The Home Garden

Nelson Evening Mail, Volume LXXIII, 27 October 1939, Page 3

The Home Garden

POPULAR FLOWERS Cinerarias.—Cinerarias are ideal plants either for pot culture or garden subjects, though in both cases they need protection from the sun, and if planted in the open ground protection is needed against damage by frosts. Plants may now be planted either in open ground or in pots. They prefer a soil in which leaf mould has been incorporated and this should be liberally mixed with the soil. Cinerarias look and do well planted in shrubberies, especially if in a position when they get a gentle breeze. For pot culture the young plants should be potted up into 3in. pots, transferring them to n size larger each month until a 6in. pot is used. When repotting, plant a little deeper each time. Cinerarias, while growing, send out surface roots, and these new roots should be about one inch under the soil when repotted. While excessive moisture will do harm, care must be exercised that the soil does not become dry. There are two varieties, “Stellata” (small flowered) and “Exhibition” (large flowered). The cineraria fly attacks the leaves, the young grub burying itself right into the leaves and often quite destroying them. It is easily found in the leaf as it leaves a track as it chews its way about. Look at the end of the track and the young grub is easily seen. Pinching the leaf with the lingers will kill the grub. A spraying of nicotine sulphate will control the caterpillar. Chrysanthemum.—The usual method of propagation is by cuttings taken from old plants in August or September. Select the outside growth which is usually stockier; on no account select long, straggly growth, or growth which is running up into flower. Reduce the cutting to about three or four inches in length, leaving about two inches of stem below the bottom leaves. Usually a few hair roots are left attached, though even these are not necessary for successful striking. Reduce the leaves to about two pairs and. before planting, dip the whole plant in a mixture of lime sulphur to prevent rust. Shade the cuttings for a few days to prevent wilting, as every encouragement must be given the young plants to become established. When planting out for garden effect the plants can be pinched back when about eight inches high to encourage branching. Cultivation for growing for exhibition will be fully explained in a special article. Chrysanthemums are surface-rooting plants and the hole in which they are to be planted should be made very firm by beating the soil down with a block of wood. After making it as hard as possible fill the hole with a not too rich soil, in which a handful of bone meal has been added. Firm the roots well and give a liberal watering. After a few days the soil will have settled about the roots, and the top soil may then be gently loosened to allow sun and air to aerate the soil. Stakes should be placed in position at planting time as if driven into the soil later many of the roots will be damaged. Cascade Chrysanthemums.—Considerable attention is being given to the cultivation of Cascade chrysanthemums. They have a graceful and decorative habit of growing downwards in flowing lines of bloom. Decorative Dahlias.—Many of the smaller dahlias are suitable subjects for table decoration, and two that are very popular are “Baby Royal” and “Bishop of Llandaff.’’ “Baby Royal” is only 2i inches across, but amongst several points which recommend it—besides the dainty colourings of salmon, rose and yellow—is its dwarf and compact growth. Its thin, wiry stems make it so serviceable for table decoration. “Bishop of Llandaff” is of the true bedding type, having glowing dark crimson flowers with only two rows of petals showing a dark centre. It has coppery coloured foliage, which gives the whole plant a very rich appearance. Sowing the More Expensive Seed. While every care should be exercised in sowing all seeds, the more expensive varieties are worth a little more attention, not only because their cost is greater but also because most of them have not the same hardy constitution as do the cheaper varieties. Aids to propagation are pots, seed pans, a fine sieve, a fine-rosed watering can, a good syringe, and a few minor things such as crocks, labels, etc. To these may be added a propagator and a garden frame. A propagator can be made from an ordinary box with sheets of glass from old picture frames, or from a pot with charcoal and fibre and covered’ with glass. Suitable soil is required, and generally, any good light soil to which a little sand is added will suffice. Decayed leaf-mould, sand and charcoal ;hould be handy for use when required. The first important thing to attend to is drainage, and a few crocks should be placed at the bottom of boxes, pots or pans. A layer of moss, well damped, is then placed over the crocks and a sprinkling of a few pieces of charcoal added to keep the soil sweet. Over this place an inch or so of well-decayed: leaf-mould. The pot, pan, or box is then filled to within half an inch of the top, the whole being made moderately firm by pressure, and gently watered by immersing the recepticle in water and allowing the liquid to soak up from the bottom. Excess water should be allowed to drain well away. The soil is now ready to receive the seeds and the depth to plant depends greatly on the size of the seed. Small seed like begonia needs only to be sprinkled on the soil and lightly pressed in. To ensure an even spread of seed it is advisable to mix a little clean sand with the seed and sow the soil thinly over the surface. Lightly cover the seeds with very fine soil, press firmly to contact the seeds and soil. After sowing, the seed receptacle should be covered with a sheet of glass to conserve moisture. A sheet of paper should then be placed on the glass until the young seedlings appear, when it should be immediately removed. The glass should be turned over each morning and when the seedlings show their first leaves (seed leaves) should be lifted at one end, gradually removing for a few hours each day. It is important that the soil in the pot is only half an inch from the top to prevent the plants being drawn up. The Vegetable Garden Plant out tomatoes and kumera plants. The side laterals of tomatoes should be pinched out at the main stem, but on no account remove any leaves from the main stem itself. The fruit sets on the stem midway between the leaves, and the young laterals push out where the leaves join the stem. Where any natural break occurs, that is, where the main stem divides itself into two main growths it is advisable to leave both growths. Give a light sprinkling of bone dust or superphosphate, or a mixture of half-and-half of each when the plants are established. Spray with Bordeaux as a preventive against blight. A sowing should be made of silver beet. This vegetable is a splendid standby, as it produces greens all the year round. Always Dull the leaves; do not cut.

Gardening Terms Explained Humus.—The term applied to decayed vegetation. Perennial.—Planst whose life exceeds one year and are perennial in their habits. They usually die down after flowering or are cut down by the frosts, but appear again each year. Manuring.—The returning to the soil materials required for the nutrition of plants. This may be done by the application of farm yard manure, decayed plant and animal life, digging in of green crops or by the application of fertilisers. Mulching.—This consists of spreading a coating of well-rotted manure or litter round the plant', to retain the natural humidity of the soil anc prevent or retard the evaporation of artificial watering. The soil should be well stirred with a fork or hoe before application. In hot, sandy districts mulching for summer crops should be considered indispensible. Peat.—Decayed vegetable matter, as is usually found in old swami land. Propagation of Plants. —The chief methods of propagation of plants are by seeds, cuttings, division, layering, bulbels, offsets, grafting, lea\ V (a; in gloxina), runners (as in strawberries), stem rooting (as in the castor oil plant), eyes (as in vines), and by pipings. Pricking Out.—The process of transplanting the seedlings as soon a: possible after they have made their first true leaf in addition to the see< leaves. Rotation of Crops.—The act of growing crops in different places so a to preserve the even fertility of the soil. Planting shallow-rooting plant where deep-rooting plants had previously been grown is known as “rota tion cropping.” Sterilising.—This term is applied to the treatment by hot water, stean or baking of soil, bulbs, etc., for the purpose of killing weeds, insects am diseases. Plants raised in sterilised soil are always much stronger an< healthier than those raised in ordinary soil.