A TRIP TO THE LAKES.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXVII, Issue 8282, 14 June 1890, Page 1 (Supplement)

A TRIP TO THE LAKES.

No. X. WAIRAKEI. [BY our special CORRESPONDENT.] In my last I gave an account of a day's wanderings in Geyser Valley. Next morning I started for a ride to the famous AP. ATE ATE A RAPIDS, some three or four miles from Wairaliei. The party consisted of two lady tourists, Mr. Graham as guide, and myself. Leaving the homestead we turned into the formed portion of the new Taupo-Galatea-Rotorua Road, and headed down the valley along the banks of the Waikato, which was hidden from view by high banks. Half a mile onward we forded the Wairakei Creek, which, laden with all the outflow of Geyser Valley, hurries in a strong and rapid stream to the Waikato. Crossing Toitoi Flat we struck the Waikato on emerging from it, which at this point is adorned with picturesque islets, one of which bright and green above the rest was dotted with water-cress. The view of the river is very fine. Heading inland, we ascended by a tortuous bridle track, the ridge several hundred feet high, from which we got our first view of the Arateatea Rapids, half a mile in length, and having a fall of '210 feet from point to point. Through an opening in the manuka, on the ridge we got a magnificent view of the Narrows, where the broad river contracts and braces itself to rush through the gorge. The rapids consist of a series of short races, through which the river madly plunges in a series of miniature Huka Falls. The range 011 the proper left bank is clothed to the water's edge in bush. At intervals, half way down the range, is a series of spurs of basaltic rock, as if guarding the pass, from whence the visitor can see the rapids to advantage. All along the rapids at short distances are little bays on either side, scooped out by the back-wash and swirl of the foaming torrent, which can be seen through the tall manuka leaping and tossing like a geyser as it plunges into the next race, hemmed in by the walls of basaltic rock which sentinel the gorge. The second point of view is got by following a path through the bush down a steep declivity for 200 feet, and carefully picking one's way along one of the projecting spurs of basaltic rock above mentioned. The spur is only a few feet in width, with a drop of .'IOO feet below for the incautious tourist into the mysterious depths shrouded in bush, and the raging cataracts below. We had some qualms about taking ladies down so difficult and weird* a track ; bat, as they cheerily and courageously insisted that where men could go they would follow, we picketed the horses, and adventured to tackle the declivity and the spur. The ladies proved capital bushwomen, with plenty of nerve and selfpossession, and were rewarded for all their toil and trouble on getting on the coign of vantage on the spur. From this point a magnificent view is obtained of the centre of the rapids. Here you catch a glimpse of broad basins and narrow channels, rocky islets, and precipitous banks, between which latter rushes transparent water of every shade, from the dullest blue to the most delicate emerald, and foam of dazzling whiteness. Here is an islet, the rugged battlements of which seem to defy the surging surf, and along the rocky sides of which the masses of spray dash at lightning speed, while in the deep bays scalloped in the mountain side, the backwater, swirling and surging, goes its endless and weary round. Retracing our stops along the narrow basaltic pathway, with Scylla and Charybdis on either hand, one prolonged struggle through the bush, with its undergrowth of creepers and mosses, brought us once more to the crest of the range. Proceeding further down we reached a projecting point, front which a third view of the rapids is obtained, namely, of the last rapids, where the river, moving swiftly round the base of the precipice on which you stand, rushes foaming through the last long narrow race, and at last emerges placidly in the plain below. Hera the whole series of rapids can be seen from end to end. Nothing can be a greater contrast than the lichen-covered precipices giving back the roar of the cascades, and the river, frenzied and maddened, leaping in foam over the rapids, and that same river, gliding peacefully past Watene's settlement in the plain below, a perfect picture of placidity and quietude. The party were delighted with the magnificent view, and felt well repaid for ail their toil.

Across the river can be seen the banks of t he celebrated lake Rotokawa (Bitter Lake). The tourist can either take this lake in his day's trip to the Arateatea rapids or the alum caves of Orakei-Korako, 14 miles from Wairakei. Rotokawa is alive with duck and teal, and is famous for its curious sulphur deposits and formations. To do the alum caves of Orakei - korako, instead of crossing t.he river at Waone's, as, in going to Rotokawa, the tourist strikes inland from the river, till reaching the Orakei-Korako settlement the river is crossed to the caves. Australian tourists who made the trip informed me that they were well pleased with the visit. The entrance to the caves is enclosed with tree ferns, so that the visitor pushing his way through manuka suddenly comes 011 to a (light of steps, which brings him to the flat at the entrance, on which are growing tree ferns. Passing these ferns he enters a chamber 100 feet in length, strewn with boulders, lighted from the entrance, but in the inner chambers candles are necessary. In addition to the quaint alum formations, there were formerly a series of hot springs, but they are now quiescent. There is a pool of clear green water at the bottom of the cave. Formerly the pool could be bathed in, but since the Tarawera eruption it has became too hot, and has subsided four feet below its former level.

FIRORIRORI, OR BLUE TAKE.

Next day we drove out to Sulphur Hill and Pirorirori, or Blue Lake, two miles distant from Geyser House. There are a series of pools from it, the waters of which fall into the Kiriohinekai, which supplies the House. Formerly the-natives

bathed in this lake, bat since the Tarawera eruption it' has been at boiling temperature. Part of the cliffs are of hematite, and tas whole surrounding ground heated, treacherous, and dangerous to travel upon. The western bank is partly clothed with light bash, fern, and manuka. There is a cave on the south side approached through an avenuo of ferns, nearly level with the latter, and out of which a stream cold as crystal isrunning. Mr. Graham and myself explored the cave for 3ome distance. In the olden tribal feuds of the natives of the Wairakei district this cave was used as a shelter place. Standing at the mouth of the crystal stream flowing out of the grotto, the deep blue lake lying beyond in the sunlight, embowered in a wealth of foliage, 1 could scarcely imagine a more romantic spot, and I do not wonder that Sir William Jervois delighted to wander here with his sketchbook. On both sides of the road down to the homestead are to be seen mud cones and solfataras, some of which were in action and others extinct.

KABAPITI (SCREAMING HOLE). Ivarapiti is about a mile or so from the homestead. The tourist passes up the valley on the right of Wairakei-Taupo Road, at the head of which is the farm. Here the range has to be ascended and crossed, Karapiti being at the foot of it. There is a good deal of rotten ground, but with a guide no danger need be experienced, and Mr. Graham knows the locality thoroughly. Karapiti is said by some to be one of the safety-valves of the Taupo district, and the natives going out on Lake Taupo fishing, aro guided by its signs as to the weather being fine or otherwise. The steam comes out of an aperture, which is lined with sulphur, at a high pressure which requires to be seen to be appreciated. Branches of brushwood which we threw in towards the opening were caught by the fierce blast and cast 20 to 30 feet into the air. A singular phenomenon in connection with it is that if a match is struck even ten feet away from the steam hole, or a fire lit with fern, it immediately commences to belch out furious clouds of steam. It is only necessary to stand incautiously within the fringe of the heated blast in order to comprehend the tremendous subterranean forces at work here and in Geyser Valley, which is on the same line of thermal activity.

OKOREWAI SPRINGS. Near Karapiti are a series of coloured springs, called Okorewai, or coloured waters. They" are all in the same pool, but do not mix, the patches of colour being quite distinct. All the belt between Karapiti and Sulphur Hill, out to near the Taupo Road, appears to be pitted with solfataras, fumaroles, &c., and the ground wholly dangerous for travelling.

HUKA FALLS. Leaving Karapiti, we proceeded to the Huka Falls, just beyond which is the Taupo boundary of the Wairakei estate. Shortly before reaching the Huka Falls we came to the Venus Bath, celebrated for its curative properties in certain skin diseases. Turntig aside from the coach road, a buggy can be taken close to the suspension bridge which spans the Falls. The bridge is closed for traffic, being regarded in its present state as dangerous. It appears that the breaking strain of the wire ropes is not half so great as was calculated, and steps will bo taken to have the bridge strengthened. Through a curious oversight no turnstiles were erected, and it seems that the Maoris rode their horses across it, in order to avoid the detour by the Taupo bridge. From the centre of the bridge a grand view is obtained of the rapids above the Falls, and of those below the bridge, to the point where the river, pent up between the basaltic walls of the gorge, makes its final leap into the large amphitheatre below. A short distance above the rapids the river flows on broad, swift, and silent, and then goes over the ledge of rock running from the proper right bank in an unbroken sheet, the yellow colouring of the rock ledges being seen through the translucent water. Just at the entrance of the basaltic gorge into which the river has' to contract itself, is a large boulder, on to which, according to Taupo tradition, one Wanganui chief leaped and escaped, when Tamateapokarwhenua and his sixty-eight Wanganuis vain - gloriously attempted to shoot the Huka rapids, in their canoe, and got swallowed up in the maelstrom below the falls for their pains. Fifty yards down the margin of the gorge is a huge detached rock, 30 feet high, same in length, and 3 feet in width, round whicji the waters rage and swirl. The most daring tourists leap on to this narrow rocky plateau, in order to see the rapids, five in number, from end to end, and the final plunge of the column of water over the Huka Falls. Half-way from the rapids ther« is a path down the face of the bank, leading to a beautiful recess or cave, where the visitor gets on a level with the rushing water, and sees the river rush past him in crested billows of foam in all their majesty and grandeur. In the rapid above the falls, the water is tossed and turned in great eddying masses, throwing up sheets of spray before going over the ledge of rock .10 feet into the basin below, from which it boils off into its old calm and even flow between the shrubcovered cliffs. Just below the falls a path down the bank of the river leads to the grotto, a recess from which the falls themselves can be viewed amid the thunder of its waters and the mist of its spray. There is a cave or recess behind the falls scalloped out at the base of the rocky ledge, but the approach to it is rather dangerous. No one who loves to see alike the beautiful and grand in Nature, can fail to be delighted and impressed by visiting the Huka Falls. Side by side with the sentimental lies the practical, and it was rather a jar on the romance of the situation, to see on getting out of the rainbow hues of the drifting spray of the Falls, the shags perched on the stumps, waiting Micawber like, for ."something to turn up." It appears that some of the fish from Lake Taupo, go down the river with the stream, get swept into the rapids, and over the Falls, where, dizzy and stunned by their fall, they become an easy prey to the birds. After spending three pleasant days at Geyser House, Wairakei, seeing the lions" of the district, (and it takes about three days to see them thoroughly and comfortably), I pushed on to Joshua's Spa, (Lofley's (Hen), Taupo, which is also a sanatorium favourably known, and much patronised by tourists. What I saw there I must reserve for my next.