LONDON FASHION NOTES.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XLVI, Issue 14157, 4 September 1909, Page 6 (Supplement)

LONDON FASHION NOTES.

[from ouh. own COBBESrONDENT.]

London, July 17. the " fishwife" IN TAIIIS. According to the latest, information from Franco, tho fishwife" draperies are achieving a veritable triumph in Paris, rather unexpectedly so. These are introduced in a variety of different ways, not tho least piquant of which is the dress of spotted foulard, with lawn or lace turnover collar, buttoned up at the back as far as the waist, and girdled with a fringed ribbon sash, hanging in long ends over the drapery. Beneath is- the draped skirt put into deep folds, while the sleeves are of elbow length, turned back, with lace or lawn cuff.-:, and tho whole effect is that of a little dress of the eighties, withthe essentially modern feature to relieve it. Plain and checked materials are said to be very freely used in Paris for these frocks, some of the Princess example with "fishwife" drapery being carried out very originally in plain' blue serge, with kilts of blue and white foulard, and a square empiecoment of the same introduced at the neck, and outlining the little tucked vest. Far less pleasing is tho scheme whereby folds of drapery arc tightly arranged aboVe the knees, and then bunched into a knot behind, where they are secured with a large buckle as if they had been drawn up to show the embroidered tablier which finds a promi- ; nent place in the front of the skirt. Some of those Princess robes are fastened down one eide, instead of at the back, with a 6eries of tiny buttons, which are arranged in sets of three.

Pleated skirts in some form are still liked; the material is always thin— gauze, grenadine, zephyr, etc. Sometimes tho pleats are stitched down over the hips, the line of stitching forming a diagonal point carried back to front on either side. The backs of the skirts are not so tightfitting as to be dragged across the figure, and at the sides and front the up-to-date skirt falls in natural folds to the hem. The corselet skirt ie much worn, generally accompanied by a blouse of lace, the latter finished with braces of moire carried across the shoulders and holding the upper part of the corselet in position. Some of the corselets rise high in a point in front, but finish in a straight line across, the back. Another skirt is made very tight and plain to just above the . knees, and then a full and deep frill continues its length to the feet. Rather curious are the models whose bodico and upper skirts are cut in one and embroidered almost nil over, the lower portion being of different material of similar tone ; a grey dress, for instance, had the upper half of silk, and the lower part of closely pleated voile, which formed the quite short-looking skirt. Skirts of sensible walking length are, by the way, growing daily Vin popularity none of them touch the 'ground. , NEW POINTED CORSAGE. There is a new pointed corsage which appears to be appealing" to those who are responsible for late models. This corsage has something the effect of an immensely wide Swiss belt, describing a sharp point over the jupe, while it is cut straight across the bust where it meets the gathered underbodice. Where the dress is of a spotted or, fancy material this deep empiecement is, usually made of plain stuff, and a curious and somewhat, bizarre effect was produced in the case of a foulard dress in /spotted blue and white, whose pointed corsage was of fine blue cloth, moulded smoothly over the hips, bust, and waist", and fastened down on one side with a serried row of buttons made of blue velvet. the CUIRASS. The cuirass style of gown has brought about a vogue for an effective trimming made of net covered with embroidery and other materials. A favourite dress' a girl is in the shape of a fitted cuirass, which extends to the hips and terminates in a knife-pleated skirt. The former is made of coarse net, covered with a flat embroidery of silk soutache, and the latter is of messaline, with a scroll of the soutache outlining the top of the hem. The dccolletage is outlined wit a flat band of Valenciennes lace or a tucker of fine white net run through with a coloured ribbon. This frock is fastened down the back with lace buttons.