LADIES COLUMN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXIII, Issue 7824, 18 December 1886, Page 4 (Supplement)

LADIES COLUMN.

ART COSTUMES FOR THE BEAUTIES OP TWO CONTIN KNTS. Paris, October 1. Parts Is now resplendent in her brightest antumn attire. In the cool, oriep weather (warms of holiday makers are flocking home from seaside and mountain, and once more tall silk hate and formal frook coate reign supreme in the boulevards and the Champ* Elysces, while the Place de l'Opera is brilliant with hundreds of officers returning from the manoeuvres. They sip coffee on the balcony of Geueral Boulanger'a now famous military club, about which crowds gather in tho evening, shouting " Vive Bouianger!" and nowsboye are selling oouplete set to the music of old G»llio melodies, with the refrain, " Honntur an vaillant General!" FASHIONS FOR THK WINTER. I'ariaiiiimoH are agitated by the grave question, What shall be worn this winter ? I have consulted Worth, Duohe and Morln on tho subject of the fashions for this winter. They are to be richer than ever, but simple. Velvets, ooatly satin, furs and brocades will reign triumphant at balls and reoeptions. For outdoor wear the ridiculous tailor suits will bo gradually discarded. Cloth cotele and heavy silks will he the rule for walking continues. Mantles and shawls will be quiet in tone, but sumptuous. Historical styles will continue to hold the floor, preference being pi von to Charles X., Louia XIV., and Louis XV. as to periods.

Tlia fashionable colours will be the old aud faded tints whioh delighted our great-great-grandmothers. Pale heliotrope, salmon, pink, faint oraugo, puce, and the palest pistaohe green will all bo much worn, especially for house dresses and tea gowns. SOME WOKKS OF AUT. To-day oue of the oracles showed me his latest creations. "This," said he, "is destined to adorn one of the leaders of New York society." Looking, I saw an exquisite tea town of palo oreveita satin, embossed with floral devices in gold and silver. The front is open, showing some point d'Aleugon drapery, epangled with gold beads. Round the waist is a very broad orevette sash. The wholo gown is trimmed with crevotte, ostrich aud marabout feathonj. I next saw what is degcribed as a plain carriage drees, ordored by tho same lady. Imagine a dainty costume of the richest moss velvet, the skirt draped on one side with larjro folda of uncut velvet, all embroidered witli various shades <>f moss-coloured beads. Having dazzlud aio with this cJiefd veuvre, the oracle led mo to a palo yellow eatiu and tulle ball tiress, the front embroidered with silver, the train short, covered with yellow tuile striped with crepe, tho bodioa yellow, like the skirt, cut Dtaua fashion, one shoulder trimmed with silver, tho other with simple tuile. ThiH costume alao goes to New York. FOR BBIDKS AND OLD MAIDS. In tho same room the dieasuiaker's handmaidens were putting the finishing touch to a drees for a young American bride, composed of rioh white faille, draped in front and slashed open, showing large folds of white crepe. It is trimmed with orange blossoms, running wedgoways from top to bottom of tho skirt. The train is over two yards long. The bodice ie made high, with a garland of oiange blossoms crossing from shoulder to uhonlder. The indispensable veil is three yards long, of Brussels laco, trimmed with narrow flouncingeof Valenoiennes.and o»ught up In the middle of the skirt by orange blossoms.

Wealthy epinaters on "the down hill of life" might take a hint from this ball drees ordered by a lady of uncertain age in Fifth Avenue: — The dre»B is mado of pink damask, the front draped with black Uhantilly, caught up here and there with pink, red and yellow roses. Tho train is cut long, with a bodice of pink damask, open baok and front and trimmed with black lace. The sleeves are transparent. BIZABHE KA>C!ES. Imitation leopard skin jackets will be much run after this winter, especially by ladies not in society. Another moro delicate creation Iβ a' saore d'orge velvet mantle, trimmed with beetle wing embroidery, jet and black Cliantilly. Pompadour costumes will hold their own. There is little difference between this year's and last yoar'a materials ; however, the present are richer. One of the moat utriking historic revivals I saw was a Louis XIV. visiting or carriage drees of old gold satin waist and skirt, with b. very deep band, half a yard at least, of dark velours frapp?, covered with an antique design in red. blue, and old gold. Still more fascinating was an abeoluta Imitation of a Charles IX. Court dross—a long gown of pale shot moonshine satin, caught up very high on tho side, disclosing an under petticoat of Cachon velvet trimmed with a broad border of gold galloon. MRri. LANGTKY's WONDERS. Lastly, 1 was shown copies of two ravishing dresses and a carriage mantle made for Lily Langtry—the first a. luncheon dress, a bev/itching composition of pale plstache oloth f worn short, trimmed round the neck with sable, and down the front with dark brown passementerieornamente. Thenextwasawalkinj» dress of the palest pink cloth, trimmed with oxidised and steel pasiementerie, tied round the waitt by a faded bluo sash. The mantle was of heliotrope fancy velvet in a peculiar snaky desifjn, and was very long. Round the throat was a deep Louis XIII. gold embroidered collar. Cuffi to matoh completed tbia marvel.

HOW TO CARE F-)R THE COMPLEXION. Cleanliness is the sine qua non of beauty of the complexion, though it does not play a great part in the health of the skin. Water is serviceable to the Hkin in only moderate amounts, and at moderate temperature. Very cold or warm bathe, when used in excess, diminish the elasticity of the skin and its power of resistance to external irritants. Diatilled and so-called soft water are more suitable for washing and less irritating than hard water. The bard soda aoaps are usually preferable to tho soft potash soaps for toilet purposes. The quality of toaps depends upon the quality of their constituents and thoroughness of their saponification. Good soaps mutt not contain free alkali or any foreign irritating substance. The addition of moderate quanties of parfumea does not materially change tbe quality. Simple, finely-ground powders, each as starch, magnesia, etc., are entirely innocuous, and often act aa a useful protection against external irritants. Frequent application of alcohol (ae in bay rnm, Florida water, cologne spirits, etc.), abstracts the water of the skin, makes it dry and brittle, and impairs its nutrition. This is also trua of glycerine. All toilet washes containing alcohol to any considerable extent should be avoided. This ie true to a still greator extent of other additions to washes, auch as corrosive sublimate, mineral acids, oertaiu metallic salts, eto. Camphor acts merely as a bleaohing powder. This is also true of bension resin, sulphur flowers, and substances containing tannic acid. The use of aweet-smelling oils and fate should be employed to a greater extent than is now done for toilet purposes. Thii is particularly true with regard to the growth of the hair. The nutrition of the scalp should be increased by the rational application of fat (for example, in the form of oil baths by means of the application at night of a sponge soaked in oil upon the scalp) and the greater use of simple pomades. These should be applied to tho roots of the hair rather than the shafts. Substances should be avoided, or sparingly used, whioh abstract water from the skin and the roots of the hair.—Dr. Von Ziemssen, on Skin Diseases.

A singular contretemps occurred lately at All Saints' Church, l J rioryroad, South Lambeth. It appears that aome weeks back the necessary notice was given by a young couple residing in the dietriot for publication of the marriage, and, the uaual interval haviDg elapsed, the partien, with their friends, duly attended at the churoh with a view to the performance of the ceremony. it seem?, however, that the notice had been overlooked, and that the names had cot been read flUt before the congregation. Consequently the marriage could not take place, and the expectant pair had to go away dieappomted. They were informed that the person to whom notioewas given had been away on the Contt nent, and, while every regret was expressed, were told that a special license would bo obtained for them on the morrow, and that the ceremony should then be performed.