THE GARDEN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXXVI, Issue 11056, 6 May 1899, Page 4 (Supplement)

THE GARDEN.

The cold night temperature experienced this work lins proved too much for some of llio lender animals and oilier plants, bringing their flowering to a sudden termination. Dahlias soon feel tho effects of a few cold nights, and aro about over for the season. Allow the stems to ripen off gradually prior to lifting the roots, and storing them away for llio winter. Deciduous trees and sltrnlH nro gradually ripening their loaves, mid claim attention now that the late autumn and early winter seasons aro upon us. Tlio ever-vary-ing tints of their maturo and ripening foliago render them conspicuous objects, and a striking contrast to the surrounding evergreens. Hie planting of deciduous trees is becoming more general, and their value much mora appreciated than hitherto. Tho landscape around our city and suburbs would ]>o much more picturesquo than it actually is had proper attention been paid to the mattor of planting in the earlier days; and instead of tho endless rows of conifers, chiefly comprising Funis insignia and Cupressus macrocarpa, that we are accustomed to see 011 every side, had the planting of native trees and other suitable evergreons with a divert of foliage then received more attention, thii\> would in.t now be tho necessity to urge upon my readers tho more general planting of deciduous subjects. Tho aim of all our planters should lie to preserve as far as possible the natural flora of the country; hence it would bo a mistake to allow deciduous trees to predominate, especially when wo cmviidor that nature has only allotted two vniMiei: '0 the land, and those only partially so. However, this is 0110 of the cases where art steps in to aid nature; therefore by the judicious selection and distribution of tho most beautiful and distinct varieties of iWidu.ws tipes, and those best adapted to the requirements of our climate, tho beauty of the landscape may bo greatly enhanced, particularly in tho late autumn and early winter soasons, when tho varying hues and tints of foliage afford such diversity. Later, a list of names of suitable varieties will be given for the guidance of intending planters. It is now almost impossible to keep the garden and grounds neat and tidy on account of the litter from fallen loaves, as every gust of wind and shower of rain brings down a fresh batch to add to the general confusion. This will continue for some time, until the whole of the deciduous subjects have cast their foliage and assumed heir winter garb. Tho fallen leaves should bo collected at least twico a week, and deposited in some suitable plaoo where 'W may be allowed to remain and rot, forming what is known as leaf-mould, which is an simost indispensable compost Jin connection with a garden, and one of the most important ingredients for the soil used in tho shecessful cultivation of many pot plants; and also most valuable for incorporating in tho soil around azaleas, ericas, camellias, rhododendrons and such-like plants, to encourage good root action, and supply and nourish tho plants with the material best adapted for their natural requirements. The quality of leaf-mould much depends upon the sorts of oaves composing ,t. Oak and beech leaves being of a harder texture are much better than those with leaves of a softer and more watery character. But all varieties, with the exception of the pine family, when incorporated together, make a good compost, and may be mixed with weeds, grass dip pings and other suitable debris, and L non.Hr turned and allowed to remain long enough to become thoroughly decomposed tonheom th T' In galhorin * tho loaves to place m the heap care must be taken to keep them free from sticks, branches or pieces of wood, as these are liable to wuse fungoid growths which would render the compost almost useless. By ca ™f,,ll„ „ ,1T to the collecting of all fallen leaves tliroS out the season a regular supply 0 f leaf-mould will always bo available for use whenever it may be required. whenever it

KITCHEN GARDES. Little can at present be done in tho wav of cropping unless it be the plantW of addi Uonal cabbage and cauliflower plants and the sowing of lettuce, radish, turnip endive sufficient " Sma!l sulneiont to meet requirements. Tho planting of shalota a„d potato-onions may afsoTo done Now also j s a suitable S to sow bod of onion seeds, in order in spring 8 plants ready for transplanting in spring for the production of the verv pavlv n J,, » about April 15 until tho middle of jfoy°is tho best time to sow for this purpose. When sown earlier the young plants are liable to run to seed. Complete the harvesting £ Pipkin, ?s all should' now bo quite ready to take in. Store' away in- some dry airy.place for keeping* .. . \ .. y

the orchard. In last month's orchard notes I gave a few directions upon laying out, draining, and preparation of tho soil necessary fdr the planting of young orchard trees. Up to the present tho weather has been all that could bo wished for this work, and if the instructions thou given havo boon carriocl out the soil should bo in the best poeciblo condition for planting as soon as tho trees are ready for removal. Tho important of oarly planti_ can not be overestimated, as the trees become so thoroughly established the soring as to scarcely feel the offect of the Hhift But although early planting is to bo commended, I would by no moans adv.se planting unlos3 the soil has ° oen thoroughly nr'enarod for their reception; for no matter how healthy and vigorous tho trees may be nt the time of planting, if placed in soil that Ins not. been worked and sweetened they cannot succeed. The amount of preparation Lwlod will, of course, vary according to character of soil, but the soil should in all rases bo in such condition that it would produce any ordinary farm crop. To have 'thing in readiness boforo starting to In he whole of the orchard should be marked out, the holes dug, and the separate places allotted to each variety. A plan of [ho orchard should then be drawn, marking -.1. row, and the number of holes '° each row carefully numbering each hole. When planting, name each vanoty, and number of each variety on the plan corresponding with e ground plan. By tins means the names ' [ every variety can be preserved, and if the merits of each are marked when fruiting it i, valuable as well as interesting to know , he names of the varieties that succeed and are best suited to the soil and locality. The distances the trees should be planted apart must be regulated in a measure by the varieties, quality of soil, etc. Trees vary so much in character of growth in different localities that no hard and fast rule can be la.d down For standard varieties of orchard trees, 18lt to 30ft apart may ha required. Apples pears and quinces, should in no caso be planted less than 25ft apart unless planted in soil where they make but little, growth. Punches, nectarines, plums, and other stone fruits can be planted 18ft to 20ft apart. in tho rows' but tho rows should nob bo less than 25ft apart. In every case it is bettor to err on the right side, and allow plenty of room. Tho tendency in most orchards is to crowd as many trees as possiblo into a small space, but when this is done failure is certain to follow in a few years. In planting young trees it must bo homo in mind that til" trees cannot bo pruned too severely, particularly stone fruits, and that it is necessary to cut at least one-half to two-thirds off the branches to ensure success. No mattor how carefully a tree is lifted, the roots aro to somo extent damaged, and require cutting back and it must, naturally follow that tho tree has a bettor ohanco of growing if a corresponding amount of growth is removod from the top.