A TRIP TO THE LAKES.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXVII, Issue 8288, 21 June 1890, Page 1 (Supplement)

A TRIP TO THE LAKES.

No. XI. T A U P 0. [by our special correspondent.] In my last I stated that having spent three pleasant days at Geyser House, Wuirakei, I pushed on to JOSHUA'S SPA (LOFLKY'S GLEN), one of the favourite places of tourist report in the Taupo district. It is about two miles out of Taupo township, and it was hero where the Russian Grand Duke and suite lived while doing the Lake country during the stay of the Russian cruiser Eynda in Auckland harbour. There is an entry in the visitors' book in which the Grand Duke expresses his satisfaction with the arrangements during his stay at the Spa for the accommodation of his party. The Grand Duke could speak but little English, though well acquainted with French, and ,\z Mr. Joshua as also conversant with the latter language, tho stay of the distinguished visitor was made increasingly pleasant to him. His Imperial Highness had lengthy conversations with Mr. Joshua, regarding the Tairpodistrict and its natural wonders and scenery. Among other distinguished visitors at the Spa have been the Earl and Countess of Onslow, our ex-Governor, Sir William Jervois, Admiral Fairfax and suite. The entrance to the Glen is planted with pines, blue gums, weeping willows, etc., the homestead consisting of about, seven acres. There is accommodation lor 25 tourists, the system adopted being that of detached cottages, thus giving privacy. The Spa has been greatly enlarged and improved during Mr. Joshua's occupancy, and the visitor enjoys every convenience. The whole establishment has an air of comfort and refinement. THE BATHS AND SPRINGS. The Glen abounds in natural hot springs, and the tourist can have baths of any temperature—hot, tepid, or coldand of any quality, sulphur, iron, alum, etc. There is also an oil bath and a Venus bath. In the valley there are about a dozen mineral springs and a cold creek. The Alum or Bluo Bath is very luxurious for bathers, and believed to be equal to those at Kotorua. In the valley are hot springs suitable for skin diseases and rheumatism. We came across a party camped out in a tent beside one of the springs, who were undergoing a course of baths for rheumatism. In this locality there is a mud spring, which is used for local application with " success, principally for sprains, numbness, and rheumatism, etc. From the Alum, or Blue Bath, we went to the Sulphur Bath. This is a real spa water, next to that of Te Aroha. It has an alkaline reaction, and when cold has the real orthodox " rotten egg " smell. These various springs unite and fall through Mr. Joshua's garden in two creeks. In the creek near the Utilised bridge, in the quadrangle of the Spa, are to be seen within an area of eight feet, in the same creek, three distinct springs, boxed in for domestic purposes. Some visitors drink the water from these springs. Analysis of the water of the hob creek show that it contains iodine, and is yood for sprains, etc., while the large swimming pools are ' good for skin diseases. At the junction of the hot and cold water streams a bath was originally designed giving every variety of temperature according to the wishes of the visitor. Mr. Lofley constructed small temporary sluices to regulate the supply, and keep the waters distinct, This has been greatly improved by Mr. Joshua, and the bather steps into a tepid bath finding a colder stream on running along the floor. If he takes the course to the right the water gets hotter and hotter, and at its hottest, seats have been provided for the full enjoyment of the bath, which is large enough for swimming in. Leaving the hot baths the swimmer eiders on the left hand a greatly refreshing and colder stream. Then returning through the tepid bath he can climb over a small barrier and enjoy the delightful sensation of the douche or cataract" pouring in full volume over his shoulders. One of the most enjoyable baths in the country is without doubt where these two streams mingle, and every advantage has been taken to secure privacy, comfort, and thorough enjoyment. The facade of the building at the large swimming pool is uniquely decorated with Maori carvings. There is a small bath, exclusively for ladies, also in the grounds. It is very grateful to the tourists coming in from the North (Rotorua route), or from the South (Napier route), to be able, after their long and dusty ride, to plunge into any of the various baths. From the Spa, I may say in passing, can be visited the Huka Falls, and Rotokawa, or Sulphur Lakethe latter being about seven miles distant.

The valley is planted with vines, poplars, gums, and willows, and is grassed. I noticed also a tine specimen of the Wellingtonia gigantea. Mr. Joshua is steadily continuing Lis improvements in planting and adorning this pleasant tourist retreat, a work in which he is displaying good judgment and refined taste. Great attention is paid to the garden, and also to horticulture. The lawn is adorned with flowers, ferns, and pot plants. At the farm Mr. Joshua has good feed for horses, so that tourists can ride over and obtain the necessary accommodation for their horses. He is a great poultry fancier, and after many experiments rinds that the Plymouth Mocks, of which he has large broods, are the best for the Taupo district. At the homestead is raised all the dairy produce necessary, so that, there is plenty of milk and cream for the tourits. THE MAORI CARVKD HOUSE —TIL' TOURISTS' DINING-ROOM. Mr. Joshua is erecting a M .ori carved house which is, without doubD, the finest specimen of native carving in the hands of any private individual in thj colony. I should advise the Government to keep their eye upon it, with a vie a- to its purchase at some fitting opportunity. He intends to use it as a summer dining-rcjin for tourists, amd to visitors from Australia, Europe, or America it will prove of &reat interest, as familiarising them with the best specimen of Maori carving in the oolony. The carved house was the handiwork of the natives of Oruanui settlement, and represents the labour of many year.;. It was executed to commemorate their ancestors, and is 50 feet long by 24 feet broad, and contains-10 pieces of massive native carving. There are ten panels on each side, the figures holding meres, l.aiahas, or hatchets. The two gable carvings which sustain the roof are 16 feet in height and about 2 feet 0 inches through, while the ridge pole is one and a half tons in weight, and decorated with carvings. The upright column in the centre is called a tekoteko, and represents the ancestor to whom it is dedicated, who is in the act of killing a lizard which is attacking him. I have not seen any native carving executed with such artistic boldness and freedom. It appears, according to the legend, that the lizard was worrying the tribe, and this chief was appealed to, to do the St. George business, and he did it. There are three Maori carvings on each side of the portico of the carved house. The bargeboards, executed in native designs, are j 21 feet 6 inches long. A Maori pataka, which will be the envy of Tawhiao, is to be erected adjacent. The Maori carved house, where tourists will banquet amid a long line of Maori ancestors, and surrounded by the quaintest specimens of Maori art, will be one of the most unique sights in the Lake country. Mr. Joshua appears to have a penchant for Maori carvings, as they are to be seen all over the grounds of the Spa, at the baths, the smoking-room, bar, etc. SURROUNDING NATURAL WONDERS. From the Spa to the Waikato River is about ten minutes' walk, and Mr. Joshua kindly chaperoned me to the natural wonders adjacent. On the way to the river is seen " The Porridge Pots," having about a dozen different tinted clays, and on the left, is the Valley of Death. Descending to the proper right bank of the river we came to the Crow's Nest, at the time of my visit silent, but when in action the geyser throws up water SO feet high. Following the margin of the river, wo saw in succession .a small Champagne Pool, and Milk Pool, the Little Crow's Nest, saline springs, and a geyser. Climbing up the slope we came to the Venus Basin, and a sweet spot known as Satan's Glory, where a subterranean pump of Brogdinagian dimensions is in full swing. At every stroke of the invisible pump a vast body of hot water is expelled from the cavernous depths. Retracing our steps we went up another ravine to the Witches' Cauldron. This was cue of the most beautiful sights of its

kind 1 had saen in my travels in the Lake Country. The background of the cauldron was tinted in gorgous hues, the elms being alternately in gold, yellow, brown, green, and copper-coloured. As the rays of the afternoon sun wera thrown into it, the colouring was simply gorgeous, and the scene worthy of a painters brush. The same phenomenon is observable here as at Karapiti. On striking a match, or lighting fern in the vicinity, the cauldron immediately became furious in its action. Passing along we came to a curious fumarole called " The Paddle Wheel," the sound in the orifice being exactly like that made by the paddle wheel of a steamer. The whole locality is very interesting, being full of rare and interesting sights. During my stay in the Taupo district, I paid a visit to

BOSS'S TAUI'O SANATORIUM. Mr. Ross, formerly of the firm of Ross and 1 Ricketts, of Taupo and Tokaanu, has just ' built a fine hotel at Onikanika, at a cost of close on £2000, about three miles out of \ Taupo, on the main road to Napier, ' and for which a license has been granted . by the Taupo Licensing Bench. A new > deviation of the main road has been ' laid out by Mr. Blyth, by which half a mile is saved in distance, and < a better grade obtained. The road will ' pass the Sanatorium. The new estab- ' lishment is beautifully situated, and commands a magnificent view of the bay, on < which Taupo proper is situated, and of ' Maungatika Island, Ruapehu and Ton- ' gariro, of Tokano under Kakaramea, and of the Lake as it trends away i to the Western Bay. To the right, I on the foreshore of the lake, is the I native settlement of Waipahihi. Behind the Sanatorium some three miles dis- '< tant, Tauhara (the Lone Lover) towers ' up some 3000 feet, while eastward is to be seen Opepe, the scene of one of the saddest episodes in the Maori war—the surprise and massacre by the Maoris of a detachment of Tauranga volunteer cavalry. There are two balconies, front and back, so that the tourist after viewing the grand lake scenery and Ruapehu and Tongariro from the front one, can proceed to the back and see the hot baths in the valley below, and Tauhara over all. Tauhara has a fine crater on its eastern side, and for an expenditure of £50, it is stated, a bridle track could be cut at an easy grade up the mountain, enabling tourists to make the ascent easily. From the crest of the noble mountain a grand view is obtainable of the whole surrounding country, including Waiotapu Valley, Tarawera, and all the country intervening, as well as away to Runanga on the Napier road. THE BATHS. At the rear of the hotel is a glen, similar in formation to that at Joshua's Spa, which contains the hob springs and pools, and is about five acres in all. One of the pools is about an aero in extent, and the other half that area. There are terraces at tho upper end, in which the hot I springs have their rise, as also in a ravine leading to Tauhara. The springs contain iron, sulphur, alum, etc., the temperature ranging about 112 degrees. Two bathing houses have been erected, with the necessary conveniences for visitors. This glen was formerly a favourite camping place for the natives, and oue of Te Kootiis leading fighting chiefs used to spend a good deal of his time there. Te Rood's followers used to squat in the pools for hours at a stretch, and have their food placed on a little island in the centre of one of the pools, in a cooking box, where the water was at a temperature of 180 degrees, so that they could obtain their meals without leaving the baths. The warm flats in the glen, along the margin of the pools, are being utilised as a vegetable garden, and the balance planted out as an orchard. THE HOTEL. The hotel contains 14 bedrooms (single and double), two sitting-rooms, large dining-room, kitchen with commodious range, and all the conveniences incident to such an establishment. lb will have accommodation for 25 tourists. The inside woodwork is excellently finished ; the ceilings were brought from Napier, and the panels on the grand staircase, and the dados on the landing, are executed in mottled kauri, rewarewa, and other ornamental woods. The timber for the building cost £1 per 100 feet, by the time it reached the site, so that Mr. Ross's expenditure has been heavy, and it is to be hoped he will be rewarded -lor his enterprise. The grounds are being 1 planted with pine trees, poplars, etc. Tin Taupo Sanatorium holds the surue vantage ground as Wairakei, afr the other end of the Taupo tourist route, namely, that it will be the first place of arrival for tourists going northward, and the last point of departure for tourists going southward. TAUPO TOWNSHIP. The township is prettily situated on the point where the Waikato river debouches from Lake Taupo, and after many devious wanderings finds it? way to the ocean. At one time it was a busy place, owing to the sittings of the Native Lands Courts and the presence of a large body of the Colonial Field Force. It is the terminus of the Taupo and Napier coach lines, and at Gallagher's hotel the tourist can find comfortable accommodation. There is a splendid view of the lake and surrounding scenery obtainable from its upper apartments. Noble's accommodation house provides suitable accommodation for another class of the travelling public. The arrangements for the tourist traffic ' on the lake are rather unsatisfactory. There are two steam launches, neither of which are running, consequently the tourist is dependent on sailing boats and yachts. The smaller steam yacht was owned by Mr. Sproule, bub since his death nothing has been done with her. Mr. Daniel Fernie, better known as " Dan the Boatman," has a larger one, from 20 to 30 tons, with cabin accommodation for ten persons, : which would justanswer all therequirements of the traffic on this great lake, for the smaller one was sometimes unable to face the sea which occasionally rises suddenly upon its waters, bub the Government will not allow ' him to run it without a certificated engineer. He had one, but the tourist traffic on the lake, being in its infancy, was not ' sufficiently remunerative for the payment of an engineer, and the launch had to be laid up. Mr. Fernie has pleasure boats and yachts, but tourists will not risk in a trip to Tokaanu the uncertainty, and delay of sailing 1 boats when a steam launch would take ' them across in some three hours. In 1 order to promote tourist traffic by the ! new Taupo-Wanganui route the Govern- * ment might, at an early date, contribute ' a subsidy sufficient to run the launch [ weekly to Tokaanu. Mr. Fernie has a ' yacht capable of accommodating over half- ? a-dozen passengers, under hatches, which ' makes trips on the lakes. He is the con- ; tractor for carrying the mail to Tokaanu, ' and makes the trip single-handed in his 3 boat; but, being a skillful and experienced " boatman, has hitherto sustained no 3 mishap. Tourists occasionally get him to pull them down the Waikato river from its ' point of exit from the lake to some islets ' about a mile above the Huka Falls, beyond • which it is not safe to venture, for fear of 1 being swept over the Falls. The sail down 1 the river is a delightful one, as the boat Q drifts with the majestic current, silently 3 past cliff and headland, the broad bosom of ' the river mirroring the foliage on its 3 margin with wonderful distinctness of out- ' line and unerring fidelity.