LADIES' COLUMN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXXVI, Issue 11200, 21 October 1899, Page 4 (Supplement)

LADIES' COLUMN.

LONDON FAbiilON NOTES. [WRITTEN SPECIALLY FOR 7HE NEW ZEALAND HEBALD.I London, September 8. To such a tremendous extent is machinestitching being used at present, and to such a tremendous extent is it to be used in the near future, that I am sure we shall all be tired to death of it before many months are over, Dresses, coats, capes, and jackets are one mass of machine-stitching, this ornamentation being done in all sorts of grotesque 'and fancy designs, and frequently in a contrasting colour from the material it adorns. Strapped bands of a different colour from the garment which they trim are also elaborately and closely stitched by machine. That, however, might perhaps be tolerated; but when it comes to hats being covered in the same manner, to say nothing of the trimming being similarly treated, it is too much of a good thing. Machine-stitch- | ing appears to be quite a feature in the j coming millinery modes. Early though it I be for its use, yet there are any number of j hats and toques formed of velvet and or panne. The brimin fact some times the entire shapeis encircled with row after row of stitching, always done with silk of a different colour. Then the panne or velvet or piece silk used as the trimming is stitched with several rows all round the edge. Some of the most taking straw shapes as well, ivory in tone, and of very soft texture, have the rows joined to one another with black silk. In addition, felt hats are also the victims of this present craze. Luckily, however, we have not vet come to the season when felt and velvet 'hats are indispensible to one's wardrobe. The former, to a small extent, are just beginning to be worn by those who are travelling about a great deal. The latest shape in white or grey felt has a round dome-shaped crown and a narrow brim; its only ornamentation, beside the stitching aforementioned, is a twist of ribbon and a long quill. It is correct now to wear hats as much tilted over the face as possible. Another class of felt travelling hat has a white crown and a coloured brim, and is similarly trimmed with ribbon and a quill. Panama straw hate are largely in evidence at the seaside places, and for these just a twist of foulard silk round the crown, knotted into a large bow across the front, is considered sufficient for trimming purposes. Large hats which are also very fashionable for seaside wear are of rough plaited straw; their trimming consists of a draping of coloured gauze rolled round the crown and a large seagull, wjt-h outstretched wings. The bird must be sewn in so carefully and lightly as to give the impression that it is possessed of life, and has just dropped on the hat in order to snatch'a minute's rest. The boating hat has a crown distinctly higher and narrower than it had last year. The " weather-proof" plume is one of the novelties for the autumn. By the process which the feather undergoes to keep it from getting straight in damp weather, it is rendered very curly and fluffy-looking. A new veil is of'net or tulle, the upper part being plain, while the lower portion is covered more or less with black chenille spots. Chenille, by the way, is immensely popular for current' fashion of having lace threaded along the edge with a colour. One of the new millinery ribbons is of very broad borded silk, which is bordered on either side with an inch-wide bund of plush darker than the silk part, or elso shaded or even of a different colour altogether. Shaded feathers are at present by no means sparingly used, but these, as you know, are no novelty; likewise we see a great deal of shaded panne and velvet twisted into dainty little toques. Regarding the shape of hats, another type which prevails is known as the "Dolly Varden," which has the sides bent down over the ears, and is somewhat raised at the back and front. Opal-tinted feather boas are becoming less of a novelty than they were in the spring, and when the chilly weather arrives they will, I think, be considerably worn, though this kind is no.t so pretty as are the grey and white description. Long scarves of chiffon, with frilled edges twisted loosely round the neck and tied in a large bow in front,'are worn as a slight protection from the night air. The directoire scarf has again been reinstated, and is largely worn in Paris. Its ends are more often trimmed with lace instead of the fringe to which we had previously been accustomed. And this seems a little strange, in view of the fact that fringes are returning to favour. But then it must be remembered that too much lace cannot be used, according to present modes. The period for chiffons and gauzes worn in the daytime will be over at the end of a few weeks, I suppose, and then it will be upon furs that all attention will be bestowed. According to the latest dictates, stiff linen collars for womenkind are doomed; I doubt if their end will come just yet, but nevertheless that time is predicted. Linen collars, beside being rather uncomfortable at first, are thought to have a discolouring effect upon the skin. So in their stead, on shirt blouses, coloured ribbon neckbands are to appear. The majority of them are being veiled with lace, and have a lace bow in front. These bands are detachable, and readily adjusted; with a good stock of them great variety in one's appearance may result. Very often people don't bother with these ready-made adjustments; they merely buy a piece of wide ribbon, twist it round the neck, and fasten it here and there with some little fancy-headed pins or lace brooches. True, this latter is a more slovenly method, but when people have the knack of arranging the ribbbon neatly the result is very good. In the same way silk chiffon is a good deal worn, passed twice round the neck and then fastened into a big bow. In the matter fil underlinen, I learn that a change is coming. No longer must it be one mass of frills and lace. Even on the hems of Hie various garments frills are out of vogue. Attention is bestowed entirely on the fit and cut of the articles; and upon these two points all the charm depend?. A simple edging of real Valenciennes lace trimming the neck, threaded with a coloured bebe ribbon, is all that is required; while if a further adornment is wished for, then the owner's initial may be embroidered on the left shoulder. The prettiest and niost serviceable petticoats for rich people a're wjde of thin silk, having a muslin and lace flounce trimmed with insertion. The flounce buttons over the under one of silk, and is taken off and washed when dirty. Then also petticoats of muslin have each a detachable silk flounces which is also easily unbuttoned and washed when grubby. I pin told thai " a few energetic society women, not students of hygiene, are evoking out of their powerful minds a novel idea to suit the sheath-like gowns moulded to the figure —namely, to forgo stays and to have a bodice for each dress stiffened with bones, the exact shape of the dress bodice, so that the back curved gracefully, and the waist is well supported, but supple withal." Silk fringe trimmings are coming slowly, but very surely. Some of those at present venturing forth are extremely narrow, and are known as the "Tom Thumb" class. With the advent of autumn, however, it is predicted that much wider widths and heavier makes will be with us. Crystal is to be used a great deal as a trimming; but it is not to be used so much in the form of embroidery and sequins as formerly. The width varies from half-inch to about 10 inches. Ribbon work is being appliqued on to silk and crepe de chine gowns in different, floral designs, many of which arc exceedingly striking; the same sort of work will adorn many of our autumn toilettes. By the way, tailor-made gowns of silk, which were only in their infancy when I first informed you of their existence, are to be at' their zenith during the coming months. For the same make of gown, satin is also to be worn for dressy occasions, when it is 1 anticipated that it and silk will supplant the fine makes of face cloths. Strangely enough, these silk and satin tailor-mades will owe their decorative work to cloth for this latter material, covered with machine-stitching, is to be arranged in the form of bands and strappings on them. It is surely a queer combination, and I need hardly say that it owes its origin to Paris. Cloth dresses will, of course, be largely worn as well and here again trimming is to consist of stitched bands, but of a contrasting shade of cloth. "Gazelle" is one of the new tones of brown it is of a very soft shade. - In conclusion to-day I only want to tell you that that barbaric ornament, the earring, is becoming more and more patronised. Not only are the little ' screw ear-rings of pearls and diamonds in favour, but so are the heavy drooping kind.';