LONDON FASHION NOTES.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XLIX, Issue 14972, 20 April 1912, Page 6 (Supplement)

LONDON FASHION NOTES.

[FROM OCT OWX correspondent?.!] ..London', March 13. < Contrasts.Some of the, snugly-fitting straw shapes look quite'smart and fussy with a bushy gouran plume as a finish,; exactly the same shapes look , quite severe when the trimming consists or a minute pair of mercury wings, placed on either, side, fastened on with a* small' bead' cafoochon. These wee wings are in marked contrast to the tall feather erections-, .which, tower upward without. limit of height. Then, close to largo artificial flowers, on? sees trains and bunches? made in, the most minute editions of the same varieties, the materials used being satin ribbon or bright silk. Then, too, there aro small cockade finishes made of quilled : silk or satin ; their size is. so small that they have no ambition to tower even as high as the crown. They look stunted and strange placed next to a hat with tall trimming. Some of these cabochon finishes; too,* are of pleated mousseline do sot© of pleasing .softness. It oftena happens that generously-proportioned hats have very little trimming,' while the comparatively small shapes- lu.ro a great deal, especially when ribbon .bows are piled on with lavishhandi and when yards of taffetas silk aro 'manoeuvred to form unusual drapings. ' Tliero is still a tendency to pile the trimming up the back. Strawquills can be rather pretty, and a favourite devico of tho t milliner is to edge them round with a thick' but narrow silk fringo —fringes aro still important aids to millinery effects. ' Ono of the cockades to meet demand will bo that formed of the fronds of white feathers gathered in a bunch on ono side of the hat and knotted at the base. Then there is a feather trimming which, as has been remarked, does credit to the fertile ingenuity of the inventor ; it is made of ostrich of various tints and shades. Tho particular advantage of this accessory lie® in its economy. Any old ostrich mounts may bo used, a bunch of uncurled feathers being collected together, and the stems wound with wire; the tips are then cut off perfectly square so as to form an ornament in shape suggesting a cockade; the fronds are not curled, and tho ornament is laid against the upturned brim of a toque. Many are the new shapes that are more toques than hats, and lots of them are made with a full Tam-o'-shanter crown. This latter, so dear to the students of the Latin Quarter, is great in popularity in Paris at. the moment. Made of plain black velvet, or of the dark-bluo known as raven's wing, the beret is becoming to young people, and ought to be popular with English girls. Tam-o'-shanter crowns of velvet accompany brims of straw, but presently tho alliance will be one of shot silk and straw.

Paddy hats of soft white suede and soft white felt can still be worn, and the colour contrast of tho brim is quito attractive only a tiny cockade or wing or cluster of fruit is needed, in the way of trimming. Also, where something flat is preferred, quite a charming effect is produced by applying to the shape a spray of flowers in ribbonwork or silk; with these there is nothing to get out of order, and the -worked spray is very useful for- fitting the brim and keeping it at any desired angle.. There is no doubt, that one of tho favourites among moderately large hats will be the Lamballa shape, whoso delicate curve outlines the face before drooping over the ears: of crown there is not much bo speak about, .and the trimming is kept rather low, bauds of velvet ribbon and trails of flowers'; being stretched across the top of the hat; while the .brim underneath has an outlined band of_ dark velvet which is so becoming, whether of black or,of darkgreen or of crimson or blue, so long as it agrees with the outside trimming. Often suggestive of wings are the tall erections made of taffetas,, and a wing-bow of chang"rug silk or of gauzy transparency brighteened s by. metallic threads is a popular choice for the early days of spring. All these trimmings use up a good many miles of wire in a week.

Basket straw is liked because of its open weave; the shape is lined with a colour, and this in addition to improving the complexion looks pretty from tho outside ; the pattern, is,, pronouncedly open. It". is remarked that what in Paris is known as English : straw is most in demand thero at the* moment. It-consists of a fine, close, flexible plait* which .in black is. capable of treatment in many ways., . One; shape of this straw, well liked, lias rather a low crowi», with a brim which is some eight indies wide ou the left side,-where it is turhed abruptly against tho crown, and is vary. narrow in front as welt as on the, right; side. . Tho trimming is a tall cluster 1 of-feathers in-black or white fastened in at' the right side. One v docs hot have to go very far before the tendency is noticed for. hate : to be a little-, tilted' down on the right side, the trimming being placed' low on this side _if it does not point high in an upward direction.

A very smart model, typical of the now mode, is sketched here, Tli.* costume is trimmed with buttons, and is carried out in hn<> grey tweed. . It is almost severe in •La cut, while it has no collar.

m^r° V vi " shown . a dainty hand-made SSi ?iav' ia m Irish csoch< * i " d