POULTRY NOTES.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XLIX, Issue 15175, 14 December 1912, Page 11

POULTRY NOTES.

SIMPLE EGG-TESTER.

An efficient egg-tester, and one that is very easily made, is made of a cardboard box, such as a Quaker Oats box.

One end being cut off, the top edge is cut in a curve to fit the forehead, and the lower edge to admit the nose, so that the whole, when held over the eyes, is totally dark.

Now cut a hole in the middle of the opposite end, about the size of an egg, and over this glue a piece of soft leather or thick cloth, through which also cut a hole that an egg cannot slip through. This completes the tester, which can be used by day or artificial light, holding the teeter in front of the eyes towards the light. One hand against the end holds it in position, while fingers of both hands may fie used to revolve the egg if necessary. A tester as described is superior to one made of a tin, being more comfortable to use, and admitting of the use of both eyes without straining. Though rather late in tho season for eggs undergoing incubation, this appliance is well worth making, being very efficient either for that purpose or household use.

THROUGH THE CHICKS. A handy trough for little chicks is easily and quickly made out of a meat tin.

In openiug tho tin simply cut round it about one inch from one end.

Inverted V or V-shaped pieces are nowcut out of the larger portion of the tin, being an inch wide, and a thin wire or string is passed round the remaining points to draw them in slightly. This, when placed inside the shallow portion after tilling with food or water, keeps chicks from soiling or scattering samo. KILLING TABLE BIRDS. The old method of killing birds by the knife is fast dying out. It is such a slow process that few care to adopt it, and it is also somewhat unsightly. Dislocation of the neck is by far the best way, and is easily learned. First take the bird by the legs in the left hand and • with the neck stretched out; the right hand should be used for dislocation. This is easily done by ono or two sudden jerks in an upward direction. Of course, it is not learned all in a minute. There must be a certain amount of practice necessary before one becomes proficient. A GOOD POULTRY HOUSE. A good poultryhouse need not be expensive. Let it be as cheap as possible, but have it comfortable, draught-proof in winter and in Bummer as cool and airy as possible. Good ventilation does not mean a draught. Fresh air will not kill anything, but draughts will always produce colds. The house must bs kept clean. The droppings must not be allowed to accumulate until they prove offensive. Sand may be thrown over the droppings, which may be gathered every week. This manure is invaluable for the garden. CARE OF CHICKENS. A hen with her chickens should be placed for the first few days in a warm and nicely-sheltered corner. A little food may be given frequently to the young ones'; I but in such small quantities as may be eaten readily. The hen on the other hand must be well fed; otherwise, to satisfy her cravings for food, she will drag the i chickens on' their legs in search of it. Good whole maize is suitable for the hen; it will fill her craw quickly and content her. There is no need to give chickens a lot of stimulating food. In mass the food should be plain; but now and again titbits in the shape of hard-boiled egg and raw meat may be given. Such should be given only as a relish, and not to be their staple food. There is nothing much better than coarse-ground oatmeal for chickens, and this may be given either moistened with milk or be given dry. As the chickens increase in size and heartiness, such food as cracked maize, broken wheat> or crushed oats may be added to their menu. With green tender grass or other suitable green food, chickens should, at this season, do well. All that they now want is shelter from excessive sun, wind, or rain, good clean food and fresh water. With such conditions the birds should come on quickly, and be out of all their chicken troubles in a very short time. EGGS FOR HATCHING. Eggs for hatching must be kept in a place which is neither too warm nor too cold; a good temperature is from 40 to 60 deg»ee6 F., in which the air is neither disturbed nor vitiated; and to avoid any vibration, they should be placed the small end downwards on a layer of grain. .Thus stored, the eggs can remain for a fortnight to twenty days before being set for hatching. They mu3t not be put either in bran, sawdust, ashes, very dry sand or any other dry matter. The pores of the shell must not. be stopped up, for normal respiration is necessary to the life of the germ contained in the egg. Sawdust and ashes when dry absorb moisture and cause loss of the watery contents through the shell. Sawdust is, however, used for packing eggs to be forwarded for hatching; in that case slightly dampened sawdust should be used, and after unpacking, the eggs should be let to stand for at least one day before being set for incubation. Good eggs: The newest laid eggs are the best for hatching. They are known by their clear colour and the rough feeling of their shell, their gloss and the absence of an air space. When shaken in the hand, no movement of the contents is felt inside; finally, they sink in water.

PICKING THE LAYERS. The almost invariable conclusion to be gathered from the various competition fists is that the winners turn up from among tho small or medium-sized birds. The neat-headed, sharp-looking hen of medium size, fine in bone, is usually a good layer. The coarse-headed, thick-legged, big bird is rarely a good performer. This statement may be accepted as a fact, and any practical man will confirm it. The birds themselves tell you plainly what they are and what they can do. The small, active, scratching bird has neither the temperament nor the time to become sluggish and fat. She tells you that she is 110 good for meat. Hie big, slow-mov-ing heavyweight tells you that she is built to carry weight (meat). She is slow all over, and her thick legs clearly show that they are intended to carry weight, else, why are they there? Whatever the breed it is usually the case that the smaller hens arc the best layers, for thG physical and natural reasons just given. CROOKED BREASTED FOWLS. In the interesting scientific bulletin issued by tho Royal Agricultural College, Cirencester, an investigation into the causes of crooked-breasted fowls is reported. Tho measures that suggest themselves as likely to bo effective are precautionary or preventive. It ii? hardly necessary to point out that the valuo of the bird is greatly deteriorated when the breast is crooked, on account of the small quantity of llesh which it carries. Several theories have been advanced as to the cause, but no definite suggestion, supported by experiment, has been given. The causes suggested are: (1) Heredity; (2) loss of 6tamina through in-breeding; (3) allowing chickens to perch too early; (4) injury caused by the mother hen stepping on the young chicks. The Brown Leghorn, which is a variety prone to the defect, was chosen for the investigation. A well-known judge, writing on the subject, said that about 90 per cent." of all Brown Leghorn chickens grown for exhibition suffered from this fault due to careless breeding.