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THE GARDEN.

Palms: This large order of plants is one of the most magnificent in the vegetable kingdom, and is pre-eminent for the grandeur of many of its species. Doing nearly all natives of tropical regions they impart associations of bright and sunny skies. The different varieties vary in height, some of the loftiest when fullgrown, towering considerably over 100 ft, with their straight cylindrical leafless stems that are crowned with a head of spreading fronds, while there are some whose stems do not exceed two or three feet, and again others that aro of still dwarfer habit, where the leaves borne on tho tops of the stems rise out of tho soil. From the tallest to the dwarf est all possess an elegance of form and beauty that render the varieties belonging to this genus special objects of admiration. Particularly when seen in their native habitats palm grooves produce impressions of lasting beauty. The nikau, when seen in all its glory, is one of tho fii.cst sights in our forests. Encouraging Palm Planting. The object in drawing attention to the value of palms as such splendid subjects for tho beautification of the landscape, is to induce planters to make use of the hardier varieties that succeed well in our climate, and to arrange their planting more in keeping with the natural forest and its surroundings. Thero aro quite a number of palms that grow and flourish in this locality. Unfortunately, tho nikau, our native species, is one of the most difficult to cultivate, and will not thrive without shelter and partial shade. But when planted in sheltered gullies, where other trees afford suitable shade, it may be grown to prefeclion. The Palms to Pisnt. Chamtnrops excclsa, tho fan palm, is thoroughly hardy and of easy culture, thriving almost anywhere. It grows rapidly, and attains a height of about 30ft. It is a native of both China and Japan. Chamsrops humilis, the dwarf palm, is very hardy and most ornamental; this is the only species out of the numerous list that is a native of Europe. The Phoenix family provido some of tho most useful and ornamental P. Canadensis; being one of the hardiest and bost; this variety is extensively grown in California, where splendid specimens are to bo seen. P. Sylvestris is equally hardy and graceful. P. Reclinata is another beautiful palm. P. dactylifera, the date palm, succeeds well hero. Livistona australis, the Australian cabbage palm, is a noble species with largo palm-shaped leaves. Washingtenia filifera or Brahoa filamentosa, produces enormous fan-shaped leaves. Cocos plumosa, a highly ornamental kind, with foathory foliage, does well. Latania corbonica or Livistona chinensis, a very handsome species with large broad fanshaped leaves, is fairly hardy. Cycas revoluta (the sago palm) is a slow-growing variety with stout stems, bearing a crown of very handsome fronds. In old plants the stem when 6ft or 7ft high, branches into soveral heads, giving the tree a unique and massive appearance. Jubsea Bpectabilis, is a remarkable species that dovelops a massive trunk. The abovo varieties provide ample scope for a good and varied selection, that would, when judiciously arranged, greatly add to the | beauties of our ornamental plantations. Tree Perns and Palms. Treo ferns aro suitable associates with palms. Both require special situations, succeeding best in sheltered hollows and deep gullies. Dracasna draco, the dragoon tree, is a very fine species, that may bo effectively used with the preceding, and in sub-tropical gardening. Cordylines or cabbage trees aro also appropriate, but unfortunately the scale insects referred to in last week's notes, has rendered them too uncertain in their growth. General Garden Operation:]. Tho last of tho leaves from tho various deciduous trees and shrubs havo about fallen, consequently a more tidy appearance may be maintained. Continue general planting operations, such as that of trees, shrubs, roses, and other permanent subjects; also, neraesias, dimorphothecas, antirrhinums, columbines, linarias, pansies, and other hardy varieties. Pansies havo many admirers; they aro well worth growing on account of their hardiness, and the- wonderful profusion in which their many-coloured flowers are pro--duced. Now is a good time to plant to produco strong clumps for early flowering. Violas are also popular with many growers; both pansies and violas are hotter renewed annually, as tho plants go off when tho hot dry summer weather sets in. Sweet Pea Cultivation. Sweet peas, when about 9in or less in height, should havo tho surface soil around them lightly stirred, and should have tho stakes or oilier supports attached. Dwarf hardy herbaceous plants, such as violets, primroses, daisies, polyanthus, echeverias, and others, that aro used for borders, and near tho edges of the flower beds, should be kept free from weeds by hand-weeding. Violets are benefited by thinning out somo of the superfluous foliage, and by the application of a stimulant. Lawns should receive attention during the winter months, taking out weeds and machining at intervals to keep tho grass short and sward even. KITOHEH GARDEN. During the last few weeks little, could be done in this department beyond hoeing and keeping down the weeds between young growing crops; for in spite of the cold sodden condition of tho soil some varioties of weeds grow so rapidly that numbers of young plants are destroyed if tho weeds are left unchecked. Freqount stirring of the soil, too, when favourable conditions will admit, assist to add warmth to the soil and facilitate growth. The working of the soil during tho wet winter months should be arranged with a view of keeping tho crop as dry as possible. With such crops as cabbage, cauliflower, and others of tho colewort family, this can be done by earthing up on either side and leaving a 'fairly deep trench in the centre of the rows.

Raised Beds lor Vegetables. In preparing beds for sowing such crops as onions, turnips, carrots, lettuce, spinach the bods at this season should always bo raised, so that there is five outlet for all surplus moisture. This system has the- advantage of allowing more air to penetrate and assist root action as well as preventing excess of moisture in the soil. In warm situations, particularly when the soil is of a free nature, small sowings of dwarf early peas, broad beans, as well as tho varieties above enumerated can be made. Planting Potato Onions,

Tho present is also a good time to plant potato onions. A few years ago many growers considered the shortest day was the only time to plant potato onions to obtain a successful crop. The potato onion is certainly a profitable crop to grow as they arc ready for use so early in tho season, and are so easily cultivated that anyone having a garden can grow them successfully. They should be planted in rows from* eighteen to two feet between each row, arranging the sets about six inches apart in the row, that is if the sets are good, if very small they can be arranged a little closer in the rows. The after-culture consists in keeping the ground clear of weeds, and when the plants are reaching a stage of maturity.a little earthing up can be done with advantage.

Preparing the Soil. As soon as the weather will admit and the soil is in a condition for working every spare plot should bo deeply dug and left rough, so that tho soil can thoroughly. sweeten in readiness for spring cropping. Rhubarb r>ots that have been in the ground over i»n> years should be lifted, tho crowns separated, and be replanted in ground that has been deeply trenched and thoroughly manured. Reasonably strong young plants, however with good treatment give better results than old divided plants. THE VINERY. If vines arc not already pruned no time should bo lost in performing this operation, as all vines can now bo pruned with safety. In our climate tho season of rest is of such short duration that it is best to prune immediately the sap has returned, as the longer rest 'they have after being pruned the better it is for the vines, as the wounds caused by the knifo has plenty of time to heal before the sap again becomes active. Many amateurs are afraid to prune while a leaf remains upon the vines; this, however, is a mistako, as many of the leaves will hang on the vines long after the sap has returned. Method of Pruning the Vines Tho safest plan before finally pruning is always to shorten back one of tho lower laterals on each vine, and if after a short time no sap exudes from the wound, pruning can be done safely. If on the other hand there is the slightest signs of bleeding, defer pruning until all danger of loss of sap is past. It must bo borne in mind that the return of tho sap is one of tho most important factors in the production of next season's crop, it is at that time that healthy roots arc framed and the food and strength stored for next season's work. After j pruning thoroughly dress the vines beforo rem6ving the loose bark with insecticide. This is necessary, as numbers of pests secrote themselves in tho looso bark and would probably fall to tho ground unless destroyed before finally stripping tho vines. KiTOS. GARDEN BINTS. Early Tomatoes. Early tomatoes can bo raised by any amateur, provided he makes a hot bed of stable manure in a corner of the garden. Place on this a shallow box about 12in high, or one cut on the slant, lEin at the top end and 12in at the bottom. Fill the box with from 3in to 4in of good soil, and on this sow the seed. Then cover with a few sheets of glass. When the seedlings are up take advantage of every fine day and lift the glass so as to harden them off. On cold, wet days, and also at nights, keep them well covered. Sow the seed thinly or the plants will grow spindly. Chemical Manures. The chemical manures used in gardens must supply three elements— acid, nitrogen, and potash. Most Australian soils need phosphoric acid, and this can be most easily applied as superphosphate or basic slag. Potash is best applied through the medium of sulphate of potash, ana nitrogen in the character of sulphate of ammonia or nitrate of soda. A good complete fertiliser for each plant for a season consists of a tablespoonful of nitrate of soda or sulphate of ammonia, and a handful of each of superphosphate and sulphate of potash. This composition may be used either as a liquid ,or scattered on the surface of tho ground, and lightly raked in within a radius of 3ft from the stock. Should the latter course be adopted, rain or artificial watering will soon dissolve the chemicals. The Parsnip, A nutritious and wholesome vegetable is this, if not a particularly popular ono. In many small gardens there is nothing to be seen in the way of vegetables but cabbage, and the parsnip comes as a most agreeable change. It delights in a deep, rich soil, but is generally put into any hungry stuff. The ground should be trenched at least 2ft deep, and a liberal supply of well-decayed manure placed in the bottom of each trench. The seed should be sown as early as the state of the soil will permit, for the parsnip requires a long season to come to full maturity. Thoso who possess a light, rich, free-working soil will have far less difficulty in producing good roots than others whoso lot it is to grow them on either poor, gravelly ground or that composed of stiff clay, as neither or theso is well adapted for" the formation of large, fleshy roots, the former being too porous for their growth and the latter so retentive that the roots cannot swell. Soil lor Seedlings. In preparing ground for raising seedlings of annual and other plants, whether to remain or be transplanted, the soil should be well worked and pulverised, and the bed made fairly firm. A quantity of light soil for covering tho seed should be prepared, that of a sandy and fibrous nature being best. If such soil is not available, an inch or so of the top of any light land, including the grass, should be stacked and dried. This can afterwards be beaten and sifted, and the rougher portions remove!. The remainder mixed with drv horn? droppings can be used for the purpose. The amount of soil covering necessary should be governed by the size of tho seeds sown, largo seeds requiring as much as an inch, small seeds only sufficient to cover them. The soil covering should be firmly pressed on the seeds and lightly watered. It is necessary to have tho surface of the seed bed slightly lower than tho surrounding soil to facilitate watering should dry weather occur.

Planting Roses. When rosea are planted they should be cut back hard, no matter how big the top. Tho object of this is to get good, sturdy growth in the first season, from which tho bush can be formed. To merely snip the ends off each shoot will tend to encourage a largo amount of thin, new growth, and few, if any, Rood blooms will bo produced the first year. Moreover, if all tho eves are left there will not be sufficient "roots to feed them, and tho wholo bush will suffer. Cut back standards to three or four eyes to each main shoot, or, if badly formed, cut the whole head back to within four eyes of the bnd. All damaged roots must be cut out and all eyes or briar shoots destroyed. Climbers should have all the side growths removed, and the main shoot should be tied in position, and from six to eight eyes should be left, the resulting shoots being thinned out l.y three or four as required for trellises or pillars. Own root roses should also be cut bark as soon as they are planted. After planting tread tho soil down firmly around the roots, and give oach rose a bucket of water. All rose bushes should be supplied with a stout stake to prevent them swaying with the wind. Blanching Celery. An Ameiican who specialises in intense culture upon half an acre by supplying extra quality vegetables to hotels and private houses, has adopted a method of blanching for which he claims originality. Going into the cellar one spring morning he noticed that the turnip tops had become perfectly white during tho winter. Immediately the thought came: If turnips will do this in the cellar, why won't celery in the field if I shut out tho light ? Experiments proved his theory tenable, ana now he is able to blanch only as much as he needs at a time, without the expenditure of money for boards for banking. His scheme is to place an arrangement just like a three-sided box directly over the row. This contrivance covers ten feet at a time, and as the celery blanches the whole is shoved alone with tho open ends stuffed so that no light can possibly enter. The process requires the whole of ten days for best results, but five or six will do if in a hurry.' Tho blanched crop is cut at the ground, trimmed, and bunched iu the ordinary manner, with three stalks to the bunch. The outer stalks aro stripped and the tops are fed to the hens, while the butts are greedily eaten by tlig cowsj

Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/NZH19140627.2.137.47

Bibliographic details

New Zealand Herald, Volume LI, Issue 15646, 27 June 1914, Page 4 (Supplement)

Word Count
2,597

THE GARDEN. New Zealand Herald, Volume LI, Issue 15646, 27 June 1914, Page 4 (Supplement)

THE GARDEN. New Zealand Herald, Volume LI, Issue 15646, 27 June 1914, Page 4 (Supplement)

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