LADIES' COLUMN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXXVIII, Issue 11650, 11 May 1901, Page 4 (Supplement)

LADIES' COLUMN.

LONDON FASHION NOTES. [WRITTEN SPECIALLY FOR THE NEW ZEALAND HERALD.]

. London, April 4. Again" this year we are to be treated to great variety in the way of hats and toques. It is undeniable that the majority of the newest models are extremely flat and are only slightly trimmed, but there are many other shapes which have distinctly high crowns with equally high trimming. Those who are adopting the flat style find it necessary to wear their hair coiled quite low at the nape of the neck, the middle position being equally as impossible as the hair arranged quite on the top of the head, for the extreme flatness of the newest hats and toques will not permit of the least knob under their table crowns. To the majority the extremely low mode of hairdressing is unbecoming; people with taste dress their hair to suit themselves, and make their headgear a secondary consideration, with the result that hats of all sorts of shapes are seen. So long as the perfectly flat hat and toque are adopted it will be necessary for the wearers to coil their hair as low on the neck as possible, in which case it also is considerably putted out at the sides. Satin straw is still the backbone for the framework of the spring millinery, and this year it seems more pliable and airy and manipulative than ever before. Self colours predominate, and these are the most delicate possible, though there are some pretty mixtures of white speckled with pale tints. The satin straw of to-day often appears in gleaming broad and round strands, mingled with open work fine silk cord lace, in which all shades are to be had. The lace straw is used too in conjunction with gauze which often is threaded through the meshes of the straw. Simple hats of pastel coloured and white satin straw frequently have very floppy double or treble brims and are simply trimmed with a large spreading bow of soft silk ribbon and a spray of pastel-tinted looselyformed flowers of the clematis order. 'J he pliable hat of the present can be twisted about cunningly in many different ways to suit special types of face. Thus a number of the brims are prettily curved and undulated, others have the brim turned quite up from the face, and as a contrast to this style there is the shape whose brim-edge nearly touches the nose.

It looks as if flowers arc to have a bigger innings even than hitherto. Floral toques are in demand. These may either have the crown of flowers flatly arranged, with a wreath of green leaves to form the brim, or the crown of leaves encircled with flowers. One new form of floral headgear consists in the crown being made so as to represent one huge bloom, whether poppy, marguerite, cornflower, or what not; then the brim is generally of swathed silk. In a good many instances flowers are used without foliage—that is, green foliage, li is more in demand when in shaded pastel tones. In Paris it seems that pure white flowers are in the ascendant, notably white geraniums, withe anenomes, white violets, and white eidelweiss; the latter flower, though certainly not new, is considerably employed. These white flowers, arranged in wreath form without foliage, encircle the brim of a toque whose crown is perhaps of gathered white tulle. Mauve has sometimes been used to edge leaves of light greyish-green, and here again the effect is decidedly pleasing, while frosted greyish leaves are by no means to be despised. Some French hats and toques are made entirely of fancy foliage. Early specimens of spring flowers include the narcissus in various forms, cowslips, and lilac. A new departure in the way of artificial flowers Iris been the introduction of sprigs of broom in white, yellow, and mauve, the three colours not infrequently being used together. Auriculas are to have a turn this season among popular flowers, and perhaps later there will be gloxinias. These latter, in their rich colourings and velvety appearance, would be more suited for winter wear. Then there are skeletonised leaves which are traced and powdered with jet, and there are lightlooking wings constructed on the same principle. We have not yet seen the last of gold, though entire, flowers of it are not so much in demand as they were. Now, gold is used to form the eye of a black ruse or poppy. This season ribbon is an all-important feature, and is more used by milliners than it has been for a long time. The best kinds are run through with lines of gold, and others are crossed and lined with silver; all the colours are very dainty. The make is light in weight, and frequently is of quite a gauzy texture. Some of the ribbons have a sort of lace background on which silken flowers are patterned; others of a satin foundation are inlet with lace appliques. In addition to its use for millinery purposes, ribbon is to be an important factor for the trimming of dresses, especially in the sash form. Some sashes are to be of lace with wide, rounded ends, and these arc to accompany dresses of silk muslin or crepe de chine. Watteau bows and Empire scarves will be made of ribbon, as well as rosettes for wearing about bodies. For those who like a Paisley design, there is plenty of choice in ribbon so figured.

I am glad to note that at last the waving Paradise plume does seem to be less frequently Used ; indeed, just at present it is quite the exception to see it. Its place litis been taken by the still", upright, straight military aigrette. Ostrich feathers are prominent, as usual, and some clever lingers have found out a way of making a good representation of them with tulle. This thin and airy stuff may be so closely pleated and puffed from the inner side that at a short distance it looks exactly like a big feather. Toques have turban-like brims of tulle thus at ranged with crowns of violets or other small flowers. With such a creation a veil must not be worn, or the effect would at unci' be spoiled. 'Toques of puffed and tucked tulle require really little or no move trimming. One model of pure white, material had a long trail of black panne maiden-hair fern leaves resting lightly on its brim, and nothing more, yet it did not look insufficiently trimmed. Lace straw is often mounted upon a foundation of gauze or tulle which is threaded through the meshes ; then the trimming usually consists of rosettes of light-coloured satin, and a bandeau of tho same at one side. "Cabbage.'' rosettes of satin are still liked apparently; at any rate, (hey manage to hold their own. They are often of panney, and are made of a long folded length of material simply rolled round and round and then opened to look like the heart of a cabbage.

For evening wear flowers are in tremendous demand, and are used in large bunches and long flowing trails, as well as in wreath form round the top of the flounce. The newest and most expensive are made of tissue ; not only of gold and silver tissue. but of all lovely shade's like the blooms they are to represent. When in black, the Hnwurs have jetted centres; the foliage is made of gauze. Leaf-trimming is a late adornment for evening dresses and for the belter day gowns There is no stiffness about the idea. The leaves are cut out of velvet or panne or silk and are laid one above another quite conventionally. This mode of decoration is said to recall that which was in vogue when Queen Victoria ascended the throne, but about the present mode there is much' more grace and no stiffness, as (here used to he. With such a rage for Umpire styles, the Napoleonic wreath is often taken for the m.idel, and is beautiful in gold or silver tissue.

WHEN A MAN IS IN LOVE. It is the natural desire of every man when "lie finds himself falling in love to lavish presents, as well as polite attentions, on the girl he thus honours; and as the social law about such presents is an unwritten one, lie i< apt to fall into error concerning them and do harm where he meant to do good' He should remember that till he. is en"U"ed to her he can give her nothing except, (lowers sweets, a song he wants to hear her sin-'' or a book she is longing f» read. But he can shower as many opera, theatre, and eoncert tickets on her mother as he cares to send, besides asking her and the adored one to lunch, dinner, or a theatre supper.

SULI'IIOLINE SKIN LOTION. The oniy effective remedy for SKTN TROUBLES. Sulpholino quickly drives away] Eruptions, Pimples, Eczema, Acne, Black-) heads, and all Disfigurements, developing J fair, spotless skin and beautiful complexion. Try Sulpholiao Lotion, the English Skin Remedy,