A TRIP TO THE KAIPARA SETTLEMENTS.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXIII, Issue 7826, 21 December 1886, Page 6

A TRIP TO THE KAIPARA SETTLEMENTS.

[Ooontlnued.] THE ARAPAUA AND PAHI. Tail party re-embarked again, and the Kina soon rounded Batley Point; and headed np the Arapaua for Pahi. As bay after bay opened out with its wooded soenery or its green clearings on the right bank, those of the visitors who had never visited the distriot were emphatlo in their expressions of admiration. Ahead of the steamer the mullet gambolled. On the left bank from "The Funnel" the land is in the hands of the natives, and is leased by Messrs Coates Bros, as a run. On the right bank, above Batley Point, is the Whakapirau township, and the Government blook adjacent. Most of the allotments and sections have been bought by Auokland speculators and absentees, and nothing has been done, somebody apparently waiting for the "unearned increment." Above this township stretohes of surface grown grass land were to be seen in the various bays, and these are owned and occupied by small settlers up as far as Pahi. At the junotion of the Arapaaa and the Matakohe on the left bank are the fine farms of Messrs, Coates, Adams, and Metoalf, while beyond, in the distance, lay the green pastures and pleasant homesteads of the Matakohe and Faparoa settlers, giving every indication of thriving communities. Pahi township itself Is pleasantly situated at the dividing point, where the Arapaua, the Matakohe, and Pahi waters join. The houses are dotted over the Point, oouspicaous being the publio sohool, pablio hall, telegraph and post offioes, and hotel. The telegraph poles dotting the landscape show that that adjunct of civilisation is brought within the reach of the settlers. A REMINISCENCE = TWENTY YEARS AGO. As we looked on the pleasant scene stretched oat before us, we turned over the tablets of memory, by way of reminisoenoe, to contrast the ohanges and progress effected since our last visit twenty years ago. At that date, after getting from Auokland to Riverhoad by a waterman's boat, we tramped aoross the bullook traok yolept a road, knapsack on baok, the 16 miles to Helensville, a journey now all done by rail in three hours. The means of commucation with the now flourishing settlements on the Eaipara consisted of the royal mail paoket, the cutter Jalia, Captain Unthank, whioh made weekly tripe from Helensville to Port Albert, the Otamatea and Pahi. No steamer had yet vexed the waters of the Eaipara, giving oertainty and regularity to the communications of the settlers. The Albertlanders were then still in the midst of their difficulties, their prospects still tinged with that hope deferred whioh maketh the heart slok," and securing that wisdom in the sohool of experience whioh seems to be the lot of all pioneer settlers. The settlement at Pahi Point consisted principally of Mr. Haines and family, while Matakohe lay almost untouched by the hand of man, the dun brown of the landscape being unbroken and unrelieved by pleasant homesteads and clearings. As for the Northern Wairoa, with its growing townships, Kopuru was little more than a name ; a ratapu was in its infanoy as Bonar's mill; Maungawhare had simply a depot, where one Auokland firm bought all the gum and shipped all the timber; the Kaihu had not witnessed the outbreak of Dargaville's energy and enterprise; while from the sea to Jimmy Johnston's landing, 70 miles up the Northern Wairoa, there were not two score settlers on the banks of that noble river. What the facilities for communication and for reaching a market were, may be guessed when it is stated that on the Northern Wairoa, in some places, the pigs were fed on grapes, there being no means of sending fruit to market. That is the Past, but how ohanged the Present 1 And if so many and saoh great changes have been effected in the past twenty years, what may we not expect in the next two decades, when the shriek of the locomotive is heard at Port Albert as it speeds on northward on its journey to the settlements intervening between that distriot and the Bay of Islands. THE RUN TO TOKATAPU. The Eina, after a > brief stay at Pahi, sped past Pahi township on her way to | Captain Colbeok's residence, Aratapu, at the head of the river navigation. On the right bank was the sawmill of Mr Symonds, and the farms of Messrs. Jackman, MoMardo, Upton, and the Colbeok estate, the pasture land imparting a cheerful hue to the landscape. Mr. Alfred Buckland was greatly struok with the limestone formation of the land on the right bank of the river at this point, and its excellence for sheep runs, more j especially as foot rot would be unknown. He said the land greatly reminded him of the oharaoter of many of the Napier sheep runs. On the left were the homesteads of Messrs. DeLabrocse, New, and other settlers. As the steamer passed up the river, several volleys were fired from Mr. New's place as a weloome and salute to the visitors. When the Eina steamed round a point, the Union Jack oould be seen floating from the flagstaff in front of Captain Colbeok's villa residence, whioh is pioturesquely situated at the head of the navigation, and oommands a view of the reaches of the Pahi for miles. It was dusk when the party landed, the steamer running up to the landing plaoe in front of the grounds. Here they were joined by Mr. W, J. Smith, of the New Zealand Insurance Company, who had ridden over that day from Tokatoka. They were oordially received by Mr. Frank Colbeok, and every preparation had been made in the way of hospitality for th« oomfort and convenience of visitors. After dinner the evening was devoted to harmony, nearly every member of the company contributing some item to the general amusement. The songs were of all varieties—national, patriotio, conic, sentimental, and operatic, while several exoellent recitations were also contributed. Some of the party paced up and down the walks of the grounds, discussing questions of political economy, or admiring the beauty of the scenethe river, silvered by the moon's beams, and the range on the opposite bank, with its dark setting of ferest growth from base to summit. Thus wss the evening whiled away with song and sooial converse, till the witching hour and the strains of "Auld Lang Syne," and the National Anthem sent the visitors to their coaches. So olosed the first day of the excursion, whioh had been throughout one of unalloyed enjoyment. THE COLBECE ESTATE. The homestead, Tokatapu, is well sheltered by pinus insignis and by native bush on either hand, and is situated on a gentle slope rising from the river. At the rear is an orohard of some four acres in extent, with good aspeot. For soma couple of miles back is a fine stretoh of pasture land, from an eminenoe on whioh the country can be seen for thirty miles round. This estate is admirably situated, between Arapaua and Otamatea rivers, and comprises some 17,000 aores, in a oompaot block. First, is the Pukehuia, 6800 aores, of limestone foundation ; and second, the Okahnrewa, of 9552 aores, which is sandstone formation in southern end, and limestone on northern side. It contains heavy bush, puriri, and a small portion facing the Otamatea is unusually heavy. Nearly 4000 aores have been surface sown with grass seed, and the estate is at present oarrying 800 head of cattle and 4000 sheep. On the Okahurewa nothing has been done as yet, save making cattle tracks for mustering up, but 500 aores of bush have been fallen, and it is ready for burning, whioh will be done in Maroh. Cattle raising for the Auokland market is principally attended to, and the sheep are fattened and sold to supply the timber mills, Wild pigs and turkeys abound. Within the last six months 200 of the porkers have been killed. The whole of the estate is fenced in, principally by the natural boundaries of sea frontages, and by an inland boundary of three miles of fenoing from the Otamatea to the upper navigation of the Pahi. The following Is the analysis of the limestone formation, as made by Mr. Skey, analyst Carbonate of lime, 91*93; carbonate of magnesia, 3*10; iron oxides, 2*96 ; alumina, traces; siliceous matter, 1*77; water, 0*24. It greatly resembles the Whangarei limestone formation both in oompoaitition and appearanoe. On the boundary of the estate is the famous hill Marahemo, aoene of former inter-tribal strife. On one portion of the estate, near Marahemo, was an old Maori burial plaoe, and Capt. Colbeok, to get rid of the tapu, had the bones of the departed plaoed in a mausoleum, whioh he erected for that purpose, on his land opposite Pahi. A party of : the visitors, accompanied by Mr, Arthur Colbeok, rode aoross from the homestead to Curtis'* Wharf, "

at the head Of the navigation of the Otamatea, in order the better to see the distriot. They traversed a fine rolling country, partly opsn and partly bushthe latter being principally puriri and kauri, and mixed heavy timber, : The distance traversed in a bee-line would be about twelve miles, without getting out of the Colbeok estate. The saenery, especially in the forest, was beautiful, and one enthusiastio admirer of Nature began reciting snatches of Byron's "Isles of Greece." Occasionally they came across clearings where the bushmen had fallen the timber, and had got it on skids to the waterways. A PICNIC UP THE OTAMATEA. On Saturday morning, as soon aa the tide suited, the Kina started down the Pahi, —with a party of the visitors, the rest going overland on horsebaok—her destination being Curtis' Point, on the Otamatea, the rendezvous where a junction with the horsemen was to be effeoted, being at the Wairau Creek on the opposite side. Captain Colbeok s objeot in taking the party up was to enable the visitors to get a bird's eye view of the land on that side, the M&ngaturoto Block, and generally, the route which would be traversed by the Auckland North Trunk Railway. Wind and tide favouring, the Eina made an exoellent run. The trip up the Otamatea was a most enjoyable one, as many of the party had never visited the distriot previously. On the right bank was to be seen the residence of Mr. Nissen, who proposoa to start here ostrich farming, and whose shipment of ostriohes from South Africa to commence the industry was recorded in a recent issue. It is adjacent to the Wesleyan Mission Station where the Rev. W. Gittos resided for so many years, and laboured among the Kaipara natives. Hard by is the residence of the native teacher Martin White ; beyond is the tine farm of Te Ihu (1000 aores) the property of Captain Colbeok, but at present in the ocoupanoy of Mr. Linton. On the left bank was the pleasant native settlement of Kakaria, near Tanoa, with its runanga house, and its picturesque native churoh half hidden in the gorgeous bloom of the pohatakawa beside it. Tha houses of the nati> as, the appearanoe and extent of their cultivations, and the general social surroundings of the settlement, gave token that the missionary had not laboured in vain, and that his efforts to keep far removed from them the baneful effects of the liquor traffic had been crowned with success. After seeing the degraded sooial condition of the Maoris in the Lake Country (where thousands of pounds were annually poured into their laps), and the Kingite settlement of Whatihoehoe, where Kingism finds its best illustration, one could appreciate the contrast presented, and but regret that in these oases the same system had not been pursued, and the same interest manifested in the welfare of the raoe. The Maoris were all away from the settlement, having gone to the Heads to tangi over a chief who bad died there, and we found that Mr. Gittos had passed down the river the previous day on his way to the Heads to bury him. Opposite the settlement Mr. Symond's steam punt was lying at anohor, having in tow a raft of logs, whioh was being taken to the Pahi, to his sawmill there. About a mile farther on at the Tanoa was the native school, ' of whioh Mr. Qainlan is native teacher, the school and teacner's resideuce being picturesquely situated on the point. Mr. Quinlan has about 200 colonies of bees, which are attended to by the members of his family. A mile or so ahead, olose at the foot of a wooded range, within bisouit throw of the shore, could be descried the barque Grasmere, of Melbourne, loading up timber for Mr. Blair, of that oity. .still steaming on, we came on the right bank to a good tract of 1800 acres, which has been taken up by Mr. Young, of Glasgow, who oontemplates making extensive improvements. In the distance could be seen the improved farm of Mr. Taine, with a fine stretch of pasture land, and the farm of Mr. Curtis. The head of the navigation for steamers having been reached, the anchor was dropped, and the boats landed the excursionists, who prooeeded through the forest for about half a mile, crossing two fresh-water creeks till they reaohed the rendezvous agreed upon, with the party coming overland. As the horsemen had hot put in an appearance the time was filled up with athletic sports, eto. It was late in the afternoon ere the cavalcade reached the junction, owing to having to make a detour whioh extended their ride to 20 miles. After an interval for refreshment, a fresh batch of volunteers rode the horses, and on the trip home by taking a new route, sucoeeded in reaching Tekstapu before the steamer's party, who being unable to get op on the young tide above Pahi to any distance, took to the boats, and with four ginghams spread to the favouring gale, drawing alow and aloft, soon reached their destination, SPEECHMAKING. The inner man having been suitably attended to, the evening was again devoted to an improvised musical and literary entertainment. At its olose the Rev. David Bruce, on behalf of the party, expressed his own and their thanks to Captain Colbeck for the treat he had afforded them by the excursion, as also for the handsome hospitality whioh had been extended, and whioh left nothing wanting or to be desired. He hoped it would not be the last reunion of the kind. Captain Colbeok, in acknowledging the compliment, said his object was not altogether an unselfish one. It was his desire to benefit the district in whioh he held an interest, and in which he resided. For years he had felt strongly on the question of railway extension north, and it occurred to him that if a number of Auckland business men could be induced to come up and see the Kaipara country for themselves, they would go away I with better and more enlarged ideas of the ! oharaoter of the district and its resources. Offing to the Government being short of funds the extension of the railway northwards might be somewhat delayed ; but he hoped when the fitting time came for urging its prosecution the Auckland business men present would remember their own personal experiences and impressions in looking upon the route by whioh it must go, and the settled populated districts which it must tap. In the meantime he hoped that it would not be the last excursion of the kind, and in carrying it out he had received the hearty and zealous co-operation of his sons, Messrs. Arthur and Frank Colbeck. Mr, John Ross (of Sargood, Kwen, and Co.), on behalf of the party, thanked those young gentlemen for the attention they had paid to the visitors and the thorough manner in which they had laid themselves out to minister to their oomfort and enjoyment. Three hearty cheers were then called for and given for Captain Colbeck and family. The singing of the world's national anthem, " Auld Lang Syne," brought the second day of the excursion to a close, and in a few minutes the excursionists, drowsy through the rambles of the day, were sleeping the sleep of the just. HOMEWARD BOUND. It was originally intended to have left Tokatapu on Monday morning early, to catch the midday Kaipara train, but it was found necessary to leave at noon on Sunday to reach Helensville in time for the early morning 6-30 train. On leaving the landing, three hearty oheers were given by those on board for Mr. Arthur Colbeck, who remained behind, Captain Colbeck and Mr. Frank Colbeok ooming on to Auokland; as also did Messrs. W. J. Smith, Ewing, and Puitfarcken. A stiff breeze was blowing, and on crossing the Heads the Eina was somewhat lively, but behaved herself well in the seaway. The trip up the Kaipara river was diversified by singing Moody and Sankey selections. A little above Kaukapakapa creek, the Eina gat aground on a mudbank, bat presently the persuasive strains of "The Old Ark's a-movering" proved too much for her, and she incontinently slid back into the channel, and oame on to Helensville wharf without further trouble. At a berth was lying the three-masted schooner Energy, whioh had arrived from Sydney that morning with Newcastle coal for the North River Steam Navigation Company. In coming up the river the Eina passed Judge Fenton'a boat, in whioh was Mr. Fenton himself enjoying a sail on the reaches of the river. On arrival at the Kaipara Hotel, Host Ford was satisfied that the visitors were "travellers," and as a Licensing Commissioner was of the number, everything was done en regie. Notwithstanding the unexpected arrival of the party and the short notice, all the guests were comfortably provided for and put up. On Monday morning they came on to Auokland by the half-past six train, greatly pleased with their visit, and most of them returning to their homes with a muoh better idea of the resources of the Eaipara distriot and of its facilities for settlement than that with which they started. As for Captain Colbeok and the members of his family they did their very beat to make the trip an enjoyable one to all, and in this they completely succeeded.