LADIES COLUMN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXIII, Issue 7656, 5 June 1886, Page 4 (Supplement)

LADIES COLUMN.

NEW MILLINERY. The latest imports of winter millinery received in Sydney from London and Paris contain some decided novelties. The contrasts and combination of colour and material are, if possible, more prominently marked than ever, and several models seem rather more adapted for wear in the Arctic regions than in the land of the Sunny South. But as the feminine temperament accommodates itself so readily to the caprices of fashion* and atmospheric changes are so differently felt that one lady wearing a lace robe will complain of. the heat, while her neighbour, gowned in velvet, is not too warm, there will probably bo numerous patrons for all styles. In bonnets one of the newest is in shape a high-crowned Princess, of deep grey velvet; a flit crown let in below the velvet surface is of plush, so exactly imitating silver fox fur that tho eye is deceived, and only the touch reveals the quality of the ■ material ; the edge of the front is bordered with the same plush. The inside lining is of plain velvet. The trimming is a bird of bright green and blue plumage, with orange wings and the feathery osprey rising above it; bows and strings of dove-coloured faille. A modified Olivia is in seal brown velvet, the front lined with drab beaver ; the lining covering the outer edge of the bonnet upright loops of dove-coloured faille trim the centre front, with a bird formed entirely of gold-tinted crystal beads placed on them ; strings of dove colour. With this bonnet is to be worn a brown velvet collarette, with a band of beaver and a bow of dove-coloured ribbon. A high-crowned Princess bonnet of grenat velvet has a coronet front of jet, the beads all threaded on wire are arranged in an effective design, backed by velvet; on the right side are bows 'of corail velvet, surmounted by a corail wing and osprey. A jet crown and front, with the brim and sides covered with thickly-drawn lace, plume of black feathers and cluster of deep orange roses, made a very good model. Another had the foundation in chintz straw, beige with a mixture of brown and red, the plait fully an inch wide ; in the front were upright loops of cuivro (copper-coloured) faille, with wing-shaped fold of velvet of the same colour, held in place by a golden buckle in the shape of a horseshoe, stretched in length. One bonnet of myrtle velvet has a coronet arranged on one side, terminating in a point in the centre,which, like the bonnet, is edged with large beads of jet; a cluster of feathers and loops of serpentine faille trim tho other half, and strings of serpentine completo the model. A pretty model, suitable only for a fete, is of beige and pale blue the full crown of ribbon less than half an inch in the two colours is plaited in squares of blue and beige alternately with plaid sections between ; the front is of beige straw set on in full folds, tho trimming a number of loops of faille ribbon in the two shades about an inch wide, with osprey sprays and double strings of the two colours. One pretty bonnet has a horseshoe crown in jet; the front is black lace over cardinal satin, cardinal ribbons and strings. Black velvet, with a border of cut jet beads, each the siza of a large marble, has a cluster of salmon feathers for trimming. HATS. A very distinguished hat, in shape a large flowerpot : the crown and sides of black lace over black silk, the brim —which is at front and sides only—of velvet; the trimming bows of two shades of red velvet and a spray of red velvet poppies, extending from the centre of the back to the crown, on which one poppy rests. Black lace is introduced among the flowers and bows; the front has no trimming. Modified cavalier and directoire hats are in plush and velvet of the new reds, blues, and browns. One toque in royal blue velvet has a full crown, the only trimming a brown bird with wings expanded. A cavalier hat in golden-brown plush has the brim raised on the left side, where a plume of darker brown feathers is fastened. This waves over the crown, and touches the brim on the right side. The crown has a broad band of satin and loops of the same shade in reversible ribbons, NOVELTIES. Fancy pins ara in great demand for millinery uses, and for evening wear pearls in all colours are mounted and very much used. The berthes on evening frocks are pinned hire and there, a dozen of various shapes being frequently used on one bodice. Ihe laco collarettes are also similarly fastened. Bunnets-3trings, bows, trimmings of all kinds, are secured by them, and often with a very pretty effect. For bonnets there are tortoiseahell pins fully nine inches long, with cut jet beads, like large loquats, for the head. Gold pins of the same length have wooden heads, like the old-fashioned handles to umbrellas or ■ walking sticks. Another kind of millinery ornament is just like blackberries. This is made not only in the reddish purple of tho ripe fruit, but in moonlight and drake's head tints. Jet horseshoes are sold separately for tho crowns of bonnets, lace being used underneath, and for bonnets and evening wear. Jet, which seemed to be declining, is more than ever to be seen in tho latest fashions. Veils, which are now almost universally worn, and mainly of white, have lately been rather difficult to get in the moat approved style. "Face nets," in various colours, beaded in gold, pearl, and with a woven spot—the lust an American variety, are now worn. They are about 10 inches wide, and while very light are also strong. Beige, white, cream, gold, and black are the principal shades. lIOSJEUT. Tbe"Mimi" is a new kind of milling, very finely pleated and well finished ; it is in white, cream, white with a coloured edge, and black with a white thread in the edge. Clasps in mother-o'-pearl, each larger than a crown-piece,with crescent and star in silver, with smaller sizes and buttons to correspond, are among the prettiest trimmings. A new shipment in hosiery contains some excellent and special qualities. For evening wear there are stockings of pure silk, plain colours with sandal fronts ; also embroidered in light and dark colours dark silk hose in all shades ; black, blue, and brown with horizontal stripes, some very narrow lines, others about tfce width of China ribbon, all of excellent quality. In this department there is a special selection of ladies' vests, low-necked, of pure silk woven in ribs ; these are in many colours ; and are of particular value for evening wear. TBUIMINGS. Pearl girr.p3, drops, pearl and silk pompons, and fringes are in many styles and all colours. Fancy buttons, a pearl medallion with a fan inside, pompons in jet, and passementerie ; beaded panels, tabliers, plastrons, collarettes, and cuff-bands in jet, steel grey, gold and white, are shown and very much worn ; and ornaments in silk gimp medallions, cords and tassels in all colours, are made for mantles and gowns. ! KNICKNACKS OF THE TOILET TABLE. Silk gloves for the evening were never so pretty and tastefully trimmed, and the most lovely shades in cream, pink, sky blue, gold and tan, have lace embroidered tops of the same hue. Kid gloves in very soft white, cream, and straw can be had either with self-coloured braid points or plush ones. Creatures of the most aggressive and repulsive character, such as wasps, flies, ; beetles, devil's darning needles, and lizards, i are to be stylish ornaments in jewellery the coming season. ; Ivory hairpins are very stylish for those ; who have brown or black hair. Those with blonde locks content themselves with shell i and amber pins. , Handkerchiefs with a single embroidered i edge in scallops are the latest and most , attractive thing. « Bonbons en surprise, which are given as favours at stylish dinner parties, hold a i hidden explosive, and, when freed, scatter their contents of candies or glace fruit in the most astounding manner. * Painting on leather is a new art occupation, but may or may not be satisfactory, as much depends upon the artistic ability, of the • worker. i Imari or Hixen porcelain is an antique ■ Japanese faience of most exquisite texture, i the enamels being laid over the glaze, giving , it a most unique and exquisite finish. It is I very rare and precious, and very few apecib mens of it are to be found outside of Japan. t Marabout trimming in day and evening ) colors has a fringe of three-inch feathers. The pad or cushion of curled hair is still i used in nearly all fine dresses, notwithstanding the objections to it on the score of 1 health. There is really nothing that gives such satisfactory results.