LADIES COLUMN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXVIII, Issue 8670, 12 September 1891, Page 4 (Supplement)

LADIES COLUMN.

HOUSE-WRAPPER, TiiK-gowns and house-wrappers are more lady-like and artistic than ever. They fit comfortably, but their Princess backs are so finely curved as to produce the effect of a closo adjustment at the back and sides ; and the fulness in front may be confined by ribbon ties. One style of tea-gown may have a denii-train and can be developed in plain or figured challis, China silk, crepe de chine, and Bengaline, as well as in summer camel's hair and other lightweight woollens. Equally fashionable is a tea-gown that does not quite touch the lloor ; and this is particularly well adapted to soft washable silks woollens, and cottons, either plain or printed. Sleeves may differ'from the rest of the garment to which they belong; and the latost design for renovating tho sleeves of partly-worn bodices is known as the Venetian, a very graceful shape, showing a

profusion of wrinkles at its full top. Palegrey cashmere and reseda moire ribbon are here combined in the wrapper, .with exquisite effect-. The wrapper fronts fall over baspue fronts of lining that arc smoothly fitted by double bust-darts and closed at the centre with cord laced through eyelets ; they are shirred several times at the neck for some distance back of the closing, and the fulness falls free below, but may bo held in,

if desired, by ribbons or a metal, passementerie, or cord girdle. Back of the shirrings the fronts are faced with moire ribbon, the facing extending to the armholes with unique effect. At the sidds the fronts are rendered smooth and close by long under-arm darts, and the closing is invisibly made. The back of the wrapper is in Princess style and has the fashionable dip and graceful, underfoldcd fulness below the waist-line of its middle three seams. A broad band of moire ribbon trims the bottom of the wrapper, and simulates deep, round cuffs on the sleeves, which are becomingly elevated on the shoulders. The collar is a modified Medici shape, and is cut from the ribbon. Velvet, bengaline, brocade, or any preferred contrasting material may be used instead of the ribbon here pictured, or the decoration may consist of rows of marrow velvet or silk ribbon, metallic or other braid, passementerie, gimp, itc. All sorts of materials suitable for house-gowns may be made up by the illustration. A rose quilling will form a stylish foot garniture, and a similar quilling may decorate the neck and wrists, and pass down the closing. Jabots of chiffon will also trim the neck, closing, and wrists handsomely.

SHAPED CAPE. This cape is hero pictured developed in lace flouncing and silk and lace edging; passementerie and ribbon contribute dainty garniture. The fronts and back of the cape are joined in shoulder-seams, and extend a short distance below the waist-line, and the closing is made at the front with hooks and loops. The capo sections are adjusted by shoulder-seams and cross-seams that curve over the shoulders. The front and back edges of the cape sections are finished with hems, and are arranged upon the fronts and back to meet at the waist-lime at the centre of the back and at the closing. At the front two forward-turning, overlapping plaits are arranged back of cach hem ; at the back two backward-turning plaits nro laid in front of each hem, and all the plaits flare prettily,**!pward and pass into the shoulder-seams. The plaits are tacked at intervals to the fronts and back beneath, and the waist-line they fall free to the edge. The cape sections fail over the arms with stylish fulness, resulting from gathers in the lower edges of tho cross-seam, and extra fulness allowed at. tho end of each cross-seam is underfolded in two small forward-turning . plaits at tho front and

in two backward-turning plaits at tho back, tho plaits all flaring gracefully below. The capo is nicely conformed to the figure at he waist-line by a belt ribbon tacked to the fronts and back underneath. At the neck is a Medici collar, to accommodate the long, tapering ends of which the fronts are cut away above the bust. The collar is ornamented at tho outside with a row of passementerie, and a dainty plaiting of lace edging trims it at the inside. The back and fronts arc covered with plaited facings, of lace flouncing, and jet passementerie decorates the side edges of the facings and forms a "V" at tho front and back. The cross-seams are concealed

beneath full box-plaited ruchings of lace (louncings, and a bow of ribbon decorates the back at the waist-lino.—Tho Australasian.

Apparently the dancing young man has effaced himself. Either our gilded youth have grown more languorous, or they have come to the conclusion that terpsichorean exercise can be much more gracefully and attractively . performed by young ladies alone. To whatever cause it is attributable (writes "Miranda" in the Lady's Pictorial) the unwillingness of the " smart young man" to attend dances is unmistakable. This is a dull season, viewed from any point, and it is, therefore, doubly hard on hostesses who have tried to infuse a little gaiety into it by organising balls to find that, they have piped unto the " goinmeux" in vain. At one or two of the

repent smart dances the girls have been absolutely destitute of partners, and have stood, mortified and dull, hoping against hope that some of the exquisites would spare an hour or two when they had grown weary of baccarat and poker at the clubs. Unless the young man of the period will condescend to restore dancing to his favour balls will certainly cease to be included among fashionable entertainments. Women will assuredly grow tired of being bidden to dance in vain, and hostesses of giving unsuccessful entertainments.