LADIES' COLUMN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXXIV, Issue 10365, 13 February 1897, Page 4 (Supplement)

LADIES' COLUMN.

NOVELTIES.

A stylish dress is made of blue mohair with a sash of checked silk, frilled all round, and the bodice with the newest form of bolero, the vandyke edge worked with black chenille, also the fril'.ings on the sleeves, the silk reappearing on the front of the bodice. There is always a danger that the bolero will thicken the waist, but in this instance there is a box pleat down the centre carried to the waist line, where it ends in loop bows, that prevents this effect, It is evident that bodices covered with lace and embroidery are to accompany skirts which match the sleeves, and designs of Maltese or Cluny lace in broad, distinct leaves are among the novelties for the purpose. Dalhia is a favourite shade for such costumes. A striking gown is made of soft canvas in light brown, panels on the skirt being outlined with black braiding. The bolero bodice is made with tabs, also braided, and a vest of ivory silk is embroidered in different colours, while at the waist the flash of a belt of rose-red satin is seen. A dress lately quoted as bearing the newest example of trimming had this of cretonne in blue, pink, faint yellow, and white, arranged as revers and a band on the skirt, the material of the dress being a pretty grey alpaca. The demand for gossamer materials is great, and the popular chiffon is as thriving as it has ever been—a circumstance to which, no doubt, the beautiful range of colours in which it is employed conduces greatly. There is a lovely geranium tint in them which sets one longing for an opportunity to wear it. The new laces are beautiful; but the most decided departures from what was worn a few months ago are these Cluny and Maltese designs applied to narrow laces, flounces, and a great variety of uses. Needle-run laces—that is, net foundations with a pattern having the silk thread all on the surface—are specially employed on materials with a sheeny surface. The newest ribbons are either moir6 shot in the most charming designs or have black velvet stripes over bold patterns. The novelty is that this year the moire ribbons are made much lighter and thinner, because it is no longer necessary to trim with erect bows, as we have been wearing them in hats and bonnets, for this style has yielded to pleatings and horizontal gatherings. But there is much that is uncommon and different from what'has been seen in times past, as, for example, a broad ribbon with a chine design of large velvet flowers, outlined with gold or silver, that appears to be painted on. Ornamentation this year is taking many new and varied shapes. Applique embroideries in the form of festoons in white and 6cru are frequently worked on satin of a holland colour and are employed for capes and mantles, and there are many distinct scallopings in designs like crochet of a leather tint, which produce a great effect. One of the points to remember is that most of the laces and embroideries are accompanied by insertions to match and the same patterns are repeated in the piece. In shaded materials colours are curiously blended, red and mauve are combined, orange and brown, dahlia and black, and the brightest arsenic-green with black. Many a full tweed costume is rendered dressy by the introduction of bright yellow touches of velvet, combined with lace about the bodice.Weigel'a Journal of Fashion,

SOME DON'TS FOR PICNIC PARTIES. Don't fix on a spot for the picuic which is only known by hearsay, or disappointment will follow.

Don't forget to make the picnic a movable feast, if possible. The charm of this outdoor enjoyment is lost when the sky is leaden-grey, and umbrellas are in use. Don't go too far from any habitable spot in case any unforeseen accidents happen that require immediate attention. Don't expect at a picnic to have all the requirements of a fixed luncheon ab home. The charm of an al fresco entertainment depends upon its unconventionally. ! Don't wander away too far from your party or into forbidden ground. There are such dangers as barbed wire and dangerous . cattle. Don't forget to provide some spirits, a billy, and a box of matches. Don't make your hamper too heavy with useless things. Don't wear your smartest frocks. The ever-useful serge skirt and a washing blouse with sailor or rather a largo white straw, is the most appropriate. , TO DISPERSE WRINKLES. When a woman has wrinkles on her face everyone says, " She is oldbut such is not always the case, for these objectionable lines may arise from various causes. Loss of flesh will make the skin loose, and with this diminution of the fat, which fills up the cracks and lines, tho skin will naturally lose its smooth appearance and fall into wrinkles. Thf great thing, therefore, is to counteract this tendency to lines by applying to the skin some emollient lotion of a non-drying nature, combined with an astringent wash to tighten the skin. A good cream or pure olive oil will do this if rubbed into the skin circular fashion, if the lines spread from the eyes to the hair. If underneath the eyes, gently smooth them out by rubbing, not upwards, but beginning from the inner corner downwards with semi-circular movement, working the oil or cream well in with the first and second fingers. Lines from the nose to the chin should be rubbed towards the cheek, and those across the forehead from side to side of the face, not up and down. These rules for the dispersion of wrinkles hold good, no matter from what cause they come, and it is also an excellent plan to massage the face all over with a little fresh cream, while the natural oil in the fingers will do much to prevent and drive them away if this friction is employed regularly for five minutes every night. Before rubbing, bathe tho face in warm water, not too hot, then with soft cold water into which a few drops of toilet vinegar have been added, give the countenance a last laving. FEMALE SAILORS. In Norway, Sweden, and Finland women are frequently employed as sailors, and do their work excellently; and in Denmark several women are employed afloat as State officials, generally in the pilot service. They go far out to sea in their boats to meet the vessels coming into port, and having nimbly climbed on board and shown their official diploma, they calmly and coolly steer the newcomer into harbour. It is just the same in Finland. On board small sailing vessels the stewardess and the skipper's wife would each share in the ordinary task of the sailor, even taking their turns at the wheel and the watch during the night. Experienced captains Bay that) women make excellent mariners, and have as much dexterity and as good powers of endurance as most men. MAID-SERVANTS IN RATIONAL^ It is stated that Englishwomen are considering seriously the advisability of having their maid-servants dress in knickerbockers, not only as one moans of safety against fire, bub as a wonderful saving in fine china, porcelain, pictures on easels, and all of the numerous knick-knacks which women's skirts manage to upset and break. The agitators of the idea, chief among whom is Lady Harberton, also claim for it that in doing away with interfering skirts a double amount of work will bo accomplished through facility of action acquired, and there will be avoided also a large amount of dust that is carried about in skirts. HANDS. " There are hanaS— slender, nervous ones—that Naturo meant to hold the brush or pen," says a professional palmist; " there are others a little shorter, bub with very slender tips, that can touch the keys of the piano or do anything that requires quickness of motion. There is the flab, dimpled hand thab is expressionless, though ib may be affectionate; and there is the short, square one that bespeaks determination of will, a taint of coarseness, and a temper that will smoulder like a dull fire and break out and rage' some day. Trust a woman . who sits with her thumbs up; she may be determined, but she is truthful. The one who conceals her thumbs is apt to be deceitful and untruthful. Look at the thumb if you want to judge of people's intellectual strength, for the'longer it is,' proportionately, the itronger the braia,'' •' : - '■•••