CALIFORNIA.

Nelson Examiner and New Zealand Chronicle, Volume IX, Issue 441, 17 August 1850, Page 100

CALIFORNIA.

[From the Sydney Herald, July 29.]

Notwithstanding all that we have published in the shape of lettets and extracts from the local journals in relation to California, it is interesting to find that the prominent position we have always taken in discouraging immigration to San Francisco, and the disappointments which we have so repeatedly mentioned as the fate of almost all gold -digger 8, is, in nearly every instance, confirmed by private letters which have been received. The following letter, which bears date, ' San Francisco, May 4th, is written by a gentleman who came to this colony sixteen or eighteen years since, and who, with his two sons, left Sydney to reap a share of the golden advantages which California appeared to offer. The writer is descriptive in his account of the country, and alludes to many things which have not yet been furnished in detail, and the letter, though lengthy, will well repay the perusal : — •

Having been to the Northern mines, worked at them, and returned, I now feel qualified to write you, since I can give you the result of my own experience and observation, both as to the interior, the city, and those I have visited during my journey. I will, for the sake of perspicuity, endeavour to methodize my communication under a few leading heads, namely : — Climate, Towns, Country (its aspects and productions), Mines, Laws, and General Remarks. This is a memorable day for this place. At break of day I heard what appeared to me the report of cannon from the harbour, but aB the reports continued long, and •at irregular intervals, I remained in doubt. I was not long in subpense; a neighbour's son came to my tentdoor and called out, " The city is on fire 1" I dressed, went out, and soon found the report too true. I found the Square on fire on two sides, and the largest and finest buildings in

California one mass of devouring element:

house after house ignited with surprising rapidity; and several structures I had admired for their neatness, were in a few minutes re* duced to a heap of ashes. The conflagration was grand ; the Square was filled with groups of people, and piles of furniture and goods of all kinds, mule-teams and horse-teams driving in all directions to remove property. The various groups depicted as various sensations ; some congratulating each other on their escape, others lamenting their loss, some panic- struck, others indifferent; some enjoying the scene, others crying. The amount of damage sustained has been very great, probably amounting to some two or three millions of dollars. All the buildings facing seven streets, except one brick house, were consumed, leaving a large blank in the heart of the city. Mr. Catton, of

Sydney, who has been burnt out, informed me there can be no doubt it was fired intentionally. The reports I heard in the morning were packages of gunpowder exploding in the various burning buildings. The morning was comparatively calm, or I think the whole city, and not unlikely the shipping, would have been all destroyed. This is the second fire on the same spot within a few months. Most of the large gambling houses are destroyed. The mayor has issued a proclamation since this account of mine was written, offering 5,000 dollars reward for the apprehension of the incendiary, and the Daily Pacific News estimates the destruction of property at 5,000,000 of dollars.

Climate. — This is the most important subject for consideration to the emigrant, and nothing can be worse to those who have been living for any long period in a mild and equable temperature, or in a country not subject to very sudden and severe changes. It might not injure a resident from Batavia, or one from New Orleans, or one from WalchereD. Neither might it affect some iron constitutions from the North; but it is merciless to about one- third of those who stop any length of time, even to the most robust. It is impossible it can be otherwise, from the nature of things ; and the testimony of many miners and others with whom 1 have conversed bears out the fact. Several have assured me that one-third of those who landed with them are now no more. What can be expected from a climate where, for example, in the day, from ten, a.m., to three, p.m., the heat is from 100' to 112' in the shade; and then, before evening, suddenly reduced, and at night so cold, that you can scarcely keep warm under a load of blankets ? Here, in the morning, a dense fog spreading over the city and harbour; lights are required in the public offices; from the ships the shore cannot be seen ; it penetrates every pore, and chills you through. Suddenly the sun darts upon you as the mass slowly passes over, and you are scorched with heat. A respectable American captain assured me, that on one occasion, when navigating his vessel from Sacramento city — where the thermometer stood at 145' in the sun— he entered, as he neared San Francisco, one of these' fog clouds — all bands were suddenly chilled, and could not, by any effort or additional clothing, regain their warmth. The result was, that in the morning erery man be had on board was taken ill with the ague. At t he mines, the temperature is more equal, and there are no fogs ; but there I was, during the day, obliged to dispense with my upper garment, whilst at night, with all my day-clothes on, three coverings of blankets, and a heavy counterpane, I could not sleep for the cold. It was a frost. Whilst at Maryevi'le, the American I have alluded to, who considered himself acclimatized, suffered severely under my own observation.. For several days previously it

had been very warm indeed: suddenly, the wind changed, and blew cold and strong from the Sierra Neveda and over the intermediate country, then under water. He went out for a walk, and returned after an absence of about two hours, laid up by an attack of ague; and I had an attack of diarrhoea. This disease attacks great numbers: I think none escape entirely. I attribute this to the sudden change. Dysentery is another disease which takes off many, and is, I believe, to be attributed to the great heat in summer at the mines. An egg can be cooked in the sand, at times, in three minutes — so I have been credibly informed. The great heat of the mines I attribute to radiation. The mines I have visited are situated on the bank of the river, or on its bed — a mass of stones brought down from the mountains by the torrents : on the outskirts of this mass there is a small plain of perhaps fifty acres, some not so much; on either side the mountains rise -like the sides of a basin. As soon as the sun rises, he pours his rays upon one side of this basin; all the intermediate space is soon rarified ; as his rays increase in power, the heated mass of rock reflects back the heat to the opposite mountains, and so on until all the walls of the basin become heated to a higher degree. As the sun approaches the zenith, the stones forming the bottom of the basin absorb the heat, and add their power to that already almost insupportable, and render it quite impossible for man to move abroad without danger. At night it is very cool, because the sun soon .quits the basin, its walls overtopping its rays, which still illuminate other parts. Again, all the country about Sacramento, and particularly on the San Joaquin, is fiat, and either marshy or subject to inundation. I have seen it covering the prairies as far as the eye could reach from an elevation of above a thousand feet. When this passes off, a miasma rises, and subjects those exposed to it to ague and fever. I have passed through two hundred miles of this kind of country with two gentlemen — one from New Orleans, and one who had visited Batavia — and was assured it resembled both in character and appearance. Such is the climate, so far as I have been able to collect from my own and other persons' experience and observation.

Towns. — Their commercial situations do not appear to have been selected with regard to the healthiness of the spot so much as importance. They rise with a rapidity unknown, perhaps, in almost any other part of the world. The streets are laid out at right angles to each other, and are named after the letters of the alphabet, or the aritmetical numerals. Thus we have A and B streets, No. - 1 and No. 2 streets. This, however, is not universal. There is also a space left along the bank of the river for the convenience of shipping, and generally a square. The houses are of all materials except stone; sun-dried bricks called adobi, brick, wood, zinc, iron, canvass, and wood. But almost all are of wood, and that of pine; or have wooden fronts and frames, and cotton and canvass roofs and walls. I have not seen twenty brick and adobi buildings in the country. Intermixed are numbers of tents. Many of the houses are very extensive edifices, and have a light and lively appearance. The fronts are in many instances very neat and ornamental. They are, however, from the nature of the timber, highly combustible. I can compare them to nothing but a collection of lucifer match-boxes, and as easily swept off by fire, as proved to demonstration this morning. I have now seen St. Francisco, Bonera, Martineee, New York, Sacramento, Fremont, Nicholas Plumas, Paine Eliza, Juba, and Marysville. The augmentation of putrescent animal matter, dead carcasses of mules, horses, horned cattle, &c, exceeds all I ever beheld, and would be deemed pestilential in almost any part of the world. You wili excuse detail — it would shock your modesty and stagger your credulity.

Country. — About San Francisco, and from thence to New York, it is mountainous, and abounds in interesting scenery. .From New York to Marysville, it is a flat marshy country, subject to inundation, but abounding in splendid prairies, affording fine pasturage for cattle during the spring and early summer months. Nothing can exceed the beauty and richness of some spots. I hare passed over a perfect carpet of the richest floweret for miles, and have seen thousands of acres of oats growing as regular and clean as if the result of art. This is all burnt up by the summer's sun, which leaves the forests alone verdant and pleasing to the eye. The oak, of which I have seen about six varieties, and the pine, of which I have seen five, are the prevailing timber. Grape vines abound on the banks of the Sacramento and other rivers I have been upon. I have also found the currant, gooseberry, plum, elder, nut, raspberry, blackberry, and chesnut. There is a plant of the bulbous kind, which is an excellent substitute for soap. It washeß well, as I cau attest from repeated trials. The flowers and herbs are too numerous for me to enter upon ; they are both rich in beauty and fragrance. Cattle and horses are plentiful and good.: the latter small, and the former equal to the average run of New South Wales, though not so high on the leg. Deer, elks, bears, buffaloes, wild cattle, antelopes, and sheep, fill up my lint; the latter are remarkably fat about the kidney, far surpassing any I ever before observed either in England or in the colonies of New South Wales or Van Dieooen's Land. Wild fowl are to be seen in countless numbers, partridges, geese, quail, and ducks, cranes, &c. Snakes appear numerous, many of which I have killed : the rattlesnake is the most formidable. Flies and mosquitoes are in great numbers. Excellent salmon and other fish are caught in the rivers. Vegetables of most kinds

can be obtained by cultivation, and there are several wild plants of use as esculents.

Mines. — I have described previously what these are like Where I have been ; I will, however, go a little more into particulars. The gold is found in a rich red Boil, not very tenacious, and sometimes on a very tenacious clay (upon its surface), where it has been deposited. It is distributed throughout the red soil ; sometimes it is found in the ravines between the interstices of the rock in the beds of rivers, and in the banks, which have at some antecedent period formed the bed of the stream : it is found of all sizes, varying from the minutest grain to lumps of twenty- five pounds, and considerably above; these large masses are never perfectly pure, being intermixed with quartz; one piece of eighty- six pounds has been found, but I presume not more than thirty pounds of pure gold was in the mass. I have seen several specimens of the sice of a man's fist, and some larger. That which I obtained was of the fine pure scale kind, which is considered the best quality. Any Australian settler who has ever crossed the bed of an Australian river, at what are termed the falls, where the water is shallow, and the adjoining land for two or three hundred yards, is composed of what is called shingle (that is, an immense bed of gravel, stones of all sizes and forms, cemented together by clay), will at once understand the nature of gold digging. It was in such a place I worked. The stones varied from half a ton to the minutest grain. They have to be removed with the pickaxe, iron bar, and spade. The large 6tones are stacked on one side, and when too large, left where they are found ; all the small stones, clay, &c, are then washed in a machine of very simple construction, called " a rocker," which is not unlike a child's cradle in form, and its motion is communicated in the same way. I have not time to describe the machine in detail. I and the gentlemen with whom I worked obtained half an ounce in three hours. The average of the mines where we worked is estimated at one ounce per day to each man. From the nature of the ground to be removed, it can be easily imagined the labour is heavy, but I presume it is not more severe than thousands and tens of thousands undergo in England for two shillings per day. All the gold except the lump is mixed ■with emery, from which it can be freed with little difficulty. In short, the whole operation is simple, and requires little or no mental effort to understand. Mercury is used where the gold is very minute, but with this addition the process is very simple. The mercury and gold are placed in a small portable -retort, and the former evaported, and re-collected, leaving the gold in a mass at the bottom.

The Laws. — At present the law administered here is that of the country previous to its conquest by America, viz., Mexican. It is prompt, severe, and immediately carried into execution. The people elect their chief officers from one of their own number, and he is not unfrequently the keeper of a store or restaurant. He is called the Alcalde. There is no appeal from his decision, even in case of "life and death/ He has been known to take -life with his own hand, where his authority was resisted. This power.; except<in the cities, where the Mexican law is adhered to) is arbitrary and absolute at the mines, and under such a state of things justice cannot be expected to hold «yen sway. It, however, answers here much, better than the protracted form 8 of our Courts, or even those of America. An honest man has not much to fear. I -question, if under our tardy legislative enactments, much more real injustice is not inflicted on the honest man. California does not as yet form an integral part of the Union, and no other laws than those respecting revenue, as observed in the States, are maintained by that power.

General Remarks. — Americans are very heavy in their exactions from foreigners. Their custom duties are very high, and are a perfect system of plunder, as far as my experience and observation permit .me to form an opinion. Justice is said to be blindfolded ; here I think Bhe has contrived to raise the bandage and keep one eye open — she can see a bribe, oppress an alien, and extort fees, without compunction. The communications between the capital and the mines are very high. The dollar here is about equivalent to a shilling in Sydney. All money transactions are carried on in dollars and their decimals, viz., cents, 100 of which make one dollar. Carriage to the mines varies from one dollar to ten cents. I paid 25 cents, or one shilling of our money, for the conveyance of ray luggage, &c, by land. Steam communication is very general, and conducted with regularity for a distance of about 250 mileß; the charge is 45 dollars ; meals on board 2 dollars each. Most persons find their own provisions, as the time is short, and they take their own blankets. Beds are charged extra. There is frequently only room to stand, owing to the crowded state of the vessel. Provision* are at all prices, varying according to supply and distance. One dollar per lb. is sometimes a standard price for every article sold by weight. There is however no fixed rule, all depends OH circumstances. Much of the meat is very bad, but in the regular butchers" shops it may be bad of very good quality; game is abundant in the city; there the usual charge for a dinner in one dollar fifty cents. The following are the present prices Of the goods named, as near &s I can obtain :— Dollars. New Zetland Pork, in tierces (very good) . 18 American Prime, that is, the entire wild hog, 2001bs 20 Ditto, prime mess, without head and feet, 2001bs 22 Ditto, mess, superior quality, 2001bs. . 25 Ditto, clean, with all bone takeu out, 2001bs. 36 Ditto, rump, the bam pieces cut up, 2001b*. 36

Fine flour, per lOOlbs 5 dollars. Hard bread very various; beef, 25 cents; butter, 1 dollar; cheese, 75 cents to 1 dollar, retail Cognac brandy, per case, in quantity 4* to 6 dollars ; claret, in case, 3* to 5 dollars; brandy in cask, of best quality. 90 cents to 1 dollar 20 cents, according to the size of package; rum ditto, 50 cents. This will be sufficient to give a general idea. Ships are at a nominal value; lumber previous to the fire not worth the expense of landing only; clothing plentiful and cheap, vegetables of all kinds scarce and dear. Changes ne re are wonderfully rapid, the Americans, in all things relating to commerce, being a speculative and energetic people.

Religion— though last, is not to me the least, but most important matter for consideration Here, all are free to do as they please; and although many carry on their work and trade, and the gambling-houses towards midnight are crowded, the major part of the people suspend their labour on the Sabbath-day. Pious men are making efforts, and various places of work-ship are opened. Out-door preaching and tract distribution are also observed.

Men of all nations are assembled here, with little exception. I have met with English, &cotch, Irish, French, Swedes, Norwegians, Aborigines of New South Wales, Native Australians, Americans from all parts of the Union, Dutch, Germans, Poles Jews, Chinese, New Zealanders, South Sea Islanders, Negroes, Creoles, Spaniards, Portuguese, Italians, Mexicans, Chileans, &c. I have much to tell you of the Americans, the manners and customs of the Aboriginal Indians, &c, which I must defer. I have also been obliged to omit all attempt at illustration of the geographical, geological, and political aspect of this part of the world, together with all places either seen or touched at on my voyage here.

There are one or two remarks, however, I must] not omit, because I hope they may influence others, so as to prevent them falling into my error in coming here. Gold is to be. had by working for, and in some instances in such quantities to make a fortunate finder a rich man at once. It is not for any prudent man to calculate upon a mere freak of nature (if I may use the expression). The question is, what can a man do possessed of common prudence and industry, and what may he calculate upon as the result! The result of my enquiry is, that the general average earnings at the mines for the year round is about seven dollars per day, and the expense of maintenance about two dollars. There is much loss of time from elemental causes to be taken into account; snow, rain, flood, and heat, all have their periods, during which the miner must remain idle. Then again there is an expensive and mostly an useless outfit, the expense of passage to and form to be placed to the debit side.; and when all has been fairly estimated and a Just balance struck, it will be found -that mining for gold is by no mean a so profitable as is generally supposed. I have said, as yet, nothing of the loss of comfort and risk of life,— this is indeed a large and weighty item to the debtor «de, one which, in my opinion, leaves a large amount which can never be repaid. Thousands of different opinions will, no doubt, he given, all emanating from the varied success of the narrator, the strength of his constitution, and the place worked in. Few will, I presume, draw general conclusions. Any man who has a comfortable home does wrong to quit it — he may meet with remunerative success, but the probability is, he will ever -repent his venture, because, if for no . other reason, he must sacrifice all domestic comfort, which to a man long used to enjoy it, is an evil of high magnitude; but to this let him add sickness, hard labour, being an alien, and all the discomfort of one of the worst climates under the sun, with death constantly staring him in the face from this cause, and I think he will conclude it would have been good for him had he never beard of California. Necessity alone keeps me here; when that necessity no longer exists, I will not stay a needless hour.

This picture of California requires no colouring on our part. The writer when he quitted Sydney left with sanguine expectations of success, and none of his hopes have been realised, and his anxiety to return is illustrative of the difficulties, disadvantages, and disappointments, which the larger proportion of emigrants have to encounter,.

"I have found that if the murders-, burglaries, robberies, riots, tumults, adulteries, rape*, and other enormities that have been committed during that time (twenty years), were divided into five parts, four of them have been the product of excessive drinking." — Sit Matthew Sale.

Robberies have been recently committed in London, by individuals entering shops, throwing pepper in the eyes of the party behind the counter, and running off with money or whatever valuable had been previously fixed upon.

A vegetarian eating-house was opened iv Manchester, lately, by a public dinner, at which Mr. Joseph Brotherton, M.P., presided.

A Socialist club, held at Le Mans, has been suppressed, and the publican at whose house the members held their meetings; has been fined lOOf.

Letters from the frontier of Italy, state that the Convent of St. Bernard is entirely blocked up with snow. The monks have been obliged to cut a subterraneous passage in order to extricate themselves.