THE GARDEN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXV, Issue 9202, 3 November 1888, Page 4 (Supplement)

THE GARDEN.

OPERATIONS FOR THE WEEK END

TNG NOVEMBER 10. Chrysanthemums. — The value of these showy autumnal flowering plants cannot well be overestimated. They produce a rich display of bloom at a season when other flowers are very scarce, and on this account alone merit special attention. By a judicious selection of varieties the blooming- period may be prolonged late into the season. Of late years the cultivation of the chrysanthemum has perhaps received more attention than any other genus, consequently every year brings forward a fresh lot. of varieties, superior to those previously raised. The Japanese section is the most popular. The flowers of these are generally large and loose, with long florets, sometimes twisted and thread-like, of fantastic and pleasing appearance. Now is the best time for putting out a collection of these useful flowering plants. Propagation is effected in two ways : either from suckers or cuttings, and also from division of the old stools. The best and most satisfactory plants are produced from cuttings or suckers singly. These should now be well rooted, and lit for transplanting into places where they are intended to bloom. The soil requires to be rich ; a good loam, not too light, is the best. A little cow manure should be added. In bedding out be careful to arrange the colours so as to harmonise. Ola plants do not produce as good results as those raised from cuttings or offshoots. Dahlias, another popular genus of plants, are also indispensable for the autumn decoration of the flower garden. Now is also the most suitable season for planting out young plants. Dahlias are strong growing subjects, and naturally require a moderately rich, deeply-worked soil to produce the best results. The mixed border is the most desirable situation for showing off the flowers to best, advantage, being backed up with shrubs. The single varieties are most effective when planted in masses in large circular beds. As with chrysanthemums, particular attention has been devoted to the production of new varieties. Dahlias are divided into four principal classes, known as show, fancy, bouquetor pompone, and single-flowered. There is also a small section comprised under the heading of cactus dahlias. These represent a distinct and very beautiful class. The single-, flowered varieties have become very popular. The flowers of these are most useful for cutting for bouquets or for placing in vases. The more tender bedding plants may be transplanted into the flower beds. Splendid effects may be produced by petunias massed together in beds. Salvia splendens may also now be transplanted into the open flower bed, the plants requiring a little protection until they become established and take root-hold. In sheltered situations this salvia is most useful for late blooming. Look well to thinning out of annuals and transplanting to take place of bulbs that are over, not forgetting to find places for a considerable number of Phlox Drurmnondii, as this is altogether one of the most useful of annuals for production of rich display of bloom for several months continuously. Bulbs that have done flowering, and are ripening off their foliage, should have labels or manes placed to denote their whereabouts and prevent their being dug up of destroyed when hoeing.

TOMATO CULTURE. This useful and wholesome fruit should be grown in every garden. The culture of the tomato is so simple that every cottager is in a position to grow their own fruit. It is surprising the enormous amount of fruit that can be taken from a very small space when the plants are properly attended to. Any ordinary garden soil will grow tomatoes successfully. The mistake is too often made by manuring the ground too heavily for tomatoes, which induces a too luxuriant growth, and consequently a greater amount of labour in stopping or cutting away superfluous growth. Many differ in the mode of culture, but my experience is there is only one way to grow tomatoes to ensure heavy crops and to successfully ripen fruit. I had a very good illustration of this last year. X had a certain number of plants

trained on trellises mode from rough laths; each plant was allowed to grow three or four strong leaders. These were stopped as soon as they reached the top of the trellis, about three feet six inches ; all side growths were taken out as soon as they made their appearance. The result was an enormous crop of very fine fruit, which were admired by all who saw them. I also planted a number of plants of the same variety, nearly double the amount more than were trained, in a most favourable situation, but gave them no attention in the way of stopping. The result was very unsatisfactory, the crop being very light, and the fruit small and very badly eaten with caterpillars. I think I must have had more than double the amount of sound fruit from the trained plants, though there were only about half the number of plants. _ The fruit would average double the size of those from the untrained plants. When once the plant reaches the height required, it should be stopped, and all side growths removed as soon as they start into growth. This forces the whole of the sap into the fruit, and nearly every fruit will set and ripen. When the fruit is set, an occasional watering with liquid manure will be beneficial. Kepos.