LONDON FASHION NOTES.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XLV, Issue 13925, 5 December 1908, Page 6 (Supplement)

LONDON FASHION NOTES.

• CIVICM OV& OWN OOBRESrONUENT.] London, October 23. Blue has, been a favourite colour for a long while, and it is going* to remain popular. One of the new shades is the clear, vivid tint known as "Eugenie." This is a facsimile of the old-fashioned blue which in the days of the Second Empire was frequently "worn by the bride of Napoleon 111. Another new colouring is represented by a rich tone of red, something between framboise, and old rose. It has been called elderberry. Among purples there Is a bluish-purple shading with a. dash of grey in its composition—this has been called '" midnight" purple. We still have plenty of useful greys of the "London smoke'' variety, which have bw.n variously termed "mole," "elephant,-' etc., but which are now known as " heron grey." In all tints this is a useful colour for London, and it looks in good **sf« m all materials ranging from cloth, silk, and velvet. It is often combined by milliners with peacock blue. Greens and oluce of the peacock gamut make a splendid show everywhere; the only drawback is that they are being done to death in inferior materials and in inferior localities. Instead of being used with "judgment, all tones of these colours are plastered a'no'.t in lavish prolusion, until we arc g"owirg a little tired of thorn. Mores the pity, for both, used with judgment, are so effective and pleasing, parti Jtt'irly in the soft satins and facecloths an i ve.vits of the present season. Milliners are tuning out whole hats made of peacock silk, smothered with wings to match, until some of the windows constitute sueh a study in peacock blue and green that one feels* it would bo a relief never 10 met>t any of these" shades again. ll Dahlia and chrysanthemum colourings are «11 faithfully copied in every class of material, tue former in wine tailings and deep glowing crimsons and richest reds. The latter in shades of terra-cot and tan that are at the moment in great request; ji fact, there is quite a rage for them. A very bright tan-coloured. costume closely [ veiling' on orange, has ceased to be remarkable in the one cannot like it. Dead-leaf greens are often pleasing," and so are the misty blues. Shades of red include the tomato colour, atibergin, cauricum, and melon. Then fruits such as plum, apricot, and nectarineall contribute to the variety of colour to be seen in the newest materials for day and evening wear. Of deep cream tints there -are*many, converging to champagne; generally, iliey are termed " old lace." Colours* which* look best by firelight or electric light are, naturally, selected for the short winter afternoons, and a delicate old rose, a pale tender green, and even a rich ochre ; are all ■ pressed into service now. Ottoman silk with its ribbedr.surface and its -rich, glossy texture, will be one of the favourite materials all through the autumn, alike tor gowns and for millinery, and its colourings are delightful. For separate coats, too, it is being used, carried out on Directoire lines.

Thus, a model gown was of the fine smooth cloth in the shade called prunella— a soft tone of plum colour, something like the bloom on the skin of a black grape. This skirt fits closely round the hips, but at the. hem there was a certain amount of fulness i where rit .was trimmed with a eroas-way band. of Ottoman silk and finish ed in front with wide revcrs of cloth caught back by large buttons. The Directoire coat was quite tight-fitting. At the side it was trimmed with silk-covered buttons and a number of loops made out of the same silk, while in front it opened to show a waistcoat of white moire, fastened with small gold buttons. Very characteristic of the Directoire period were the double lapels with which the plum-colour-ed silk coat was finished, the Sower lapels being made of Ottoman silk, and the upper one of black fatin. edged with a band of cloth to match the skirt. , The tight-fit-ting sleeves were lavish with buttons as trimming along the outer arm, while a band of black satin made a finish at the wrist. . *

The new linen gowns present many varieties of style. Although simply .made they are finished with a dainty smartness. Our illustration is carried out in mauve with touches of a darker shade in the pipings and braid. Hat of pansy glace, lined with white, «nd imply trimmed with ruche and spotted*.