LONDON FASHION NOTES.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XLVII, Issue 14453, 20 August 1910, Page 6 (Supplement)

LONDON FASHION NOTES.

[FHOU OUR OWN* COBMSI'ONDENT.]

Loxdon', July 8. In* every department of dress sooner or litter something in the nature of a "freak ' makes an appearance. At the moment it is found most decidedly in tho jsuwehade department, for the crook—which usually forms the handle—-has preferred to poke its way through the roof of the sunshade and so to form an unaccustomed feature of the landscape. The end that is held is nothing moro that a thick, straight stick, tied up with bows and loops of ribbon to hide its barren condition. In shape, the sunshade is sometimes eccentric, tor when open its outline consists of a. series of indented curves, rendered more noticeably by an outlining of hanging fringe of beads or silk. Frills, too, are introduced on to the root- - frills and ilounces are asserting themselves quietlv but with persistence in quite a number of ways, and presently wo shall iind ourselves swathed in ilounces and trills right up to tho waist if the present rate of progress be maintained. Apart from the curious novel features of the parasol —which had a first airing at Ascot—there are many examples which are simple and pleasing. It is the rule that, the shade and the dress shall match—ordinarily this is an exacting and expensive fashion, but at. the moment so little* el?e is seen than black, mauve, and grey, that the private store of parasols does not require to bo so extensive as usual. Biscuit-coloured grog-grain silk accounts for many of tho most pleasing, and for these the demand is considerable as the colour allies itself with natural Shantung, and so much of this silk is used by tailors and dressmakers, "touched" with black. As a decoration near the edge, sprays and garlands of light mauve (lowers are very ethvtive, made usually of satin, raised from the foundation. The satin flowers impart an air of importance to the sunshade as they also do to millinery when made of soft, material and are of good shape. White satin roses and leaves trail round the edgo of black satin sunshades, white shades are garlanded with mauve, while the same colour looks effective on certain kinds of grey. Muslin sometimes mingles with the petals of satin. Many of the shades are lined, particularly those to bo used with lingerie dresses, in which case tho cover will be of drawn net or laee or broderie, and the colour inside will with accord with the dress. Care must, however, be exercised to avoid any colour trying to the complexion. (Jreen. for instance. cannot bo recommended to show to advantage the complexion, certain of the new blues are cold and strong and trying and most unkind near the skin, therefore recourse is had to a touch of pink eomewhero where tho lined sunshade is wanted. At a recent wedding tho bridesmaids did not carry bouquets, neither did they choose crooks ; each preferred to cany a parasol with long Directoire handle, to which were attached bunches of Marechal Xiel roses. The modern bride is always trying to think of some feature which will be a novelty, and this is no light la-sk taking into consideration the hundreds of society weddings which occur in London even* month,

A THBKATEXKD ItKVJVAT.. An attempt—a feeble one so far—is being made to revive the dolman, or dolman tape ; few of the models shown come below the elbow, and none of them confine the arms in the rigid manner of years gone by. The materials need are attractive, including taffetas—plain, striped, patterned—knitted silk. net. and lace ; while colours are not by any means absent. The veiled tendency is noticeable even where the dolman is concerned, and liberal use is made of silk as a bordering. Rather an attractive and shapely model was of black taffetas draped in folds across the anns and shoulders ; the back was made like a little, pleated coat, the pleats reaching below the waist ; long stole ends in front reached the knees. To make sure of the snug lit at the, hack, a cord passed on the outside of the waist pleats, which was tied in front, though the fastening was hidden by the stole ends. The idea is that the fanciful dolman should accompany the lingerie gown. Curious are those made of knitted silk, outlined with a deep fringe of the same ; the pattern selected must- ho an open one, so that the li»ure and the dress show plainly through the wide meshes, for there is no lining. There are knitted coats, too, of tsilk, but these cannot approach for daintiness the many fanciful wraps of filmy material. In Paris some little capes made of faced cloth or biege have put in an appearance. At the moment they seem heavy, although the texture is thin ; pastel tints are used, all of delicate colours. These capes vary in length, for somo reach to the waist while others merely cover the shoulders; backs and fronts are either rounded or pointed, and the neck is finished with a collar or lace or one of black satin. So far these little capes are rather bashful about letting themselves be seen. Black satin shoulder scarves lined with white and finished with long silk tassels at each end have caught the popular fancv. and they are a good deal worn with dresses of white muslin. Lighter and more seasonable seem to be the scarves of net either in ivorv, white, or black, worked with embroidery designs either in gold or in oxidised silver thread. Attendants at garden parties do not seem happy unless wearing a shoulder scarf of an important feather ruffle. White marabout makes a pretty and soft border to the stole-scarf of chiffon or soft satin, and a third band placed down the middle breaks the width.

A prett-v afternoon frock ol oyster grey cashmere. Tho Oriental trimming is worked in dull greys with a, touch of rose, pink. L'nder sleeves of tinest lawn with daintilyworked cull's, and collar of the same.

A simple turban toque of ash grey poplin with a cluster of rosebuds in a shade of vivid green at one side;,