LADIES' COLUMN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXVIII, Issue 8682, 26 September 1891, Page 4 (Supplement)

LADIES' COLUMN.

TUDOR CAPE IN LACE. Tn - this instance tho capo is shown made of silk, jet, lace flouncinir, and lace edging. The yoke, which is of silk and overlaid with a jet yoke, is shallow on the shoulders, , shapes a " V"at the centre of the back, is in oompadour shape in front, where it is pointed at tho closing. To its' low ' e F n c^|? j are joined the upper edges of the frill and capo ; the capo is laid in w M*'" ■>»* gathered at the top to fall in foil folds evenly all round to below the waist-line; while the frill, which is only gathered at , tho top, is deepest on tiio shoulders and narrows gradually toward the seam at the back and toward its front ends. Hooks and loops close the yoke, an underlap being sown to the left side. The collar, which is overlaid with a jet collar, is of the Medici order, rising hi 0

and flaring in tho regulation way. Bows of jet pendants are sewn along the joining o the capo and frill to the yoke and fall prettily over the frill. All sorts of tlouncings will bo used for capes of this style, lhe collar and yoke may be of velvet,, passementerie, beads, etc., or tho silk foundation may be omitted if a very airy effect, be desired. Dress materials and light cloths of all kinds will also make up stylishly by this illustration, and when velvet or the material is used for the collar the edge should bo wired. The edges of the cape and frill may lie scalloped and finished or felt plain, as preferred. BLOUS 10 DRESS. Grey serge and white and grey spotted silk are stylishly unitod in tins smart frock and machine-stitching finishes the hem of the skirt. The foundation skirt is fashioned in tho usual four-gored style, and is overhun" by a full, round skirt that is finished at the bottom with a deep hem fastened with two rows of machine-stitching. Ihe skirt is disposed at the front and sides with becoming fulness, resulting from gathers at the top, and at the back it is arranged in deep fan-plaits that flare in characteristic fashion to the edge. The top of the skirt is finished with a bolt, and the placket is formed at the left side under the plaits. The blouse is shaped by shoulder and untler-arm seams, and closed at the front with buttonholes and buttons. The lower edge is turned under and stitched for a hem, in which a tape or elastic is inserted to draw the fulness nicely to the figure and causo the blouse to droop in regulation style. The full shirt-sleeves are gathered at the top and bottom. An opening is made in the lower part of each sleeve, the front edge of the opening being finished with an overlap that is pointed at the top, and the wrist is finished with a cuff, the square ends of which are closed at the top with a button and buttonhole. At the neck is a rolling collar mounted on a band; it is made

double, and its ends flare widely at the throat. The plaited ends of silk ties are tacked beneath tho collar at the sides, and the ties are prettily bowed at the throat, their free ends being shaped in points The jacket extends almost to the waistline, and is admirably adjusted by single bust-darts, under-arm and side-back gores, and a curving centre-seam. The fronts are reversed in lapels by a rolling collar, covered with a facing of the material, which is extended down the fronts to form underfacings. The fronts close at tlio bust with link buttons, and below tho closing they flare widelv to disclose the blouse, with stylish effect. If preferred, the fronts may be worn open. Tho coat sleeves are made unusually full at the top, where they are gathered to stand prominently over the shoulders. The wrists are trimmed at the cuff with three row? of machine-stitching, and the cuffs of tlio blouse sleeves may be rolled up over them. 'Che jacket is independent of the rest of the costume, and may be omitted. French flannel in striped or figured effects, outing cloth, serge, flan nel, and all other fabrics used for outing costumes will develop attractively by this illustration, which is especially well adapted to tennis and sports of all kinds. Combinations of plain or striped flannel with figured or striped wash silk are effective and becoming ; and metallic braid or cord, washable braid," or fancy stitching may be employed for garniture any way preferred. A pretty costume for tennis-wear may be made of dark blue serge and blue-nnd-white striped wash Australasian.

Now that the Emperor has gone, it may bo interesting to know who most pleased the Imperial fancy. His admiration of the Duchess of Aosta is of long standing, and he could not fail to be impressed by his two beautiful hostesses, Lady Dudley and Lady Londonderry ; but Lady Ormonde, who was at both houses, seemed to have especially i charmed him, and he was so struck by a face he saw at the opera that ho made a point of finding out all he could about it. It was a ladv who sat in Lady Bland ford s box, a call, handsomo woman, with bright golden hair and large blue eyes; but 110 one seemed to know her name. i There is great annoyance at the Court of Vienna in consequence of the failure of the attempt to arrange a marriage between the Archduke Francis Ferdinand and the Prin cess Elizabeth of Bavaria, who is a granddaughter of the Emperor Francis Joseph. The Archduke declared that lie found it impossible to fall in love with the Princess, and that unless he can make a marriago of affection he will remain single. The Archduke Francis Ferdinand is the nephew of the Emperor, and the eldest son of the Archduke Charles Louis, and therefore ultimate heir to the throne. \ He is enormously rich, having inherited the vast fortune of the Duke of Modena. Miss Malaprop sometimes hits the nail on the head. It rained in torrents as she left the church one Sunday morning lately without an umbrella. "How irrigating this is !" she cried.