LADIES' COLUMN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXIX, Issue 8842, 2 April 1892, Page 4 (Supplement)

LADIES' COLUMN.

OPEN-FRONT BODICE. Coat bodicas and contrasting waistcoats are just now most popular, and the illustrations given here show the newest style. The open-fronted coat is well cut and smart in appearance, and is usually worn with a plain habit-skirt. Soft woollens are most suited in this style, and white or figured drill should form the waistcoat, although silk is also often used. The coat has loose fronts, two side-pieces, and French back, which fit perfectly into the figure and develop into a deep basque, the entire edge being machine-stitched. The fronts require

facing back a few inches with material, or else lining with silk, as it would uot look well to show lining. The neck is finished with a turn-down collar to be cut in material, lined with silk, and interlined with strong linen. Turn in the edges of the collar and lining and machino together, then place the neck of the bodice between the lower edges and slip-stitch the collar and lining down to it. The sloevo is the new shape, nice and full over the top of the arm, so as to raise it above the shoulder, while from the elbow to the wrist it fits closely and is simply trimmed with four buttons along the outside seam.

DOUBLE-BREASTED COAT.

Tho double-breasted vest, which is of drill, shows tho most popular style, which looks well in silk, velvet, plain or chequered cloth. Both fronts are cut from the same pattern, first in lining, then in material. On to the right front has to be joined the extra piece which renders it doublebreasted, this being cub in lining and material ; it should button from tho left shoulder after hooking the fronts invisibly down the centre. The basque of material is best lined with silk, then the edges are machined. This style of vest is also seen with tiny little pockets joined in with the basque, and in this case it is best to make this coat in flowered silk or brocade. The side-piece and back should be of lining,

while the collar-band of material should be lined with sarcenet, interlined with stiffened canvas and machined round the edge. CAXTON DRESS. Two neat and dressy frocks for a small boy are hero depicted. The first is in the sailor style, and can be made of flannel, serge, and washing materials. It. is cut with a lining bodice, finished at the neck with a band collar, beneath which is a pointed yoke, outlined with feather-stitch-ing. From under this yoke gathers the full plastron, while the arm-holes should be

piped or hemmed, and tho back fastened down with buttons. To this bodice gathers the full skirt, the lower edge being finished with a deep cross-band of plain material. The blouse, made up independently of the under-dress, has the neck opened in V shape and finished with a sailor collar, the waist gathering to a band of the required size. Full sleeve gathered into a moderately deep cuff. The waist is surrounded with a piece of plain material tied at the side, and the ends knotted to form a kind of tassel.

SMOCKED DRESS,

This smocked dress is formed on Princess lines, and a seam down the centre is avoided, as the dress buttons down the back. The neck, both back and front, is set in small pleats, which are stitched down to the lining yoke, back and front. Beneath this the fulness is smocked in honeycomb stitch, and then brought full to the waist, where it

is gathered to the required size, or it can be left loose, and merely confined to the figure by the soft silk sash, which ties in loops and ends behind. The lower edge is turned up with a deep hem, and finished with narrow tucks, or, if preferred, rows of velvet, silk braid, or even machine-stitching can be employed. The sleeve gathers entirely round the top of the arm, to draw it up to the size of the arm-hole ; then the wrist is smocked in honeycomb stitch, leaving an inch or so to form a tiny frill over the hand.Australasian.