ; Ifiey may fail to keep up round the neck; perhaps that is why, many have pleated frilling above.; which comes close under the chin. . , -- , - - "' -• — -: _ . - - < " Facte sad Fashions. The French inspire our fashions, hue for the tin* being they trouble but little about them -. for- themselves;. You see Frenchwomen mostly in black ; still they send their • creations' all the world over. Few people know what they really want, and just at- present when money is so valuable the point is how to find the right thing, just; what you. wait to suit yourself, and the-'occasions when yon will want to wear it. Lace is being used for ruffles round the neck .and the wrists, often falling over tile hand- A pretty woman knows exactly how nice it is to be able to soften the effect of a gown with a little lace. Old lace with just a tinge of yellow 13 the right thing for show- , Ing off th« skin at its best, and also "for concealing defects in it. We hear a great deal about the waist, but in fact the latest fashions would seem to really define wHere it is, that is as far as dresses go; not so in mantles and coats, where it is altogether ignored. ■ ■ ,■■'■■-"■■"■ ' " ■ ■''■■■"