LONDON FASHION NOTES.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LI, Issue 15664, 18 July 1914, Page 6 (Supplement)

LONDON FASHION NOTES.

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London, June, 10.

Draperies That Dismay.

Puffings, gaugings. extreme width about the hips, bustle-like bagginess behind, big sashes, floppy bodices and coatees and blouses, all these things, possibly, may suit the slim girl who is not beyond the early twenties, but agitation is rife as to what is to be done for the plump girl and for the woman who is in middle life. Describing a very favourite model—the short skirt of pleated material with a draped tunic raised towards the back in a pronounced bunchy bustle—one correspondent asks: "What are women of fortyfive going to do it this fashion persists! The woman of 1875 was an old lady at the age when we are now all very sprightly young girls, and we attained this usefulness of outline largely because of our slimmer fashions and the "lines" of our gowns. Ii was in rebellion against the bunchy inartistic modes of those days that the aesthetes arose, when they adopted their narrow straight skirts and long mediaeval sleeves. At best the new fashions aro only permissible upon the bodies of very slim young girls. What will their mothers do? Besides the tight, pleated skirt, surmounted by the draped tunic, there is the pleated skirt with a very long upper tunic, buttoned all down the front and edged with several rows of braid—just like the tunics of 1875. Fishwife skirls are being designed again, worn with high bunched draperies at the back, reminding one of the dresses in " Milestones," act 3." There is no knowing what effect protest will have in time; but meanwhile the bustle back has been easily evolved out of the surplus material from front drapery, and it is unduly emphasised by a large velvet bow stretching across below it; its motive seems to do to keep thej bustle propped up in its intended position; the bow comes fairly low and it will often have to be sat upon. Up-to-date Beauty.

A Paris writer tells us that a Frenchman once said that the Parisienne could change her silhouette more quickly than any other woman in tho world, "and one is inclined to think he is right, for within the past week the silhouette of the welldressed woman has changed so much that a miracle must have happened. So long has beauty gone haggard and bony it is difficult to belive it can have so suddenly grown rosy cheeked, round of limb, and capable, one would say, of digesting good, unwholesome food. It walks with a springy tread and instead of tiring its head with the spoils of innocent, feathered victims is crowning itself with gorgeous flowers. In fact, the new beauty is of the old-fashioned kind, and very soon, instead of anaemic emaciation we shall see busts and hips and full round cheeks. It will clothe itself in flowing robes, and in a few weeks' time wo shall probably bo protesting against the crinoline, false hips, cushioned shoulders, and solid bustles. For the moment, though, the masses are struggling against too little, not too much material."

Prospective Comfort.

The oracle has spoken! But in these days there is more than one oracle, for originators of fashions are numerous. So let us say the oracles have spoken, and the hope is univarsal that what has been ordered will soon take definite shape, then we shall be able to walk in comfort. Special attention, it seems, is being devoted to the question of width of skirt near the feet. Much liberty is forecasted, but at the moment very litle of it is visible. Skirts of all the* new models are as hampering and inconvenient as ever, though for some whilo genuine protests have been raised here and abroad. The adjective "banal" is applied to the slitup seam which has become the exclusive property of the populace; the sooner it disappears altogether the better. One famous lady in Paris, an undoubted authority, declares that the divided skirt must go—it has already become public property, and this means its death warrant. " Tho tendency is now towards fulness in the upper part of the skirt., but the slim silhouette is still preserved by draping the lower part, thus avoiding a return to the unbecoming tube skirts of the Second Empire." London provides no evidence as yet that the draped skirt is going to allow the feet any more room. However, we must exercise patience and hope for a long-desired freedom.

A smart little tern o'6hanter toque suitable for winter wear. It would look well carried cut in blue velvet or velour, with a band of brocade acrors the front, and (Upstanding mount of contrasting colour.

Another comfortable little hat lor winter days, with_ trail of small flowers and mount as trimming.