LADIES' COLUMN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXXVI, Issue 10972, 28 January 1899, Page 4 (Supplement)

LADIES' COLUMN.

LONDON' FASHION NOTES. [wnimx specially for the :;ew zealasu HEEALD.I London, December 17. To-day I resume my notes on evening attire. To begin with I will say something about hairdressing, hints with regard to which have been supplied by a well-known London coiffeur. It is becoming more and more noticeable that sensible women and women their own particular features and style of beauty. There is at present no specially favourite shade of hair; it is not long since the vivid colour popularly known as" Venetian red" was all the rage; but now it is no longer worn, unless, of course, it be Nature's natural colouring. But it is no longer fashionable when obtained with the aid (if the dve pot. Few women possess it in their own right, and when it is the natural hue the complexion is in perfect harmony with it, a detail of the utmost importance, not infrequently overlooked when the Venetian red hair had been artinrially produced. .At'the moment, those who have well shaped heads dress their hair low down, particularly in the evening—though some (if the smartest women have begun to adopt it fur the daytime too The wave is still in, but it is wider than ever One of the latest modes (if dressing the hair low is, after tying it slightly above the nape of the neck tii divide it iii half, coiling the one half upward in the form of the figure eight; the second half is similarly used except that the first twist starts downward, thus resting (in the neck; on this bottom twist is generally worn a tortoise-shell or some other fancy slide. Straight fringes which were threatened some little time ago. and which were sparingly adopted at that time, are only very tardily making their way, and olio begins to think that they will not "lake" at all, for to the average type of English face the. are not fit all becoming. Heavy fringes are not worn now, the prevailing mode being to brush the hair back high above the forehead, waved, of course, while on the temples there are only a few curly locks permitted to rest. There is nothing new here, hut for all that I anticipate that it will be the established fashion all through the winter season.

The tortoise-shell comb has evidently come to slay for some time, and the most beautiful specimens, so far as colouring is concerned, are named " reddish blonde." Sometimes these combs are edged with brilliants or other sparkling stones: sometimes they arc pierced in different patterns, and sometimes the edges arc just indented in a kind of broad arabesque design. At one time grey hair was tabooed, but now it is being reinstated, and alwavs is most effective and b.v"'iiing when it is natural. Ladies now s-'-ldom interfere when the hair is turning guv. but permit Nature to take her course. ' While the low style of hairdressing is practically the prevailing mode in London, wi' have only just to peep across to the other side of the Channel to find the eery opposite. There wmiienkind, no matter when and where seen, have always their hair dressed right on the top of the head, and hideous it generally looks; the hair is twisted into the smallest possible, knot. It is worn high in front, very much puffed at each side, and stands out well at the back of the neck: the ondtile remains, only it is larger and looser than heretofore. Combs are dill the rage there: side combs arc worn in addition to a large one on the top of the head, and an Empire comb at the back.

lint to return to London. In the eveniiiL', some ornament—or ornaments—usually adorns the hair. When the latter is arranged on to tho neck, nothing is more modish thai) for a lovely rose to be lucked into the hair on the left side. Other flowers, too, are worn, but the rose is most favoured. Then, as hair ornaments, there are pretty little gauze butterflies in all delicate colourings, some of which glisten with crystal ornaments; the attenme art usually formed of little aigrette wisps. Beside the butter- ' fly, the grasshopper and the dragonfly figure as hair ornaments. Also there are pretty little ostrich tips and soft fluffy marabout plumes, the latter often being spangltd; they avo >■■> soft and light looking, Then, strain. the Louis Sci/.e how is an important little etcetera for evening wear in the hair. It is made of coloured wired inchwide velvet ribbon ; some of these bows are made to Ink biightrr by the addition of a little sparkling ornament, and others are made to look less stiff and prim by having mixed in with the ribbon a little osprey. Sprays It the hair are also being made in the form of leaves; those depicting *i.e maidenhair fern give promise of being very popular. \\ bile on the subject of ornaments, I may as well say a few words about some of the jewellery in vogue for evening wear at the present time. Of all stones I really thi.ik that the diamond and the pearl rank first in favour now. In the way of neck ornaments there is much variety. Some "dog collar" necklet's of pearls with diamond clasps are very much to the front-, but, on the whole, perhaps, neck ornaments are not so much worn high or close round the throat as they are just round the base of the throat, from which point they circle out broadly. Often long necklets are twisted round several times and then allowed to fall down the front of the bodice. It is now quite the exception to see the neck hare of ornaments. With regard to anything tight being permissible round the throat, there is an exception made in favour of the black velvet band which is drawn through one or more jewelled buckles or slides, and is fastened in a bow at the back. | The revival of the locket has given the j goldsmiths much scope to display their taste, j and some of the little heart-shaped lockets, i pendant on fine gold chains, are really beautiful. Of course they are not so shnwv or so elaborate as the gorgeous necklaces, hut for all that they are effective and simple in much better taste and far more girlish. The lockets are often'of plain gold, sometimes they are set with one stone, and at other times the surface is completely dotted with precious gems—notably tinv pearls. For girls, one of these little heart lockets or a simple necklet of two or three rows of pearls or else a circle of moonstone is most general.