THE GARDEN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXXIV, Issue 10479, 26 June 1897, Page 4 (Supplement)

THE GARDEN.

Here in New Zealand the Jubilee celebrations have happened at a most inopportune season for making any effectual floral display on account of the scarcity of plants now in bloom. On the other hand, the season has afforded a chance bo commemorato the event in a more lasting manner by tree planting, and many have availed themselves of planting with their own hands some special tree or tree 3 as a memento of the record reign. The oak is perhaps the most appropriate tree that can be selected as a souvenir and emblem of unity, linking us with the mother country and old associations. All varieties of oaks

thrive admirably here in almost any soil or situation. They are handsome trees, and particularly interesting during the spring soaeon when clothed with their young and verdiint foliage. In planting any tree for a flpecial object extra care should be devoted to the preparation of the hole for its reception. Where the soil is deep and good, no extra precaution need be taken, an ordinarysized bole, just largo enough to enable the roots to be spread out being quite sufficient. But where shallow, with a cold, hard clay subsoil, to obtain good results, it is imperative thab the holes be properly prepared, by digging them fairly wide, and throwing out a portion of the subsoil, and re-filling~with a compost of good fresh surface earth, the best for this purpose being turfy loam, or tbo trimmings of paths, edging, leaf rubbish, and other suitable materials, By proper attention to planting at the outset, tho ultimate success of the tree is assured,

provided a sound, healthy, well rooted plant has been selected. Another important point is not to plant too deeply. Where the holo has been dug deep) and refilled with good soil, as recommended, the soil is sure to subside and sink lower than the surrounding surface. To obviate this allowance must be made by raising tho soil above the level, and planting the tree upon a slight mound. In planting, be careful to spread the roots well out, and see that they are not buried too deeply, and beyond the influence of the atmosphere. Aftor the tree has been carefully inserted, with fine soil well worked in and amongst the roots, and trodden down sufficiently firm, a final filling of loose earth should bo made; and to keep the tree in position and prevent tho head from swaying backwards and forwards by the action of the winds, it must be securely staked. With a little after care in keeping the eurfaco soil occasionally stirred, the tree will soon become established in its now position, The matter of manuring at timo of planting is a subject that requires to be carefully regulated. Many inexperienced planters err in administering an overdose of manure, either stable or artificial. Both are injurious to moat treea where placed directly in contact with the roots. Many trees aro ruined by too inucli bonedust at the time of planting. Stimulants are best applied lightly forked in the surface soil after the tree has been planted a month or more. Manure at the time of planting should bo wall rotted, and .well mixed with the soil. A little bonedust is also beneficial, but it must be thoroughly incorporated with tho soil, and not allowed to come in immediate contact) with the roots of the tree. As above stated those who are unacquainted with the requirements of trees invariably givo them too much manure when first planted. THE VINERY. The pruning of all late grapes should now be completed us soon as possible, Owing to the extromely mild weather many vines aro holding their foliage much later than usual, Still they can now be pruned without risk of injury from tho vines bleeding. ThVpruning should in all cases be done as soon as possible after the return of she eap, or as soon as most of tho foliage ias fallen, as the longer season of rest the vines have before being started again into growth the better tho plants will do their work the following season. The time of pruning must in a great measure depend upon the variety of grapos grown. Early varieties naturally ripen their wood, and are ready for pruning much earlier than later kinds, so that where a mixed variety of vines are grown they should be pruned as they are ready, and not left until all are, in a condition for cutting. The system of pruning, too, must vary according to the varieties. Some will break well and produce a good crop of grapes with close pruning. Others, on the other hand, will soon be showing many blank' spaces, and bo'como unprofitable canoe. I have always recommended in pruning back, to leave two of the strongest eyes at the base of each lateral instead of one, as adopted by many growers. And this is by fer the best method for those to adopt) who are Dot

thoroughly acquainted with the different varieties and their requirements, Whin two eyes are left, and they both break into growth, the one showing the least promising bunch can always be removed or shortened back, Some varieties will not stand bard pr un ing and often fail to start when pruned to onebud. This is why so many blank spurs are noticeable in some vines, particularly such varieties as Dr. Hogg, Golden Champion, Bed Muscat, Barbarossa, and such kinds. With such varieties it is beet to have two laterals start, and if the upper one carries the bunch, keep the lower ahoob shortened in, but not removed, as this lateral can be made to develop the buds needed for next season's crop, while the upper lateral is cut away; thus always keeping a short spur, and yet securing a lateral to each. On the other, hand, if the lower lateral carries the bunch, the upper one can be removed. The pruning should always be done with a sharp knife, so that a clean smooth cut is made. After pruning gather up all leaves and litter and burn, to destroy any pests. Thoroughly dress the vines witlftome strong insecticide. Fir-trea oil is a safe and effective wash to use [or this purpose. After dressing remove all the looso bark. This parts readily from the vines, and should not be scraped with the knite or other instrument that would damage the canes. As soon as the bark is removed, the cane should be again dressed with the mixture, so that any peat? that had secreted themselves under the bark are destroyed. The canes should then be painted. A good paint is made by mixing snot, clay, and cow mannro in a little water. The only object being to fill the crevices and form a smooth even surface. No stronger material 13 needed for this purpose, Kkpos,