LADIES' COLUMN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXXVIII, Issue 11620, 6 April 1901, Page 4 (Supplement)

LADIES' COLUMN.

SCRAGGY VERSUS PLUMP.

WHAT SARAH BERNHARDT SAYS. The following has been written for the New York Herald by Madame Sarah "Bernhardt : '* Why is it SO much easier for thin women to dress becomingly than for those with conventionally good figures? Why, because they are more beautiful, I think. Yes, truly. Yes," the slender woman has every advantage; she is so graceful, supple, easy, in her motions. , What do I think she should wear in order to dress more becomingly than her rival with the pretty plumpness? Ah, well, she can wear everything. Long flowing robes look best on her, however. Most decidedly. To fascinate, to charm, dress must be full of mystery; movement, stiffness, boldness is always uninteresting. More effects are becoming to the very slender than to the one with a plump figure. And, ' understand me, I do not mean fat when I say plump. There is such a difference. The slight girl can wear hats, veils, ruches, ruffles gloves, everything, and ■still have an air of distinction, of elegance.. Flowing lines and full draperies hide the defects and emphasise the beauties of thin women, while they cover up the conventional figure emtirely. The thin woman makes her gowns live. She tells something dramatic every time she moves. Even brocades, satins, velvet are more distinguished on slender figures than round ones. It is easier to suggest beauty than to suggest grace ; and grace is the vital point in being well dressed. The slender figure is naturally more graceful than the plump figure. Is the corset absolutely necessary? WelH I should say that (it is safer to wear it way's than never to wear it. ' Clothes are such wonderful things!"

LADIES WHO FENCE. A beautifully illustrated article on this subject appearing in the Lady's Magazine for February will be read with great interest. The noble art of self-defence is the favourite form of athletics among the society ladies, and has quite taken the place of bicycling in popular favour.

" The Princess of Wales (now Queen Alexandra), though she herself does not fence fencing for ladies was unheard of when she was a girl—had all her daughters instructed in the- art as part of their education; and at one time hardly a day passed that the young Princesses did not fence for an hour or more with or under the supervision of M. Bertrand, of Warwick-street, or of his daughter, Mile. Bertrand— of the best professional lady fencers of the day, who numbers among her pupils many of the members of the English aristocracy. * ' " Another enthusiastic fencer is Lady Colin Campbell, who writes: 'In no other sport or pastime that I am acquainted with (and I may say I have tried my hand at most) is the interest so close, so intense, ov so concentrated, as in fencing. There is no such nerve tonic, no such bracing occupation ; and one would hear considerably less of hysteria, of morphine mania, and other regrettable characteristics of present-day existence if women were able to take to fencing as one of the regular occupations of the day.'" At the present moment the leading amateur lady fencer is Miss Toupie Lowther, whose fencing display was such an effective feature in the famous Masque of Peace and War, given at Her Majesty's Theatre last February. Miss Lowther's enthusiasm for the art is unbounded; in fact, last year she went to Italy for the sole purpose of studying the Italian school of fencing, which, like the German, differs in several important particulars from the French school, wherein the perfection of grace is attained. The Italians use heavier foils, and rely more on mere strength than the French; and as a result of practice in both schools Miss Lowther has come to the conclusion that a combination of the French and Italian systems would be the best for practical fighting purposes. . " I don't mean to 'infer that women who fence will develop into fighters,' Miss Lowther hastened to explain, apropos of this last idea. 'Indeed, in actual fighting, I do not think women fencers would ever excel they lack the fighting instinct found in men. It is the artistic side of fencing that appeals to women.' "Sarah Bernhardt attributes her inimitable grace of movement and her truly extraordinary vitality to the fact that from her earliest youth she had been an enthusiastic fencer; and every day of her busy life she contrives to spare time for at least one hour's practice with her favourite maitre d'anmes. Whatever division of opinion there may be among those who had the privilege of witnessing her remarkable impersonation of Hamlet as to her version of the character, there can be none as to the magnificent fencing scene, which was well worth waiting for, even until close on midnight." ■ -. -

MARRIAGE AND RELIGION. TnE changing of one's religious creed is not a matter of duty on either side, but purely of inclination.

It is best for those about to marry to be of one religion, if it is a possibility.

Many have wedded retaining different faiths. Where one such marriage has proved happy, hundreds have been failures, and have been a bone of contention, causing much misery. Where it does not conflict with his belief that his own creed is the only one to adhere to to bring peace and happiness to his soul, I should recommend that the gentleman yield gracefully to the earnest desire of his fiancee, choosing whichever creed hers may be, though many women have followed the religious bent of the husband, and have had no reason to complain. So vital a question car be decided with ultimate satisfaction by no third person, whose opinion might be biassed one way or the other.

It is a matter for the contracting parties only to decide, after, much wise consideration. ■ .

Religion to some women is a part of their very souls—their everyday actions are influenced and directed by it. Religion to a great majority of men is a secondary consideration, I regret to say. There are some subjects upon /which silence is golden. This is one of them. In my opinion all religious roads lead direct to heaven. I would not hesitate to traverse any of them, feeling assured that by either path, if I toiled faithfully upward and onward, and was sustained by faith, I should reach the Great White Throne and look into God's kindly approving face at last. What more can a human being sigh for or look forward to?

In either case, I cannot look upon it as a sacrifice when one exchanges one good religion for another after having given the subject long and earnest thought. Thousands are vitally interested in this subject, and will be to the end of time.

| IN USING PERFUME. There is a great diversity of opinions about the use of scent. Some women have everything about them perfumed— only their linen, but their veils, ribbons, and hair ornaments, and even the skirts, as well as the bodices of their gowns, while others contend that any odour of any kind is bad form. Although women in good society think differently on the subject, it must bo acknowledged that there is a certain class that is always heavily perfumed. These are generally found among the frequenters of theatres and French restaurants, and everyone must have experienced the annoyance of being in the neighbourhood of such a one, redolent of heavy sachet scent that is almost equal to musk in its powerful odour. Such a list- of so-called perfume is certainly not agreeable, and can hardly be called ladylike, and yet the person who uses it, doubtless imagines it adds to her charm. There seems to be a tacit permission among society women, however, to use violet to any extent, so much so, in fact, that merely in passing certain women one can detect a faint odour of violets. This is decidedly pleasant, and to pick up a glove, handkerchief, or any other small : belonging and notice a violet scent suggests refinement and daintiness. Pure Florentine orris root is the only powder that gives the purely violet, smell, and ib alone without any admixture is used by, women .who affect the fragrance, "