THE SUB-ANTARCTIC.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XLIV, Issue 13613, 5 December 1907, Page 6

THE SUB-ANTARCTIC.

SCIENTIFIC EXPEDITION.

THE CAMP ON AUCKLAND ISLANDS. BY PROFESSOR BEKHAM, F.R.S. [BY TELEGRAm.J Di:nedi>', Wednesday. The arrival at the Bluff of the Government steamship Hinemoa on Saturday afternoon brought to an end the first stage of an event of great importance in the history of scientific research in New Zealand, namely, the first scientific expedition that has been planned by New Zealand men of science The expedition owes its inception to the Philosophical Institute of Canterbury, and was primarily intended to extend the magnetic survey of the Dominion which has been carried out by Dr. Coleridge Fair, of Christchurcb, during the last few years to the Southern Islands. Litter, it was fouud possible, by the courtesy of the Government, to invite representative botanists, geologists, and zoologists to join an expedition, in order that a complcto scientific survey of Campbell and Auckland Islands should be made in the time allotted to tho trip of the Hinemoa, 1 he expedition received every help from the members of the Government, and valodictory telegrams were received from the Prime" Minister, from the Minister for Marine, and from the Minister tor Lands and Survey, before its departure on November 14. On that date the 25 members of tho expedition foregathered on the s.s. Hinemoa, Die majority were Christchurcb men, with some others from Wellington and from Dunedin. Of these about half were destined to be left on the Auckland Islands ; the rest, were conveyed to Campbell Islands. The Hinemoa then proceeded on her annual tour of inspection of Government depots for cast-away on the Antipodes and Bounty Islands. She returned to the Campbell Islands, and thence to the Aucklands. picking up the members of the expedition left on these islands, and returned to the, Blutf. It is a pleasant task to acknowledge and record the great kindness of Captain Pollons, in command of the Hinemoa. He gave advice on many matters where advice was needed, and his ripe experience of the islands made his suggestions most valuable. The party reached its camping ground on the shore of Carnley Harbour during the afternoon of Saturday, November 16. This party, it may lie mentioned ouco more, consisted of the following members: —Botanists. Dr. Cockayne. Mr. J. S. Tennaut and Mr. B. C. Astou (who was also engaged in collecting sample* of soil for analysis and also grasses lor the Agricultural Department); geologists, Mr. R. Speight and Mr. A. Finlayson; magnetic observers, Dr. F. Coleridge Fair, and Mr. H. D. Cook; zoologists, Professor Beuiham, Mr. G. V. Hudson (entomologist), and Mr. E. R. Waite (ichthyologist). The official photographer was Mr. S. Page. In addition, Mr. U. Collyns was present to render assistance where needed, and usually accompanied the geologists. Mr. Noith, of Geraidine, joined the expedition, and kindly consented to undertake the cooking, and, finally Captain Dorrim Smith, of Scilly Islands, wuo had been invited at the last moment, rendered considerable assistance to the botanical section. The executive for the control of the camp and making arrangements lor the general comfort o! the members for subsidiary expeditions and for the varied work of the party had already been chosen beiore. leaving the Bluff Wharf. It consisted of Dr. Benham (chairman), Dr. Cockayne, and Dr. Farr. For the use of the Auckland Island party a whaleboat hud been hired, manned by a crew of five half-caste Maori fishermen. The captain of the crew was Jack Whitetree, of Ruapuke, a man of great experience. The remainder were, Thomas Bradshaw, Thomas Gilrqy, William King, and Thomas West, all of Bluff. The boat was absolutely necessary for the work of the party, and without it the geologists and botanists and magnetic surveyors would have been unable to work Adam Island on the south and tho mainland to the north of our camp, as the distances are too great, and the forest ' too dense to be traversed unless ample time were at ones disposal. The spot choson by Captain Bollons as that suitable for our camp lies on the. peninsula on the north side of Carnley Harbour, bevond the entrance to Musgravc Harbour, and just bohind Masked Island. It forms one boundary of Camp Cove, so named by Captain Musgrave, and referred to in his journal as being the plate at which their boat, so painfully and laboriously put together, had to wait for a fortnight before leaf/ing the islands to seek assistance at the Bluff. The Government has long had a depot here, and we now found that the spot had another claim to interest, for here it was that in 1905 the crew of the French barque Anjou >pent» several months till removed by the Hinemoa, The hut the Frenchmen had erected now served us for our cooking house. Roofed with corrugated iron, and with a chimney built of peat soda, it served as a most cosy comer on cold damp days. The floor was thickly covered with mussel shells, showing the penchant of our predecessor* for this succulent and neglected bivalve. The executive had requested our military member to take charge of the business of the setting up of the camp and to act as store-man. He numbered us off in groups of four to erect bell tents. A large hospital marques was erected near the cook house, and for this purpose we found our boat's crew invaluable. .So far as food went there was an abundance and variety, and our menu was varied each day-.

I may say at once that the affair was in no sense a "picnic." We were bent on work, and we all went about it seriously and energetically, and to each one credit must be given for activity in Lis own particular line. Idlers there wire none. Our camp was situated in a slight clearing in the rata forest, which forms a fringe round th« side of the harbour, extending some 500 ft to 600 ft or more up the mountain sides. Just here, however, many of the trees had been out down by the men of the Anjou, and by other away crews, and the normal Undergrowth of ferns had been cleared away. In fart, there were well worn tracks all over the little peninsula, mi that it was possible to walk freely without the necessity of cutting tracks, and without any danger of being lost. It was not so everywhere, but just here around the camp it was like a series of walks and glades in some oldworld forest, but with this remarkable differencethat the great trees, instead of" growing vertically upwards, were all inclined horizontally, pressed there, by the prevailing powerful winds. Tins camp, when completed, was » very picturesque sight. Five bell tents, irregularly scattered, separated by twisted rata trunks, owr or under which one had to pass on one's way to rest, at, night, and beyond them an oft by 10ft tent, in which lodged the crew, and finally nearest the shore the conspicuous marquee. Here the party dwelt for 10 days and nights, and of their adventures and experiences some account will be given, in another article. MAGNETIC OBSERVATIONS. [fIV 11. I. SKKV, Ji.sc.] [IIY TKIJSWRAI'fI.] I'ifRISTCHCm:n, Wednesday. At Poit Pegasus, Stewart Island, a series of magnetic observations were made. In previous years observations have been made at Ohau, and those at Port Pegasus will l>o a very valuable supplement to these. Port Pegasus was left the same afternoon, and the Snares, a- set of rocky islets to the south-west of Port Pegasus, were reached at daylight. Landing in the boats the magnetic observers set up their tent on the summit of Observation. Point, over a peg placed there some years ago by surveyors who were surveying the island with a view to the selection of a site for a lighthouse. The party were able to complete the magnetic measurements, and several of our number were enabled by taking turns at observing to take a short peep at the curious bird life on the Island. Our sense of sight was. however, not needed to assure us of the presence of the penguins and of the fact that the spot selected for observation had been at no distant date occupied by them. A long pull in the boats saw us safely aboard the,steamer, and a skirt was made for the Auckland Islands. Our

arrival at Port Ross was again heralded by daybreak. The Dundonald castaways, of course, claimed our immediate attention and sympathy, and one of their number, Charles Lyre, was engaged to act as cook to the Campbell Island party. Proceeding to the southern end of the main island the entire Auckland Island party was landed at the depot, Carnley Harbour, and proceeded to erect their camp, no magnetic work beingdone that day. isext day Dr. Fan - and Mr. Cook, with Mr. Collyns, and the whaleboat and crew, transferred their apparatus round the pouit to Camp Cove, and observed there, discovering that the peaty and sedgy nature of the ground greatly increased their ditncidties in observing. On Monday a set of observations was made, at a little buy to the i northward of the depot, and just opposite ' Musgrave Peninsula. 'this time the geologist accompanied them in the whaleboat. Making his way westward to the mountains, which nowhere appear to exceed 2200 ft in height, the geologist discovered Lake Benham, a small glacial lake. This day was sunriv in the intervals of the hail and snow showers, but in the afternoon the observers felt the cold very much. Nevertheless a, complete scries "of observations was obtained. On Tuesday the party proceeded to, Adams' Island, and the geologists likewise. It was a bad day. The hilltops were covered in mist, and'though the sun was seen for a little while in the morning, in the afternoon rain fell continuously. On the Wednesday sun observations for chronometer errors of time, wore made at the main camp. On Thursday a. third station was obtained still further to the north, on the south-west-ern side of the entrance to Musgrave Harbour, the day proving good, although showery', and a very complete series of observations was made. To tin's station Mr. White and Dr. Benham accompanied the parly. , . On Friday the morning was occupied in pulling up the north ami to the tilth station on the Auckland Mauds, a five, hours' pull, and this time Mr. Huds.m was the nnlv one left at tin main camp. At the head of the arm the party met the botanists and geologists who had camped there since Wednesday, and who. expecting tinboat back on Thursday, had already put themselves on half rations. On the way up 0... party landed on Figure 8 Island. Next morning, at six a.m., tho magnetic party set to"work to observe, and obtained a very complete set of observations, including observation for latitude. The mam camp was reached after a. long pull, at nine o'clock that evening. Tho next day some time observations were made at the camp. Monday's plans for going down the harbour were spoilt by a high wind. but. time observations wen again made on this day. as also on Tuesday, when the wind was again too fierce, and the nugneticians were absorbed in calculations when they were intenupted bv the arrival of the Hinemoa from Camrbel! Island. Camp was struck as quickly as possible, and even-one proceeded on board tho steamer.