LONDON FASHION NOTES.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XLIX, Issue 14925, 24 February 1912, Page 6 (Supplement)

LONDON FASHION NOTES.

• [FEOII Or/B OWN COBnESPOKDENf.'I London, January 12.' i Much to Answer Tor. ! Cekatoks of fashions and rulers of the many departments have numerous responsibilities thrust upon them. Wo all know the sorry story of tho material manufacturer and of the underskirt-maker, who complain loudly of the unemployment consequent upon tho diminished amount of stuff needed for modern dress, and now a suppliant cry ascends from the artificial florist who complains of diminished business because tho -milliners have.. been r using fewer flowers "as trimmings; We" J are told that the artificial dower trade is j .oaa,.af,.thiv most important of Parisian in: L4^iri<;f;inirdb3 i brtfc&to r much-worn unadorned style of hat brought j '.villi it terrible, distress to ;tlie trade. . A 1 writer-or. the spot says ,■. that the annual. I export ■■- .Artificial dowers from; Franco {'dropped . so* materially "that tho president I ioLtbe syndicate chamber;.'of. the flower and. ;featber "trade, estimates J a 'wages loss of ! £640,000.* ■'. ,'."'" It is,, however, comforting to be able to state that lots of artificial lowers will bo required for thja spring- millinery, and no doubt by degrees there will bo recovery from tho period of acute depression. In a small way, dowers are already being used again, for there is considerable demand for trails of miniature blooms and foliage, made always of satin ribbon. No one will deny that very few (towers have boon wanted by the milliner, and no one will pretend that the ilerai evening dress garnitures have enjoyed tho success of former day*. But, on the other hand, there has been a constantly-increasing demand for the artificial chrysanthemum, the poinsettia- and the giant carnation for house decoration, also for the scented artificial bouquet for tucking into the corsage I of tho evening bodice, and into the front of the walking dress and tailored suit. [ The artificial .Malnnusons and roses and J bouquets of violet*, all duly scented, posI sess many advantages over the real blooms, and tho demand is an ever-in-|.creasing one. The price is high, and this, 1 of course, means that the demand can only come from the well-to-do, whereas with artificial millinery blooms the demand comes from every"class in the land. However, we are premised a plentiful supply of flowers for the spring millinery ; blossoms of fruit trees, with their knotty branches, will appeal'to some buyers; tufts of artificial grass and moss will be used as beds in which to set other flowers, while a perfectly-made artificial fern will to some extent take the place of the aigrette. As the spring brings forth each successive floral species, so will the milliners bring out the corresponding duplicates. Then, no doubt, all will be "gas and gaiters" in artificial flower land. Not only will flowers be wanted, but so will flower petals, for which the French mill-, iners have found a new position of .much importance. Prepared for tho South of France—the destination just now of all that is dainty and novel—was a picture shape made of gathered taffetas, in silvergrey," its high upturned-brim lining being of row upon row of superposed rose petals of a most becoming pink, a cluster of large pink roses being used to bold in position the. draped silk of the —hats of gathered taffetas, chiefly of the- •" beret" and " Tam-o'-shanter" * variety— be among the fancies of the spring, so that the threatened rise in the price of the best-class straws need not be a disturbing element, while attractive substitutes are to be fcund.

Shoulder Capes. These and hoods are very generally seen on day wraps and evening wraps* as well as occasionally on evening dress and day dresses. The long wraps as worn in Pans are of ratine or the still newer zibeline. The latter is a- very supple and loosely woven fabric of fine soft wool with long hairs on the surface which impart a. furry effect. Ratine is woven with. reversible effects that are endless, therefore it is an economical stuff, as it provides its own trimmings and requires no lining. Zibeline, on the other hand, demands a lining of silk, and so do all the other woollen materials. Hence, there latter are reserved for the smarter occasions, ratine being relegated to the realms of usefulness. In London, the double and triple shoulder-cape is establishing its position in Paris, that position'has already been established, and its - success -is not leaving a great deal of room for- the sailorcollar and the capuchin hood. A French cape-cloak of dark navy ratine ; Was reversed with dark crimson. It was quite a new shape, being made with a, highwaisted bolero .jacket to which was- attached the long, narrow skirt of the cloak. The neck was finished with a small turneddown collar of dark blue velvet that was crossed high over a round pelerine that covered the shoulders, but was cut away in .front to reveal on the bust double rows of small dark-blue velvet buttons circled with a piping of crimson. Although the capo is having so much its own way, it is not without regret that we pass over- in its favour the capuchin, hood effect that does make rather a graceful tapering line down between the shoulders. The front of most of the wraps still follows the long slanting line, fastening | over at one side below the- waist; the choice of the wrap with a large rolled collar, .of fur or wide rovers of fur or velvet, fastening . down very low on the left side and crossing almost to the left hip ; is still quite orthodox. Below the cross-over fastening, however, there is a change to bo .noted, for the cloak of a year ago fell sheer to the ground in a straight line. i\ow the cross-over portion is cut away on the bias, and often the under side- is treated similarly, a method which gives a light and youthful appearance. While the wrap easy to get into is the ono wanted the year-old pattern will not be hurriedly discarded.

A simple and pretty style of hair dressing for the evening. A band is worn well down on the forehead of Oriental embroidery to match the dress.

A pretty picture hat of Dunstable straw, with black velvet lining. Simply trimmed with bunches of. cherries and their foliage.