LONDON FASHION NOTES.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XLVI, Issue 14223, 20 November 1909, Page 6 (Supplement)

LONDON FASHION NOTES.

[from our OWN CORRESPONDENT.] London, October 8. " THE DOTXAR PRINCESS." ' Miss, Lily Elsie, who is taking the part of the Dollar Princess in the play of that name, appears in some lovely toilettes. In one lovely blue laveuse drees, the blue silk washerwoman draperies, which are posed over a white lace skirt, flounced and tied with white satin ribbons, are opened at the back like an apron, to show the lace, 011] of the new characteristics of fashion. Worn with the frock is a pretty cabriolet hat of glossy grey-blue beaver, with blue velvet trimming and a clump of pink roses. Again and again the rose-clump idea is noticed. Just now it is immensely fashionable as a corsage ornament upon a background of autumn foliage. . In her full dress robe of palest pink tulle, shimmering with diamante embroideries.. Miss Lily Elsie looks a veritable princess. It is a radiant toilette, upon silver tissue, with hints of pale blue beneath the pale rose pink.

The moonlight looks .is if it had been caught in Miss Emmy Wehleu's gown of the last act, which is of the close clinging order. The colour of the shot satin used is now pale green, now grey. Silver threads and cabuchons trim it, and silver lace is

used, with palest green chiffon, upon the corsage. With it is worn an evening mantle, of marvellous beauty, made of bronze-green velours couple, gathered at the edge on to a Bounce of bronze satin, richly embroidered in bronze and gold. The sleeves are full and gathered, and there is a large collar and a cabuchon of bronze satin as the finishing touch.

Another of her exquisite gowns is an evening dress of cream satin, the skirt of which opens in front to disclose a panel | of rich embroidery wrought in gold threads and large pink cabuchons and pearls. The pink is the shade of pomegranate seeds from the verv heart of the fruit. About the shoulders floats a scarf-like drapery, extended to the tiny sleeves, of black tulle diamante, and on the head *'icarf is worn to match, finished by a big U»w. ;/; SHIRTS OF A SUBSTANTIAL FABRIC. I Where the weather is uncertain it is just as well to have washing blouses of lingerie, linen, and so forth, as well as heavier tailor-made shirts of delaine, silk, and like materials. A wool taffeta, light, firm* smooth, and of a taffeta weave, is one of the new materials. Crepe de chine id always a good resource, for, while the dressy blouse is definitely of the past, th blouse of a more or less elaborate type and the simple shirt for ordinary wear are as necessary as ever. ; The general tendency of the tailor-made shirt during the past year has been towards fewer pleats and plainer effects, but this is not becoming to all figures. An extra pleat or two will often make a world of difference in the wearer's appearance, and the trimness of the waist should always be considered.

Even ho'plainest shirt has, at least, one pleat, on the shoulder hiding the line in front of the armband' this severe one-pleat model with- a narrow box-pleat in the middle of the front and small patch or buttoned flan breast pockets, is very well liked for heavy washing materials. The sleeve is a plain shirt model with a wrist-band, and a separate collar or tailor-made stock is worn, or in the case of a linen shirt a turn-down collar.of the linen. .

A capital method of washing chintzes or the favourite printed linens which are so frequently used in upholstery nowadays is to first lay the loose covers to soak in cold salt and water so as to set the colours. When these have soaked 12 hours they should be removed, the moisture wrung out, and the covers placed in the copper, in which four-penny-worth of bran has been boiled in water for about five minutes. They should be well rubbed and squeezed in the, bran water until all the dirt has been eliminated, when they: should be taken out and plunged again * into salt '-water and left for some little time. If this is done carefully, not a vestige of the colour will wash out or even fade, and the covers will emerge from their bran bath as fresh and clean as - when new. -v?