A CUPBOARD TO FIT IN A CORNER.

Northland Age, Volume VIII, Issue 10, 27 October 1911, Page 2

A CUPBOARD TO FIT IN A CORNER.

In making a corner cupboard as shown by Fig. 1, it is a good method to first set out a full-size plan of the front and sides as shown, to reduced scale, by Fig. 2 ; this will give the sizes of the materials, and will show also the construction of the cupboard. If the width of the front E F (Fig. 2) is 2ft. 9in., to make a right-angled cupboard the depth from A to D will be Ift 4£in. The triangle E D F having been produced the inside lines (marking the thickness of the stuff) are drawn parallel to them, as shown in Fig. 2. The return pieces at E and F may be square to the sides B and O, and are generally made equal in width to the width of the stile in the front framing to which the door is hung, G G (Fig.' 2). To construct the sides of the cupboard, prepare three stiles and four rails 4lin. wide, and one stile 3in. wide for the side B, all ljin. thick, and of the necessary lengths. Mortise, tenon,, and plough for the panel, and rebate out to form the tongue on the two front stiles of the sid’es as shown in Fig. 2. Frame the width of the front framing G G in a similar manner but perfectly square ; then glue up and stand the work aside to dry. The panels of the side framing having been prepared to the required size, these also may he glued up, cleaned off, and shot to their proper widths, and tongued. The stiles of the front framing will require to be bevelled to form the angle at G j to do this, set a bevel, keeping the stock to the

front horizontal line, and the blade to the extended line H (Fig. 2), and bevel the stiles accordingly. Next prepare the return pieces J, which should be about 2fin. wide and ploughed to receive the tongue on the stiles of the side framing ; these also must be bevelled and glued to the stiles of the front framing, and when dry, cleaned up to form the angle as shown at G. The front and sides may now be put together, and secured with screws through the stiles D and through the pieces K into J.

The number of shelves may be arranged according to requirements, and may be fixed on a fillet cut in between the stiles L and fixed to the panels (see Fig. 2). The shelves should be fin. thick, and when fitted can be screwed to the fillet. The top may be nailed on and cleaned off flush with the back of the framing and is grooved to receive the cornice ; this groove is made continuous from E to F (Fig. 2), and the moulding tongued into it as shown in Fig. 3, and when cut to the proper length and angle should he secured by means of a block fitted, glued, and screwed to the top and back of the cornice. Fig. 4 is a section of the mitre box. This must be made in the clear of the sides — that is, the inside must be made equal to the width . of the cornice. Thus, assuming that from the face of the framing M to the perpendicular line N (Fig. 3) is 2}in., the width of the inside of the box must be 2Jin. plus sin. for the tongue on the cornice. Therefore prepare the bottom 2|in. wide by lin. thick, and nail on the sides wide enough to take the moulding, as shown in Fig. 4 ; the sides must he kept parallel by means of strips nailed on the top, as shown at O in Fig. 6. Now with the same bevel and from the front sid'e of the box, mark the top edges square down the lines ; with a panel saw cut through the sides to the bottom, and put 'in the moulding as shown. Out- off the moulding, ai d when placed in position it will be perpendicular and of the required angle. Then cut the other piece off to the proper length and to the opposite angle, fix with blocks and plenty of glue as previously described, and when dry the return pieces can he fitted to the front .cornice, and fix.d with blocks and glue, The bottom rails and panel of the front are shown in Fig. 6. Fig. 6 is one-half of the angle bracket, the hack end of which is dovetailed at the angle, and should be lin. in thickness and 4in. or Sin. wide at P. This may be fixed with brass cups and v.s to a wel'-plugged wall. The bottom should be glued up to the accessary width, and allowed to project Ilia, in front of ; the framing, as shown in Fig. 2, I and a moulding worked on as i shown in Fig. 1. The moulding may he screwed through the bottom into the bottom rails of the front and side framing. I To make the doors, prepare the stiles and top rails 2in. wide by ljin. thick, and the bottom rails 3in. wide. An ovolo is or 'don the stiles and rails a shewn in Fig. 5, ther f re hen setting ou t this must be allowed for on the rails t« be scribed over the stiles. The

panels should be Jin. thick, sunk and bevelled, and a small hollow worked on the raised part as Bhown In Fig. 5. The cupboard maj? be made in deal, and stained and varnished, or made in pitch pine and varnished i if made in oak or mahogany, it should be French polished, or it may be made in pine ebonised and relieved with gold ; in either of the three last--1 named 1 cases the doors should be ; rebated for the panels instead of being ploughed, as It will be necessary to polish the panels before they are put in, and In this case a small bead is mitred into the rebate, and | fixed against the back of the panel by braiding Into the stiles and rails. The doors should' be'hung with brass butts, and a small neck bolt should be attached to one door, and bolted to the middle shelf; the other door should be fitted with a small lock with an ornamental brass escutcheon. When fixing the cupboard, screw through the bottom into the bracket, and on the back of the top rail at B and C (Fig. 2). Screw on a brass plate for fixing to the wall.