THE UREWERA COUNTRY.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XLVIII, Issue 14666, 28 April 1911, Page 4

THE UREWERA COUNTRY.

ITS CHARACTER AND POSSIBILITIES. BY P. KEEOAX. The Urewera country is at present an almost unknown land, as far as the pakeha is concerned. It contains about 1,500,000 acres of forest country, and is situated in the Whakatajne and Opotiki Counties. Its most northern boundary is shown on the map by a, line running east from Mount Edgecumbe, and known as the confiscation line. This line runs nearly parallel with the coast of the Bay of Plenty, from which it is about 14 miles distant. Its southern boundary reaches to tho beautiful Waikaramoana (sea of the rippling water). The Urewera country is drained by the Rangitaiki, Whakatane, Waimana, Waiotahi, Waioeka, and Otara Rivers, which all flow into the eastern end of the Bay of Plenty. The alluvial soil brought down by these rivers has formed the rich Opotiki and Opouriao fiats, which are farfamed for their maize and grass-growing qualities. Tho Rangitaiki River has spread its. share of the spoil over Aw area, of about, 100,000 acres, of what is nowknown as the Rangitaiki swamp; but which in the near future will be known as the Rangitaiki - Plains, and will be producing as much per acre as any other land in the Dominion. All these alluvial flats have been proved to milk a cow to the acre, and in favourable seasons Have averaged from 20 to 25 sacks of maize, while crops of 50 sacks to the acre are not unknown. , The Start. The farmers who are working these rich flats were not slow to reason that the land must be good where all this rich soil came from, but, farmer-like, they followed their daily round from seed time to harvest, and from harvest to seed time, while the great Urewera country, lying at their very doors, cried in vain for the footstep of the explorer. To lift the veil that has hung for so long over this great forest country a party of Whakatane and Opouriao settlers set out on February 23, 1911, to explore the country from a farmers' point of view. Their object being to ascertain the quality of the soil, tho quantity and quality of its timber, its possibilities for loading, and its general adaptability for settlement. Passing the rapidly-growing town of Taneatua in the eady morning our little party soon left the beautiful Whakatane Valley, with its snug homesteads behind, and followed up a tributary ftillcd the Waimana, Reaching the Waimana settlement about 10 o'clock we kept steadily on until about mid-day, when the edge of the bush was reached. Here we called a halt for the mid-day meal. Resuming our journey we pushed on again, our way leading us up the bed of the river. Hero and there we, crossed little flats of a few acres each. On each side of the river the bush spread far and wide, reaching to the tops of the highest hills. We had left the open country far behind, and for the next three days, with the exception of Maori clearings, we saw nothing but bush reaching from ridge to ridge, as far as the eye could reach. Just before sundown vre came, upon a deserted Maori clearing <:4 about- 200 acres. The grass was kneideep, so we decided to camp for the nigh*. Turning our horses on to the rich waving ' grass we soon made ourselves comfortable, A swim in the river was our first luxury. I Then, while the billy boiled, we gathered apples from a grove close by; Great red j beauties, they lay on the ground in heaps j with no one to gather them. On making "a start next morning we. took a supply of the fine ripe apples with us, but it was like taking coals to Newcastle. The further we went the more apples we saw. Everv few miles we came to an old Maori clearing, where Maoris had lived during the war. Every clearing had its apple grove. Tons of beautiful apples were to be seen. The trees were all loaded down, while great heaps of fruit lay on the I ground, no sign of codlin moth or pests of any kind. We also saw peach and plum | trees, but their season was over. The Waimana Valley, Our second day was still up the Waimana River, and a beautiful ride it was. We were passing through lovely country all the way-— beautiful valley, running due south." Good rich soil, well watered, and well timbered, a valley that will some day gladden the heart of many a sturdy bush settler. Scattered along this valley wo saw several mobs of young cattle, all in the pink of condition and all owned by Rua." We also met a team of 22 packImrses, each carrying two sacks of cocksfoot seed, which had been harvested at the prophet's stronghold, Maungapohatu. About two o'clock we came to a small Maori settlement, called Tawhiti. This was the first settlement we had fallen in with since reaching the bush. A few Maoris live here. It is a sort of half-way house, between the Waimana pa and Matingapohatu. After leaving Tawihi, we followed the valley for a mile or so. The track then lead away to the right, and we started on -what proved to be about as rough and as steep a climb as any of us had ever been on. For about two hours the track kept climbing a razorback ridge. Here the land was very steep. It fell straight away to the Whakatane watershed on our right, and the Waimana on the left, while as far as the eye could reach all around was nothing but dense bush. After leaving this watershed we had a long rough scramble down a very steep ridge, until we struck the Waikare, a tributary of the Whakatane. Darkness overtook us as we were dragging our tired horses up the Waikare, and just as man and beast were feeling about done, we came out on "to a Maori clearing, where lived an old man, his wife, and grown-up family. Here we got a real old time Maori welcome, and right glad we all were, ■ In Rua's Country. A wet morning saw us early on a slip- ; pery track, which led through Rua's clearing at Maungapohatu. This clearing contains about 4000 acres, and has been felled by the faithful followers of the prophet. The land is of excellent quality, and has all been laid down with cocksfoot. This clearing is very irregular in shape. It follows the valley for about six miles, and runs up into the easy country along all the small creeks. Viewing it from the top of the hill it looked like a great spider. The threshing floors dotted over it for miles puts one in mind of Banks Peninsula. The seed is very similar to the Peninsula seed— fine straw and good full heads. Judging by tho stubble the Maoris must have reaped a verv good crop A visit to the threshing floors*was enough to make a Peninsula man sorry. Most of the seed seemed to have been cut on the green side, and a lot of it had been threshed on damp or dull davs. In many cases half the seed was loft "in the strawWe could not ascertain the number of sacks harvested by the Maoris. A lot of it had been kept for their own use We heard that Rua got BJd per pound for what he packed out into civilisation We turned aside at Maungarx>hatu to see Rua's settlement, which stands on a wind-swept hill side. Here lingers the last remnant of tho old-time Maori. The wind is starting to strip the shingles from the roof of Rua's famous round house. We saw about 200 paling huts, scattered along the hill side, small temporary affairs and all deserted. About 20 weird-looking' natives came out of a group of whares near the round house and stared at the pakeha with wondering eyes. We crossed a fairly turbulent stream, which is one of the'head branches of the Whakatane River, and struck a -designed track, which led up hill and down, mile after mile through never-ending bush.. Here and there we would see a rich little valley, with Heavy clumps of rnstai, rimu. and kaihikatea, and her® and there also a small grass clearing, with a few deserted, jUimbledown huts. . ,ln^ffl^yq3^.^!S^|rack " \ T i ""

a small settlement, which rejoices in the name of Waikmakino. Here a party ot Maoris- were herding a . mob of cattle, which th 'V said were owned by Rua. We saw abort 30 fine bullocks, all fat-. The Maoris said some day they would take them to Taneatua for the butcher, but-, " taihoa. plenty time." Good Timber and Land. After a long scramble we struck a wellformed road, which runs from Ruutahuna 1 to Waikaremoana. We were then within 1 about eight miles of the lake. Turning 1 to the right we followed a well-graded i road, which leads to Ruatahuna, . and foi ; several miles we trudged on loading our tired horses. We passed through several ' black birch forests. The trees were about ' 6ft through, and grew on the highest and toughest of the country; while we saw some splendid matai on the easier slopes. i The bush along the road side for about ( 20 miles had been felled for a width of about one chain. We took particular notice of the giant birch and matai logs, " which had been felled, sawn off, and rolled off the road. They were solid right to the , very centre; We did not see the smallest hollow in any of the logs. Sometime in tho arfternoon we struck a valley that 1 would gladden the heart of any land- ' hunter: Old Maori clearings were seen all along with grass knee deep, but no Maoris were to be seen. Along this valley ■ we saw a lot of first-class milling timber, ' chiefly matai, rimu, and kaihikatea. We came out on to the Matatua clearing, at ' a place, called Kiritahi. Here a road from the Whakatane Valley will some day junci tion with the Ratorua-Gisborne Road, and , here some day will spring up one of the . largest inland towns in New Zealand. But | with the grip of the "taihoa" upon the ' land which of us will live to see it? From 1 this on the country got easier again, and I seemed a bit fighter along the road side. i Maori cultivations become more frequent, ■ and at last after five more weary miles we arrived at Ruatahuna just as darkness set in, drenched, weary, and hungry after a 12 hours' battle with the elements. A friendly looking Maori pointed out Mr. 1 Baillie's accommodation house, where we I found a hearty welcome. Here the young > Maoris told us of several large clearings * away back in the bush now deserted, i where the natives had lived during the war. These clearings, they said, were all ' in grass, hundreds of wild cattle roam over > them and keep the second growth down, so • that the grass holds its own. ' From Ruatahuna to Te Teko. 5 Our intention whim setting out was to come home down the Whakatane River, * but as the river was in flood this was out • of the question. So next day we said ; ' farewell to our genial host and started for Galatea. The road led upwards for about three hours, until we reached the Tara- ' ponamu ridge. Here a magnificent sight met our gaze. The day was fairly clear. ' In front we could see away across the ; Kaiangaroa Plains towards Taupo. Look- , ing back we could see Maungapohatu and the country stretching away towards Gis- ' borne and Wairoa. To the right and left 5 we could see nothing but dense bush, - stretching ridge after ridge, as far as the i eye could reach. We were now on the . divide between the Whakatane and Rangitaiki watersheds. About two hours brought us to the Whirinaki stream, which runs into t' .o Rangitaiki. Hero we heard of a ! great forest of totara, but did not see it. I We followed this stream down for a ! couple of miles, and then soon got out on t to fern country. Here the good land seems to end. From here to Te Teko, a distance of about 50 miles, we followed down the ! left bank of the Rangitaiki. With the ' exception of some very rich river flats the - country can only be described as poor. It r is nearly all ploughable, and no doubt m j the future when the rich land of the Rangitaiki swamp is all drained and occupied I th® fanners will turn their eyes towards ; this light country ; and with a proper sys- - torn of tillage and fertilising, and perhaps , irrigation they will be able to turn it into r valuable country for root crops. But the ' time is not yet. That night we camped on a rich bend of the Rangitaiki, The • next day, after a long toil, we reached Te I Teko and. civilisation. The next day we [ had an easy march to Whakatane and } home. : Character of the Country. r r We were well satisfied with, our trip, ' although on account of the weather it - turned out a rather strenuous one. The ; country -we passed through during the first 1 three days was of most excellent quality. > It will carry both sheep and cattle. Some 5 of the country was certainly very steep, > but every .acre will be useful sheep coun- » try. It is exactly the same as the Gisborne • back-country, only lying as it does on th© * northern slope, and falling away into the i Bay of Plenty, it will enjoy a far better climate. We saw no fern on the bush clearings, and some of them were over 50 years old, and wherever cattle had been - running the grass had taken charge. We . saw plenty of building timber on the way r through, „quito ample for local requirel ments, but nothing to speak of for export. , Although there could easily be lstrge forests i of timber there that we could not see. The j country is all well watered by running ,- streams, and is well adapted for cuttingl up into from 500 to 1000 acre sections. In 1 some places smaller lots could, perhaps, - be cut" up to advantage. There would be - ample fencing and building timber on i most of the selections. The bush is not . heavy, consisting of tawa, matai, konini, I hinau, with plenty of underacrub and sups plejack. Scattered through the bush there l is a fair amount of larger timber, such as j rimu, rata, matai. and kahikatea, with r plenty of good, solid birch away back on - the very high ridges. We saw an odd - totara, and were told by the natives that a there are some good patches in some locali--1 ties, but we saw nothing of them. The t> country could be very easily roaded: l The £ river and creek beds are shingly and fairly s open. A dray road could be cleared up . the bed of the rivers for about 20 miles 1 with but little expense. Metal will be - plentiful and very easily got. Our second i day's journey took us right through the I sctitre of j the land recently inquired by a the Government. This is all good land, a, but the general opinion was that the Gor vernment. had given too much for it. By , the time that this country has been thrown 3 open and roaded it will have a load on it 1 that a poor man will hardly be able to i carry. At present it is not a poor man's » country. Of course the advent of the Bay a of Plenty railway and freezing works will 5 work wonders in*the near future, but these i blessings have not come yet. In the meantime the man without capital on this counI try will have to languish. Under present : i conditions and prices the man who takes ' >-*> this country will need about £1 of 1 bis own capital'behind him for every acre . of land -he takes- un. That is if he wishes j to do slice to himself and his family and to "the district. In the future there a will be no doubt about the success of this s bush countrv. The wealth is undoubtedly t in the soil, but the settler-must be put on 1 under the best conditions for getting it out. I