LADIES' COLUMN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXV, Issue 8974, 11 February 1888, Page 4 (Supplement)

LADIES' COLUMN.

FASHIONS IN SYDNEY DURING THE CENTENNIAL CELEBRATIONS. [FROM THE SYDNEY MAIL FEBRUARY 4.] During the week's celebrations in honour of the centenary of the cojony there have been several opportunities for noting tho changes in fashion. One of the most evident ii? the decrease in expansion of the skirts. Steels are nearly abolished, and the tournure, or improver, is decidedly much smaller. The organ pleats, which for a short time were freely worn, have now .had their day, and are rarely seen. Tho polonaise is increasing in favour, and tho adoption of vests, of which the blouse stylo is tho favourite, is almost universal. At the dedication of the Centennial Park, Lady Carrington wore a toilette of cream surah, with white lace trimming, and cream bonnet with blue bows. Lady Carnarvon wore white figured Liberty silk, with wide Valencionnes lace inserted in the drapery and placed on the skirt in an artistic manner ; a large number of loops of black ribbon were arranged to cross the front drapery and fall on either side, and a cluster of loops ornamented the right shoulder. Bonnet of black lace, with white and black ribbons. Lady Carrington has rarely appeared without a little centennial blue visible in her toilette. On Saturday the dress and bonnet of her ladyship were white ; in the latter a coronet of blue flowers formed tho front. On Monday Lady Carrington'« gown was of blue faille with Indian fabric in gold and bronze, forming a panel and scarf ; upon another occasion a charming gown of striped white satin and faille, with butterfly bows of blue velvet arranged on the right side of the back drapery with excellent effect, and bands of similar velvet crossing the bodice. Black net bonnet, with a coronet of white feathers, in the front a tuft of marabout hers and aigrette of buttercups. Lady Carnarvon at the same time woro black faille, the skirt falling in broad pleats from the waist to the edge, tho only trimming a cluster of loops of broad black ribbon fastened high at the right. Bonnet in two shades of grey, the darker in velvet, the lighter in tulle, and bows of ribbon matching the velvet. A mantelet of black net freely jetted was worn with this costume. At the regatta a very charming specimen of New York fashion was seen in a white toilette of finest cambric muslin, guipure embroidery lawn, and Valenciennes lace. The jacket bodice was open in front almost Zouave style, showing a vest and blouse ] drapery of the cambric muslin finely tucked vertically. This was apparently in three tiers, each bordered with a broad hem and edged with lace. Handsome guipure embroidery formed the sleeves, a panel on each side of the front drapery, and the V back of tho bodice. The back straight drapery was of lawn, and the fronts of the jacket were trimmed with lace. The design was quite unique, and the fairy-like fineness of the cambric used in front made an excellent effect of what in other materials would have been very trying to a figure. A dainty combination of white lace tulle and feathers made the bonnet, and an elaborate parasol of white silk and lace completed the toilette. A petticoat of white satin, veiled with black Chantilly lace, the bodice and back drapery of the same lace over black satin, made an elegant toilette ; a white straw bonnet with an Olivia front, trimmed with a coronet and upright wings of white pigeons' wings and breasts, accorded well with tho gown. A while Liberty silk, with facings and sash of white moire and handsome Duchesse lace inserted in a diagonal drape, and carried to the waist from the edge of the skirt, a full vest of lace to match, was greatly admired ; with it was worn a white straw bonnet, raised high in front and lined with poppy-red velvet, which was a most becoming contrast to the dark hair of tho wearer. The trimming was white wings and loops of ribbon. A Melbourne lady had a very uncommon combination of colours. The overskirt was of ticellecoloured canvas, draped on a foundation of reddish fawn silk. With the bodice of silk was worn a littleshoulder cape of the canvas, so cut as to form a sort of deep epaulette over the sleeve; abroad sash of silk fell over the back drapery ; the bonnet was of reddish fawn, shading to terra cot la, a combination of straw, velvet, and feathers with handsome buckles of cut steel. The various shades harmonised perfectly, and the costume was deservedly admired. The anniversary meeting of the Sydney Turf Club on Saturday last brought together a very large assemblage of ladies, and, the weather being line, a corresponding display of fashionable toilettes. White was worn in many instances, one of the handsomest gowns being of white Liberty silk, with V front and back on the bodice, and V-shaped epaulettes of light tan silk Maltese lace, with parements, and pockets faced with the same lace; a hat of white straw, the broad brim in front drooping in cavalier style ; at the back, turned up and secured to the crown, bows of white ribbon with silver ornaments and a plume of ostrich feathers waving from the back over the crown, was very becoming; and when later on in the afternoon a slight shower came on, and a dusteloak of cardinal silk edged with black velvet was added to the toilette, the effect was particularly good. Another very pretty white frock had white Valenciennes lace let in between the folds of muslin, both in the bodice sleeves and draperies, which gave a graceful lightness to the costume ; broad sash and bows of blue ribbon, white net bonnet with blue strings, completed a charming toilette. A third white lawn gown had the tablicr and sleeves entirely of embroidery, the lawn drapery falling in straight folds from the waist; a vest of satin surah Centennial blue was made loose blouse style, confined at the waist by a very handsome silver buckle. Palo heliotrope was chosen by 1 several ladies, the most noticeable being a gown of satin surah with a broad V in pearl beads of the same shade in heliotrope ; the beads, of various sizes, were worked into an elaborate floral pattern ; bands of ' similar bead embroidery were used on the skirt; the bonnet of heliotrope surah and ' lace, with feathers to match, was worn with . this striking toilette. A paler shade of heliotrope faille made the polonaise to a petticoat of satin and ottaman in horizontal . stripes of heliotrope and white ; a white bonnet with heliotrope trimmings completed a very dainty costume. Some very pretty frocks of spotted and striped Liberty . silks were worn ; one of navy blue was figured in diamond-shaped spots of white, made with long, straight draperies with a jacket bodice, fitting exquisitely ; a vest of white surah, and a hat of blue straw, with trimming of navy blue figured in white, were worn with the gown. A black foulard, with stripes formed of rows of white dots, graduated in size, the centre one being the largest, appeared to be elaborately made, but the effect was produced by varying the arrangement of the stripes, revers cut oil tho bias, tho bodice arranged with diagonal stripes, and tho draperies caught up to permit the stripes in falling to be at several angles. A black and white bonnet was worn with this.

A prejudice against mothers-in-law may justly be held to be going too far when it involves leaving them to be supported by the ratepayers. This has occurred to one of the visiting officers under what is called the Board of Supervision for the Relief of the Poor in Scotland. He conducts his argument with laudable tolerance for those who regard the mother-in-law as an infliction, but ho is inflexible in his conclusion that the ratepayers collectively must not be unnecessarily saddled with the burden of other people's mothers-in-law. It is strange, he says, to notice on the roll of nearly every parish the large proportion of widows who live alone, and yet havo married sons and daughters in whose families they should be welcome, and would certainly bo useful. Some times, he allows, there is incompatibility of temper, and " therb are, of course," he says, with an air of intimate knowledge, " widows with whom no one would willingly live." " There are also," he adds, judiciously balancing the argument, " daughters with whom it would be cruelty to place their mothers in contact." To conclude the whole matter, however, it is held not to admit of dispute that her daughter's house is the natural asylum for an aged widow no longer able to earn her own living. Now, Johnnie, go and kiss your little sweetheart and make it up," said Johnnie's mother. "No, I won't!" "Go and tell her how much you love her and how sorry you are." " No, I won't! Pa says he got into a breach of promise case by telling a girl that, and had to marry the old thing. I won't run any risks, I won't 1"