LADIES' COLUMN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XLIII, Issue 13157, 21 April 1906, Page 6 (Supplement)

LADIES' COLUMN.

..I ■*! - ; LONDON FASHION NOTES. [FROM OrR-OWX CORRESPONDENT.] '. \ London", March 17. At first -when introduced the corselet skirt was applied only to dresses for morning wear, of tweed, hopsack, serge, and cloth ; now every other new model . is made in corselet shape, whether for morning, afternoon, or for evening occasions. It is expected that many people will adopt the new shape of skirt because it does away with the necessity for a. waistbelt, while further it is more protection to the lower part of the lungs than is an ordinary skirt; a small bolero of some description more or less fanciful is an invariable accompaniment to this type of skirt. Some tailors, by the way, are making the short-length walking skirt in corselet shape, and it is always arranged that there shall be a great deal of fulness about the feet, so that although the skirt fits closely to the upper part of the figure there is" nothing skimpy about its appearance. Pleats stitched down for some distance, characterise a number of these favourite skirts, while some of the models have a box pleat down the back, and in front there is a well-shaped plastron fastened by groups of buttons covered with cloth to match the dress.

It has been remarked that all the skirts coming direct from Vienna. Berlin, and Paris are so short tor walking wear that they completely clear the top of the instep. These skirts, probably pleated for half-way of their length, are finished with row upon row of machine-stitching round the hem, and sometimes these rows of stitching are diversified hue ;■ fanciful design of circles or diamond shapes intersecting each other, and .so making a pretty and neat finish.

[ To such skirts as these the most piquant I little boleros arc- allied, and the three-quar-ter sleeve is looked upon a.s necessary to i give just the final touch of smartness. Some of the little boleros are made to meet in front, or they may be made to turn back at the wearer's will, showing a dainty lace blouse underneath. Quite a number or the newest boleros are made in the form of triple capes, and these are sleeveless; the bolero is just .-aught together in front with two enormous jet buttons, and eacl' cane is piped with black satin—no matter what colour is the material of the costume; and to correspond with a bolero of this kind the skirt should be of the three-tiered design. Among the many novelties in coats there are numbers of black glace boleros, which are intended to be worn with corselet skirts. A great many of the spring tailor-made costumes are to be in striped or checked materials, and the mixture of grey and white will be immensely used in both forms ; these grey-and-white effects may be made very- striking and pleasing by just a skilful touch of brilliant colour, such as vivid pink or red or emerald, introduced into the facings of the collar and cuffs. The bolero in its new form is- often quite transformed, for so much license is allowed in the shape and trimming that it has become too elaborate for a tailor-made gown, and is more suitable for visiting. There are many boleros of lace to wear with silk skirts-" and later this arrangement will be reversed, for bright-coloured silk boleros are, we are told, to be worn throughout the coming summer with white lace dresses style which accentuates the reaction in favour of oldentime modes. Bright rose and flame-pink models almost' covered with rich gold and silk embroideries are selected for the- purpose, as well as the favourite tones of soft French grey worked in oyster pink and gold. It will probably be some time before this last idea has any very extensive following.

Endeavours are being made to revive the flounced skirt this season, and there is thought to be no doubt, that some of the leading Paris dims will bring the flounced skirt to the front. This style is of course suitable for muslins and other thin fabrics, but we have not by any means yet arrived at the stage when we want these airy nothings ; just now the thought of them gives one the shivers. Foulards and alpacas are to be worn again this season—indeed, the return to favour of the former material is looked upon as quite a sensation ; flounces are to play an important part in the decorative effect of foulard dresses. These flounced skirts will, of course, be in direct contrast to the long, flowing corselet skirt and the princess robes, which are likely to hold a very prominent place in the spring fashions. It is to be a. season of trimmings, all of the most beautiful and gorgeous kind; only the very best hand-made embroidery characterises the French models, and many of the designs are copied from the on. French and English patterns, added to which there are some wonderful specimens of Italian embroideries. A yoke and fichu of lace will usually form part of the dress made of foulard silk, supplemented by chenille trimmings, of which there is a good variety, and there is also a very dainty silk braid in cream, which, when worked into a pretty design, has almost the effect of lace.

A NEW SHAPE. The hat sketched is of. a. new French shape, in white felt, bound with powderblue velvet, and showing some delightful shaded wings.

A SIMPLE CLOTH GOW^-