LADIES' COLUMN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXIV, Issue 8928, 17 December 1887, Page 4 (Supplement)

LADIES' COLUMN.

FASHION NOTKS.

For summer fate occasions the Liberty silk and Bengalines are the chief favourites ; the Corah silk, and a French manufacture in imitation of the Indian pongee, made for the firm of Liberty and Go., London, and now everywhere famous by the tittle of "Liberty silk." This is shown in all colours for day and evening wear. The colours are especially fast-dyed, and keep their brightness in spite of the sun ; this has been tested in shades of heliotrope, which in ordinary silks rank amongst the most treacherous. Liberty silk has figured prominently in reoent fashionable gatherings at Melbourne; one gown of this, in dark heliotrope, had the same silk in a much lighter shade combined; the skirts dark, with panels of the light, the sleeves dark and slashed with light; a second of light heliotrope Liberty silk had a deep collar and trimmings of black lace. A gown of oream Liberty silk was made with a vest of primrose silk in narrow folds; bows of primrose ribbon were introduced about the gown and in the cream-tinted bonnet. White liberty Bilk was in another case combined with rows of dark tan lace for trimming; facings of gobelin silk were introduced on the bodice, and skirt of another white Liberty silk gown. White Liberty silk frook, with bonnet and ribbons of vieux rose, made a pretty costume. One frook in cr*am liberty silk had the front entirely oovered in tiny flounces of cream lace; broad bauds of black velvet ribbon were looped across. This, with black velvet loops in a white net bonnet, made a charming costume. White Liberty silk, with lace on the draperies, was worn with a broad brimmed leghorn hat; and in another case the same silk, trimmed with facings of white moire. In addition to the use of , Liberty silk for dresses, it is greatly worn for sashes with the white muslin frocks, in which the embroidered part forms the complete skirt. For children's frocks the Liberty silk is very much used ; and as it washes well, aud is inexpensive, it is likely to main' tain its position in public favour. i The fiengilino, which is shown in so many beautiful designs, as well as in plain colours, is very effective, one handsome gown of bronze Bsngalioe, relieved with eau-de-nil, is a happy mixture of colour. A figured Bengaline, with plain pink gauze, made a dainty costume. Yellow is one of the most favourite colours for the season, and is frequently used with gobelin grey ; this combination requires great care, and demands that the shades should be tried together if success is to be assured. Yellow is also used with deep brown ; the sunflower colours aud the mixture is most effective. Gauze is coming into wear for fate and garden party costumes ; a gown of primrose gauze has been worn by a brunette, aud very much admired. Gauze, striped alternately with lace, has been used iu many pretty summer gowns, I'he weather, however, in by no means so settled as to render the woollen gowns useless ; and even when thin dresses are admissible, jackets or wrap* are generally provided. For morning we<r the light tweed and striped flannel jackets will be required and freely patronised for some time yet. The tendency to increasing brightness in colour, which has shown itself in the poppyred gowns and orange flowers of the past season, comes into prominence in the long coats of silk. These are made in surah of bright shades, reds, greens, oranges, and have long hanging sleeves lined with silks of light and delicate colours. They fit the figure, and are secured by passementerie ornaments down the front. When gauze and very tnia dresses are worn, and the weather is too cold to make them sufficiently warm, short jackets of plush are ad.ied. These are tight-fitting, and are generally made with a double revers ; these smart jackets are also made in light cloth and elaborately braided, or of plain cloth with the collar, cuffs, and laps of the packets in fancy cloth. A new ornament to be worn with indoor costumes and dinner toilettes, when the gown is high-necked, is a deep frill of soft etamine silk' or very fine muslin turned down with tight-fitting velveteen jackets, which have been already mentioned as fashionable for indoor wear, in blue or green, these frills or collar* are worn, and similar frills are placed at the wrist; these jackets are worn over skirts of any colour or material. Willow green and sea green shading to gold are two favourite summer colours ; they have been produced in velveteen of exceedingly light quality and delicate finish, and are much used for trimming summer dresses and in combination with cashmere for cool day costumes. In ribbons the much-sought-for picot edges have had their day, aud are replaced by plain edges; shot velvet ribbons with satin backs, and the well-named Chameleon ribbons are coming into notice; there are some of the green and red shot ribbons which are exactly the oolours uned in George 11. period. For children some very charming dresses aro made in stripes of velvet ribbon and embroidery : the yoke is of velvet, the stripes are vertical, and the sleeves formed t j match the skirt, both being edged with embroidery. Maroon velvet and tan-coloured embroidery, pale blue and white, pink and white, are equally effective. For school frocks there are light sergettea and other woollen fabrics which are more popular than prints, and are preferred by many mothers for their daughters, particularly if they are daily pupils and have to journey backwards and forwards ; plain skirts, sometimes braided ; blouse bodices, with sailor collars, or yoke bodices with belts. Full sleeves stitched in at the shoulder and frilled into bands at the wrists belong to the fashion for these frocks. Hoods, which are gradually coming into wear, are now generally affixed to morning gowns, tea gowns, aud eveu dressing gowns ; also on walking jackets. In these oases they are generally lined with a bright silk, contrasting with the colour of the garment. Very pretty hoods a-e.now used for theatre aud evening wear, and are useful upou leaving a heated room, even at this season of the year. Amongst the new colours is a beautiful blue-green, which has been named "eucalyptus." It is of the delicate shade seen in the ; young leaves of our gum trees, and is con- > sidered the most artistic in the green tints i of the season. Eau-de-nil is now called "leman," and the brilliaut poppy red haa a lival in a new ruby colour named pavot. i The shades of heliotrope are innumerable ; ; the petunia tints are also favouring. Mousse (mouse-grey) is combined with heliotrope, terra ootta with gold, and a very rich yellow i "Cleopitra" is mixed with mud tints. JNielle ; is the name given to a shade of peach which is universally becoming. i Crochet pinafores worked in tan-coloured cotton, iu open pattern to show sateen foundations in light blue or oardiual, have been successfully carried out for children's wear, > and a broad sash of silk the same shade as the foundation iB worn over the pinafore. It is asserted that crochet tea gowns have also ; been made of tan-coloured silk instead of cotton. These would be rather oostly, and would occupy much time in working which i might be better employed.Sydney Mail.

The Queen ib devoted to the children of the Duke of Connaught. A number of pictures of the Queen on exhibition in London have these favourite grandchildren sitting in her lap or hanging upon her skirts. Greatly to her disappointment she has been obliged to give them up, because their mother insisted upon taking them with her to India recently. When the Duchess went to ludia last year the children were left with the Queeu, and the latter had hoped to keep them this time. The uuke of Connaught is the Queen's favourite son. The Duchess also stands high in the Queen's good graces. Whenrabsent she makes a point of writing to her august mother-in-law every other day.

American men will soon have no work to do, American women are going to do all the work on the Light Continent. Female doctors, female lawyers, female judges, female clerks of the peace, female pilots, female scavengers, female mayors, and female town oounoilloi'B, are to be found in plenty. And still the cry is They come; they come." Instead of the phrase, " The Coming Man,"it is now "The Coming Woman." And such a woman. Sicca the "divided skirt" was invented, American man has had to abdicate. If he were to divide his classic garment, who knows but perhaps he might get back his old authority ? " Say, dearest, if I should die before you, swear to me that you will never marry again." "Be calm, my love, I have already one mother-in-law."

Delia : " How is Mrs. Grenadine lately ? Is she perfeotly reconciled to the loss of her husband?'' Belle: "Yes, I think so; her mourning fits beautifully." Omaha dame : " What do yon think? , I have a girl who gets up in the morning without being called." Chorus of voices: "Impossible." Omaha dame: "But it is true ; she's in lovo with the milkman,"